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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    First off let me apologize for forgetting to welcome you to the group. There is no need to edit it, I have always been the kind of person that only looked at the pictures in the assembly instructions anyway.
    no apology needed, thank you for the welcome, and for the feedback. i'm the kind of person who thinks "if i can't figure it out, and must look at the pictures in the assembly instructions, you ****ed up on the design, it's too complicated" :P, i think there's a place in this world for us too. there should be. so i would like to make what i post at least tolerable to everybody, and hopefully useful to most who might want to use it.

    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    “73” ? Isn’t that one of those ham radio things

    nanok - Thank you for the post and video. When I post, there’s something about the initial edit box that masks all errors/typos. It’s only after I post that they glare ut from the page. Often I have to go over and over and over it - sometimes a day or two later - to get it correct. There is a limited number of days for editing.

    And you have to be careful with Auto-Correct. Very early one, before my computer was “trained” it would auto correct mini-biner to mini-boner - not that there is anything wrong with that. It made for some interesting posts.

    cougarmeat/K7NHB
    yeah, i know what you mean, the edit box is all the more evil when you're not a native speaker, i don't know why. i don't use any sort of autocorrect though, that's too smart for my confort (" i work with computers, and i don't like them" sort of thing), so i've missed the fun you describe. perhaps i should reconsider then.

    (nice to see there's still some of us dinosaurs around btw)

    73 de ok8fly

  2. #12
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    Hi Nanok,

    Thank you for the post!

    How did you tie the tending loop?
    I couldn't see very clearly from the video.

    Is it one big continuous loop that the guyline tail poses through (loose loop), or a fixed loop knot (only slightly bigger than guyline), or larks-headed to the guyline (more snug)?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by octagone View Post
    Hi Nanok,

    Thank you for the post!

    How did you tie the tending loop?
    I couldn't see very clearly from the video.

    Is it one big continuous loop that the guyline tail poses through (loose loop), or a fixed loop knot (only slightly bigger than guyline), or larks-headed to the guyline (more snug)?
    hey Octagone,

    it is a small loose loop, the larks head idea is problematic because it adds more friction (and when that tending loop is loaded, it is when you're unlocking the friction hitch, so expect the least friction). another possibility is to use the weird little softshackle i was developing (which i'm definitely not calling a multi shackle), i have a pic in that thread showing how i use it for tensioning the ridgeline, the tending loop in that case is the mid way capture loop for the button knot which seems to be working okay (except i'm not sure how it would hold up with heavy use, i guess i'll find out)

    there's multiple ways to make that tending loop, the basic idea to keep in mind is that the guy line needs to rest on it fully once you are pulling the "loose end" of it, and thus unload the VT completely, so you want it to be short/small enough to not pass the entry of the vt, when in tension, and as little friction as possible (i was actually planning to use small dyneema tending loops, for that reason). once you get its purpose, you can get as creative as you want regarding how to make it, depending on what you have handy and so on.

    hope it helps, would be glad to hear how you get on and if you found some good use for it

  4. #14
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Going back to the original goal — tarp tensioning system, no hardware, single handed — reminds me that you can also accomplish all this with a simple Midshipman's Hitch (slipped version) as long as you're using any cord that holds friction knots well, such as braided polyester.

    Once the tarp guy line is tied around the tree, just hook an index finger over the Midshipman's hitch and pull toward the tarp. Pull the tag end to release. Easy-peasy.

    I've been using this method with 2mm Glowire for a long time with no slippage. With a DCF tarp the ridge and guy lines are just as taut in the morning as when pitched the previous evening.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    Going back to the original goal — tarp tensioning system, no hardware, single handed — reminds me that you can also accomplish all this with a simple Midshipman's Hitch (slipped version) as long as you're using any cord that holds friction knots well, such as braided polyester.

    Once the tarp guy line is tied around the tree, just hook an index finger over the Midshipman's hitch and pull toward the tarp. Pull the tag end to release. Easy-peasy.

    I've been using this method with 2mm Glowire for a long time with no slippage. With a DCF tarp the ridge and guy lines are just as taut in the morning as when pitched the previous evening.
    it's true that this is workable, i guess this is where we all start. but this has a few issues in my experience:

    - depending on the line in use, it might not work so well (in the sense it might prove unreliable)
    - depending on the line again, it might be very far from one handed operation (too much friction/binding)
    - there will be friction on the object which is the anchor point, as the line needs to slide on that object for any adjustment. this can mean trouble depending on the object, and also means you can't have a fixed connection to the anchor point (it needs to be a "running" one)
    - it limits the minimum distance to half the length of the guyline
    - it means you have to retie the knots every time (i personally don't mind this one at all, but some people do, as i found to my shock)
    - tarp adjustments should be doable from under the tarp, once i staked out everything, i should not have to go out in the rain for that

    i set out to make something which is as easy to use as imaginable (you just pull on the string to tighten, grab the knot to loosen), easy to make and repair in the field, and requires no special hardware, or any knot knowledge to use once it is setup on the tarp. i'm not claiming it is required, hell, give me a piece of string long enough, and something to tie it to, that's all that's needed in the end. but some people like a bit more convenience than that. to be honest, after using this since i came up with it, to make sure it works reliably and is easy enough to use etc (field testing), i have to admit i like the ease of use and convenience.

  6. #16
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    Here is my tarp guylines tensioner and ridgeline tensioner .
    Thanks nanok for idea!
    I am using UHMWPE rope 1,8 mm and 1.2 mm
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shichimi View Post
    Here is my tarp guylines tensioner and ridgeline tensioner .
    Thanks nanok for idea!
    I am using UHMWPE rope 1,8 mm and 1.2 mm
    that's a very interesting solution, it took me a second to understand why you rigged it up like that: you're using the vt close to the tree as progress capture, and the one away from the tree for mechanical advantage. i do it a bit differently, so that the whole thing hangs on only one vt, and i can slide the other one freely (and even not use it at all if i decide mechanical advantage is not needed), but i guess that's the beauty of such rigging solutions: one can get as creative as they want.

    i posted some pic of it in the other thread, but i need to go out and make some proper pics finally, so something can actually be seen (edit: this is the one from the soft shackle thread, for now; the second VT goes on the ridge line farther towards the tarp, and can be used if needed. because of my rather unusual setup, i don't go around the tree with the ridgeline at all, so the VT is also a soft shackle of sorts, and just closes onto the tree strap in this picture, making setup quite a bit simpler)
    IMG_20200722_110210.jpg

    how is it working for you in uhmwpe? don't you find it slips a bit too easily?

    it's really cool to see an idea shared here put to further use, thanks for sharing this (now i am forced to go out and document what else i've been doing; another long post coming, and i'll blame you :P )
    Last edited by nanok; 08-06-2020 at 07:26.

  8. #18
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    here you can see how i attach the ridgeline to the treestraps, and how i use the two vt's (it is a lot clearer than in the pic above)


  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post

    how is it working for you in uhmwpe? don't you find it slips a bit too easily?
    Yes, when I use same diameter rope it slips easily,so for ridgeline and guylines I am using 1.8 mm and for VT I am using 1.4mm rope,it grips very good,slide when unloaded easy and not binding so much as prussiks.
    I am realy satisfied with VT guylines tensioner - this is my favorite method for now.
    But i do not like using VT as ridgeline tensioner because it takes more space for knots and sometimes It cannot be tied realy close to tree.As for now I am using Jeff Myers method with tactical togle for rodgeline tensioner.

    Thanks for Video! Very intresting method to tension tarp ridge line.
    I know you connect tarp and hammock on one suspension and I have a question - How do you move tarp with this setup when you need bring tarp more down to the ground(when raining with gusts of winds) or up high when weather is good ?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by shichimi View Post
    Yes, when I use same diameter rope it slips easily,so for ridgeline and guylines I am using 1.8 mm and for VT I am using 1.4mm rope,it grips very good,slide when unloaded easy and not binding so much as prussiks.
    interesting, i will have to try it in different diameters too, thanks for testing that. i'm glad it works for you, that's exactly what i like about it: holds well, doesn't bind at all, and is even easily adjustable under tension. prusik's are nice and compact, but a bit of a one-way street

    I am realy satisfied with VT guylines tensioner - this is my favorite method for now.
    But i do not like using VT as ridgeline tensioner because it takes more space for knots and sometimes It cannot be tied realy close to tree.As for now I am using Jeff Myers method with tactical togle for rodgeline tensioner.
    the toggle idea is also cool, but using a toggle is almost hardware, hence blasphemy. :P (joking aside, i do like toggles, i just need to source some nice material to make some out of, but for now i can do everything i want with knots, mostly replacing toggles with button knots -- almost)

    it's true it's not so compact, but i didn't have a problem with that so far, i usually like to pick trees which are "reasonably far apart", and if i have to use trees which are really close, it will be an exception, and i can easily tie a knot or something

    Thanks for Video! Very intresting method to tension tarp ridge line.
    I know you connect tarp and hammock on one suspension and I have a question - How do you move tarp with this setup when you need bring tarp more down to the ground(when raining with gusts of winds) or up high when weather is good ?
    i try to show it here, but it was already a bit too dark



    i will try to make a diagram, i hope today, anyway, i've been promising i do it for a while now. the basic idea is that the ridgeline. as it goes from the tree, can go anywhere from paralel to the ground, to paralel to the hammock suspension, as you desire depending on weather etc. you adjust this just by adjusting the guyline tensioners (if you are using an honest ridgeline which has some stretch, like i do, instead of dyneema), if you're using a dyneema ridgeline you will have to play out some slack on the ridgeline, so it can take the trapezoid shape you ask for, instead of straight, but with these vt tensioners it's very easy and quick to make these adjustments.this is what i described in the "levitating tarp" thread. i like this method as itsolves a few problems: i don't need to rig up an attachment point for the tarp alone, it shares it with the hammock, so i save time setting up, it protects the trees, it reduces the load on the ridgeline in storm mode (because now it is closer to a 30deg angle coming from the tree, so less tension needed to support the tarp), for the same reason it makes it more storm stable: with this angle, you need much more force on the tarp to produce the same up/down movement. so far i find it is the best method, the only disadvantage i can imagine is that at some point one might want to not attach to the same tree, to make some creative use of the tarp, but in that case you would improvise anyway.
    Last edited by nanok; 08-17-2020 at 04:11.

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