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  1. #11
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    @leiavola - the toggle method in TUH is somewhat similar to the square/reef knot but doesn't require access to a free end of either loop. From step one in that diagram you'd then pull both sides of the RH loop up through the LH and insert the toggle through the bight. (Hope I've described that correctly)

    @ibgary - climbing was my main sport for 30 years and during that time I trusted my life to the bowline. I think the only knot I've tied more often is the one in my shoelaces

  2. #12
    New Member stebesplace's Avatar
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    Note the toggle. This is off an old ENO but you can easily rig up a toggle and CL. Toggle is probably one of the best hardware methods in terms of simplicity and weight however, a little more challenging for adding things on (versus a carabiner). Can’t go wrong with soft shackles too.

    If however, you don’t plan to attach anything, I feel like a simple rope-to-rope connection would work just as well, provided you have a proper water break under the tarp area since no hardware means a single line and no breaks.

  3. #13
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    @cmc4free - I looked up EVO loops and most videos were about how to use them in place of continuous loops rather than how to make them. Then I realised it was basically a cross between a dog bone and a soft shackle so I made a dog bone but with small eyes as per the tacblades "improved" soft shackle video linked to earlier then did the overhand knot and threaded the loop through both eyes as per the "improvement" so that the knot is captured and can't roll off the end. Result - 2 x 8" EVO loops

    Actually one is 8" and the other 8.5" as I wasn't sure how much cord the knot would take. 40" of cord is enough to make the 8" version.

  4. #14
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    Rileyville VA
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    1.6 hyperD 2.2 hex 1.7 mountain
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    I attached the whoopies directly to the hammock and deleted the loop. It seemed simpler

  5. #15
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    There is that method

    My intent was to leave the hammock end alone if possible. Having the whoopie slings directly into the gathered end is fine for those situations where you need the whoopie sling but if the best pair of trees are too close then you can't use the whoopie sling so you are back to the CLs (You could have both CL and whoopie lark's footed to the hammock and just use whichever's best I suppose).

    Had a thought (dangerous I know ) this morning and I think it would work: EVO loop lark's footed/headed to the hammock; fixed loop of the whoopie sling pushed through the CL then back over the knot as per @cmc4free's suggestion. Now take a short loop of zing-it or similar and fit a prusik knot around both strands of the EVO CL, push the open loop of this through the fixed loop of the whoopie then back over the knot, snug down the prusik. The EVO-whoopie part is load bearing while the prusik acts as a lock to prevent the knot rolling. I think!

    Picture below. Amsteel EVO loop is black, the blue line is some climbing cord taking the place of the whoopie, prusik is red.

    lWHjFe5.jpg

  6. #16
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    If I'm understanding this correctly, the prusik really isn't required and will only make it harder to adjust the whoopie.

    What you'll find is that once you correctly engage the whoopie with the button knot on the Evo loop and put some weight on it, the Amsteel "takes a set" and pretty much tends itself. In actual practice you will find that it is very unlikely to release accidentally. If unsure, a simple glance can confirm that all is well, same as one might do when checking that a whoopie is properly seated on a MSH—and, by the way, it is FAR more likely to find a whoopie dislodged and resting on the toggle than it is to find an Evo/button disengaged, which is nigh impossible.
    Last edited by cmoulder; 06-18-2020 at 06:23.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  7. #17
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    An Evo Loop would work great and could be multi use around camp. A DWB Biner is an easy solution that doesn't add more than a few inches to each end of your suspension. Both of these allow you to disconnect a wet whoopie and store separately. For years I used a button knot tied in the end of fixed end of the whoopie, and dropped the CL over it, using a sliding blocked whipping knot to secure it. Look here... it's a ucr in dynaglide and amsteel, but the idea is the same.

    If you want to connect the two semi-permanently, the illustration above is the best option I know of. To release them, grab just one of the two loops and spread it open with a 'snap'. That will release the second loop so it is wrapped around the first kinda like a prussik and it will be pretty easy to untie from there.
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  8. #18
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    The prusik is only really cinched down once the whoopie has been adjusted. It's a bit like the collar on a locking biner.

    Like I said, just a thought. The problem is, that's one of my more sensible ones

  9. #19
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    Hi Bob, I use 'universal loops' double larks headed on to the ends of my hammock. This allows a 'through and over' soft link connection or if you don't feel safe with that or want to shorten the distance even more you can use the double larks head as a capture point for the knot like a soft shackle. I really like the little loops sticking up as a good visual indicator that my knots are where they should be, and also if you use straps, then the little loop makes an excellent little lifting handle which makes the beckett hitch really easy to untie no matter how tight it got. I recommend you watch Jeff Myers videos on YouTube. He has lots of examples and tutorials on how to make them. I use his tarp tie out line idea too and it's great. I make mine from 1.8mm dyneema Marlow throw line (basically like zingit) which is strong enough that I could press a tie out line into service as a suspension line if I needed to due to damage or loss etc. All my lines are basically the same idea so I can swap one for another or use two guy lines to make a split tarp ridge line if I needed to use the CRL as a huge long guy line for example. It seems to offer great versatility and redundancy. Here's a couple of close ups of the hammock end connection in case it's not clear. The yellow line is my 1.8mm dyneema hammock ridge line. DSC_1365.jpg
    DSC_1366.jpg
    DSC_1367.jpg

  10. #20
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    OK, this evening my lovely wife made up a hammock for me from the material that arrived last week. She's been doing sewing classes and they are her very expensive machines Today a couple of tree straps arrived (very quickly I might add, the expected delivery date was the 25th!)

    So the result was an end channel, gathered hammock 3.3m (11ft) long. I threaded the end channels with EVO loops and then used the technique from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ddmyrwAJX8 to connect straps and EVO loops - there isn't enough room between the trees in the garden to use whoopie slings with this hammock. I'm still in one piece!

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