@leiavola - the toggle method in TUH is somewhat similar to the square/reef knot but doesn't require access to a free end of either loop. From step one in that diagram you'd then pull both sides of the RH loop up through the LH and insert the toggle through the bight. (Hope I've described that correctly)
@ibgary - climbing was my main sport for 30 years and during that time I trusted my life to the bowline. I think the only knot I've tied more often is the one in my shoelaces
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