Stitch type?

**scurtis** · 07-09-2020, 18:19

I am new to hammocking but not to DIY and sewing. My husband got a Kammock Mantis UL and after trying it out I bought supplies to make myself a hammock. I noticed that the Kammock uses a chain stitch instead of a regular stitch to make the channels at each end and that the channel in this hammock is weight bearing. Is there any advantage to doing it this way vs the method that is pinned in here? I have a coverstitch machine so I could easily do a chain stitch. I imagine the chain stitch was used because it offers better stretch... Also what is your preferred needle for sewing these materials. I bought HyperD and mesh for making a bug net. Thanks in advance for any advice!

**carmen2kayak** · 07-09-2020, 20:12

My HyperD hammocks are finished with a regular straight stitch. I use microtex needles and Mara 70 thread. No failures.

**hutzelbein** · 07-10-2020, 01:31

Maybe they think it looks nicer? Warbonnet, Dutch, Dream Hammock, Simply Light Designs, Hennessy Hammocks and actually all other netted hammocks I have seen are sewn with a simple straight stitch. I have sewn all my hammocks with a straight stitch as well, and never had any problems. I also use Microtex needles. Since Mara 70 is so big and can be a bit tough on the thinner fabrics, I only use it on the channel seams if I plan on pulling the suspension through. If I do whippings - most often the Warbonnet whip - I use Mara 100 aka Sew-all. It's easier to handle.

**Double E** · 07-10-2020, 04:08

I agree with what the others have said about the type of stitch used, but the needle question you will want a sharp point, not a ball end. I'm using a Schmetz 7010. It works well on the lightweight fabrics

**hutzelbein** · 07-10-2020, 04:20

Originally Posted by Double E

I agree with what the others have said about the type of stitch used, but the needle question you will want a sharp point, not a ball end. I'm using a Schmetz 7010. It works well on the lightweight fabrics

Afaik, Microtex is from Schmetz. Schmetz writes about Microtex:

This is a slim, acute point shape, useful for accurate piercing of densely woven and coated materials. It creates an exact seam appearance with straight stitches and helps to reduce seam puckering.

The following sewing needle has an acute round point: Microtex Needle

**XJ35S** · 07-10-2020, 10:24

Hmmmm. I've been using a 94/14 singer or schmetz.

**scurtis** · 07-10-2020, 11:28

Thank you for the help. Are most of you basically using the instructions for a gathered end hammock that are in the stickies or are you making the sewn seams weight bearing (I assume with 3 lines of stitching)? Is there any advantage to doing them in a way that is weight bearing vs the way it is done in those instructions? My supplies arrive today so I'm pretty excited!

**carmen2kayak** · 07-10-2020, 12:48

Three rows of stitching at the ends and one row for hemming the sides. Easy.Peasy.

WV · 07-10-2020, 13:05

I use Gutermann Tera 60 with a size 14 needle (lock-stitch, aka "straight stitch"). Mara is good, too. For heavy load areas of my bridge hammocks and straps I use Tera 40 with a 19 needle. Sometimes for light load sewing (quilts, etc.) I use Tera 80 with 14 or 11 needle. I have an ancient, tiny Wilcox and Gibbs chainstitch machine that I use for "by-guess-and-by-gosh" sewing, i. e. prototypes and weird shapes that I might want to rip out and start over. The ability to easily rip out a chainstitch seam (like opening a bag of dog food) is one of it's principal advantages. Another is not needing a bobbin. Scurtis, if you know of other advantages (like possibly withstanding stretch?), share them with us. There are great gaps in my education. I do know (ahem ... I am of the opinion that ...) for the channels of a gathered end hammock, a straight stitch with any good quality thread will do. I use 3 rows of stitching for channels and long stitch length.
------
Note: in my first version of this post I mistakenly used "lockstitch" in two places when I meant "chainstitch". Sorry for the confusion. It has been corrected above.

**hutzelbein** · 07-11-2020, 10:10

Originally Posted by scurtis

Is there any advantage to doing them in a way that is weight bearing vs the way it is done in those instructions?

With a channel end hammock, you get the most usable length out of a blank. But all the load is pretty much on the first channel seam. I had lighter fabric disintegrate at the seam. That's why don't make channel end hammocks out of fabric lighter than 40D, or very loosely woven heavier fabrics anymore.

With whipped hammocks, the load is transferred evenly to the fabric directly. Also, it's easier to exchange the suspension. But you loose quite a bit of fabric length. The Warbonnet whip uses the least amount of fabric of all whips, and if you cut and sew the blank straight, the whip is reliably reproducible. Also, the suspension cannot slip over the bunched up fabric.