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Thread: Tall Tarp

  1. #1
    GilligansWorld's Avatar
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    Tall Tarp

    Anyone play around with a tall tarp before?

    Here are my thoughts; purchase a laser cut RSBTR winter tarp kit and add 5 yards of additional fabric to the order. Use the extra 5 yards as the ridge piece kinda like the peak on a roof. Fold this 5 yards over on itself length wise and then sew the precut panels to the ends of this additional fabric - Expanding each panel be like 23-24" for a full height of like 7 feet potentially.

    Anyhow if you have done it talk me through your build.

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    Last edited by GilligansWorld; 05-06-2020 at 19:20. Reason: spelling
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  2. #2
    Senior Member WalksIn2Trees's Avatar
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    Easy. I've never made one but

    it would be the same geometrically as an extra-wide tarp, with the difference being normal or skinnier width door triangles instead of wider doors.

    the issue with doing that of course is getting the ridge-line high enough on the tree.

    personally, I like mine that high already, with the side panels "normal length" and being 5'-7", I'll lean my bike against the trees and stand on the top tube to comfortably reach the strap height.

    and no loss of coverage, because with the weight and balance of the end-poles, the tarp dips down on the windward side during strong gusts... wish I'd tried the end poles years earlier.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Is this what you are describing? What do you do with the end flaps? the blue is 5 yards by 48"

    Capture.PNG

  4. #4
    GilligansWorld's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    Is this what you are describing? What do you do with the end flaps? the blue is 5 yards by 48"

    Capture.PNG
    Exactly my thoughts.

    I know that 5 yards is probably 2 more feet than I need, but a little extra fabric comes in pretty handy. My first kit I built I had to cut and hence had the extra fabric from rectangle it was cut down from. In this scenario since it is a laser cut kit I don't have extra fabric for either a stuff sack or what ever you might need.

    Anyway since you "see" my vision - help me trouble shoot this. I don't think there will be any issue with leakage as you can seam seal 2 seams the same as one.
    I think the advantage on this design is A) the height is standing level so you don't have to duck under the tarp as much - and as previously mentioned it will be a bit more difficult to set up in the tree but certainly not really necessary to go higher than arms length I would guess since the more angle at the bottom you create the shorter the overall height will be. B) since the ridge is a solid piece of fabric leakage should be pretty well eliminated unless you have pooling on the sides. C) you have a tarp that would truly service a side by side set up if you are camping with a significant other or someone who wants to be close.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member WalksIn2Trees's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GilligansWorld View Post
    Exactly my thoughts.

    I know that 5 yards is probably 2 more feet than I need, but a little extra fabric comes in pretty handy. My first kit I built I had to cut and hence had the extra fabric from rectangle it was cut down from. In this scenario since it is a laser cut kit I don't have extra fabric for either a stuff sack or what ever you might need.

    Anyway since you "see" my vision - help me trouble shoot this. I don't think there will be any issue with leakage as you can seam seal 2 seams the same as one.
    I think the advantage on this design is A) the height is standing level so you don't have to duck under the tarp as much - and as previously mentioned it will be a bit more difficult to set up in the tree but certainly not really necessary to go higher than arms length I would guess since the more angle at the bottom you create the shorter the overall height will be. B) since the ridge is a solid piece of fabric leakage should be pretty well eliminated unless you have pooling on the sides. C) you have a tarp that would truly service a side by side set up if you are camping with a significant other or someone who wants to be close.
    If I get time tomorrow, I'll edit in a drawing, adding to that image above

    it's just geometry based on the "door-way". if you don't intend to actually have doors, then use imaginary doors.

    let's say you're using graph paper like this for the planning. (ahhhh this takes me back to my technical drawing class in highschool)

    What you want is the view from the end, as it would be when set-up into it's in use configuration:

    • You already know you want your ridge-line at 7ft, so mark that with a point in the graph.
    • You know how wide your combined panels should be: set a compass to that length (in "graph" inches), draw an arc lightly using the ridge-line point as your center. If you're doing it using software, this should be done on a separate layer from the end drawing. so you can hide it later before printing. This arc represents all of the possible angles of the panels.
    • Mark a vertical guidelines for your stand-under zone next to the hammock, 2-3 feet to either side the ridge-line, and the tarp center» through your ridge-line point.
    • Mark your desired stand-under height along the stand-under guideline


    • Draw in your panel line from the ridge-line to the arc, where it intersects with the top of the stand-under mark.
    • Draw a horizontal guideline through the drip-edges of the tarp
    • This gives you the door triangles for straight across doors, which you'll add to panel end edges in the flat view.(only the perimeter is going to be laser cut)
    • For the pointy doors that I prefer, you have to make the triangles longer along the center-line, the amount by which can be determined in a side view by drawing the beak triangle... the hypotenuse of the beak is the center line between the doors in the end-view

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