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  1. #1
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    Indoor hang with 4 foot L-Track

    I needed a place to hang indoors for lounging, sleeping, and experimenting with different hammocks. I wanted to have a lot of vertical adjustability with the location of both anchor points. I settled on a wall hang model that does not use the existing wall studs and transfers all forces directly to the top plate and sole plate inside the wall.

    I decided to install a new pair of studs inside the room. Each side of the room got a pair of sandwiched 2x6’s that were bolted only to the top plate and sole plate of the wall. I attached a 4 foot long L-Track to the upper 4 feet of the new 2x6 stud sandwiches. The ceiling rafters run in-line with the hammock, so they act like the ridgepole, handling the compressive forces.

    Pics of final result:

    head full height.jpg foot half height.png upper closeup.png two point anchor.png spax l track hole closeup.png

    The one aspect I did not get a picture of is the backside of the board sandwich. That's where the 16 sandwiching screws are driven in.
    The boards are flat against the wall even if the shadows in the pics make it look otherwise. The silver anchors make no sound when getting in or out of the hammock or swinging.

    Parts
    Lumber: 2x6 Pine boards
    L-Track Manufacturer Page: USCC 48" L-Track- Black
    L-Track Amazon Page: US Cargo Control Black Powder Coated Aluminum L Track Tie Down System - 6 Piece Powersports Kit Includes 4 Foot L Track and Single Stud Fittings
    L-Track Anchor: Cargo Equipment Corp. L Track Double Stud Fitting
    These screws sandwich the two boards together: Spax #10 x 2-1/2 in. T-Star Drive Washer / Wafer Head Partial Thread Yellow Zinc Coated Cabinet Screw
    These screws fasten the L-Track to the board face: Spax #10 x 3 in. T-Star Drive Flat-Head Partial Thread Yellow Zinc Coated Multi-Material Screw
    These screws secure the board to the wall: 1/4 in. x 6 in. Torx Powerlag T-Star Drive Washer Head Yellow Zinc Coated Lag Screw

    Here are some CAD drawings I made to show how it all fits together:

    3d callouts.png 3d transparent.PNG side transparent.png baseboard clearance.png sketch top side.png sketch bottom side.png sketch powerlag spacing.pngRoom overview.PNG sandwich screws.jpg l track recessed hole.PNG

    Boards
    I marked out the locations for the 16 sandwiching screws (32 for the whole project).
    I glued the boards together (why not), clamped, and drove the 2.5" screws.
    I had some base board to clear, so I routed out the bottom 3 inches of the wall-face of the rear 2x6.
    I used spade bit to make shallow pockets for the Powerlag heads.

    Why didn't I just use the studs in my walls?
    • I don't trust them. I live in a tract built house that was stood up overnight. I wasn't even sure they were actually 2x4's until I removed an outlet to look inside. Some of the interior walls use 2x3 studs.
    • The studs were not where I needed them. I had to hang on a particular line to miss the corner of the bed on one side, and windowsill on the other. I could have bridged some studs with horizontal lumber on the wall to create the location I needed, but that would be an even bigger eyesore.

    Why did I use 2 sandwiched 2x6's instead of just 1 or some other lumber size?
    I considered using just 1 and thought it might flex too much with forces pulling on its wide face. I also considered going to buy a 4x4. I didn't for these reasons:
    • This was the peak of Covid-19 and I didn't want to go to the store right then.
    • I had the 6x6's collecting dust in the garage.
    • I liked the idea of the Powerlags flanking the L-Track and a 4x4 face would not be wide enough.

    Why did I run the Powerlags at a 15 degree angle?
    • Personal preference, mainly. When using them in real construction they have defined minimum distances from board ends so they don't tear through the tip of the board when under high load. I wanted to get a couple inches away from the board end instead of the <3/4" it would be if I drove straight into the center of the upper top plate. Plus, the washer head on the Powerlags might look strange so close to the tip of the board.

    L-Track
    This product is super impressive. Each semi-circular stop on the rail is a 1" increment. Each screw hole is 5" apart. It makes it super easy to calculate hammock height adjustments since this rail is basically a ruler.
    The rail is ridiculously strong. I got the 4 foot length so I would have a lot of adjustability for experimenting, as well as spreading the load across a lot of the board.

    L-Track Anchors
    You might notice that the L-Tracks I bought from Amazon came with 4 anchors that have a ring on them and attach to the L-Track at 1 point. I decided to get the 2-point anchors for insurance. I tested the 1-points and I think they would be totally fine. The CAD images of the L-Track are from a McMaster-Carr component, which has different hole spacing, so ignore that. I showed the closeup of the screw hole in the L-Track so you can see the countersunk shape.

    Screws
    I was very impressed with all of the Spax screws.
    • The 2.5" sandwiching screws went in like butter with no pilot holes. The washer heads drove in just past the board face so I was able to get the boards flush to the wall.
    • The 3" screws to secure the L-Track also went in like butter. The underside of the heads have an interesting texture which really grabs the work and resists unscrewing. I took the L-Track to the store with me to test fit different sizes of screw. The #10 screw was the sweet spot. I tried the #14, but the head of the screw stood just a little proud of the L-Track face, which might have interfered with sliding an anchor past that screw hole.
    • The 6" Powerlags are BEASTS. They are impressively engineered. They're only 1/4" shafts, but have the strength of a much bigger lag bolt. They truly do not require pilot holes to get the job done, but I found that drilling a 1/8" pilot hole with a bit like this helps keep the screw from wandering off-course in case it meets some resistance on its long journey through several layers of material.

    What would I do differently next time?
    • I'm not sure I'd bother with the 15 degree angle after seeing how it all performs in the end.
    • I'm not 100% sure the 2nd 2x6 is necessary.
    • Every 6" screw would get a pilot hole to make sure things drive straight.
    • I would have a spare pilot hole drill bit on hand like this one. I rushed and broke one.
    • I plan to get some finish boards and box these in so they look nice.

    What did this cost?
    • About $180 in materials. You could probably do it for less by:
    • Using fasteners that are not as fancy as Spax brand.
    • Shorter L-Track costs less.
    • Using Superstrut instead of L-Track.
    • Using the existing studs in your walls instead of buying more lumber.

    What does my wife think?
    • She wants me to add a second setup for her!
    Last edited by typoman; 05-02-2020 at 10:44.

  2. #2
    PappyAmos's Avatar
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    Excellent write up.
    Thanks!

  3. #3
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Wow! That's the way I'd do things if I wasn't so afraid of being perfect. Great write-up. Thanks. Since you plan to box them in with finish boards, do you think you could have used a single 2x6 instead of a sandwich, letting the finish boards contribute some stiffness?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Wow! That's the way I'd do things if I wasn't so afraid of being perfect. Great write-up. Thanks. Since you plan to box them in with finish boards, do you think you could have used a single 2x6 instead of a sandwich, letting the finish boards contribute some stiffness?
    I've been thinking on your question, and I'm just not sure. When I do the second setup for my wife, maybe I'll measure the flex of a single 2x6.

    One issue I considered with counting on finishing boards for stiffness is that they'd have to be thick enough to matter. With great looking lumber, thick = expensive. If you search Home Depot's site for 1x6 or 2x6 in the section "Home / Lumber & Composites / Boards, Planks & Panels / Appearance Boards & Planks" they cost WAY too much money. I'm not a woodworker, so I don't know where to source good stuff at a better price. I'm sure someone here does know. I was planning to finish with thin stuff.

    I also like the sandwich fasteners being driven in only from the back side so they stay hidden. The 2.5" sandwiching screws grab plenty of wood in the outer 2x6. A thinner finishing board would need to have the fasteners driven in through the front, so you'd see all 16 of them. This could definitely be done in an attractive way if you have the inclination.

    I briefly considered using metal bar stock to stiffen the 2x6. I could get route a channel on the back of the 2x6 to let in a plate of metal. I found sources for 1/8" thick stock in the 2" to 3" width range that are affordable. My engineering mind was attracted to the idea but it seemed like a hassle. If a single 2x6 flexes too much, maybe this is justifiable.

  5. #5
    Senior Member oldgringo's Avatar
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    There's no kill like overkill! I like it!
    Dave

    "Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton

  6. #6
    Senior Member Grunt's Avatar
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    I was contemplating doing this myself, but have put it off for now. I like some of the thought you've put into it. Over-engineered means it is built to last. When I get back to where I can do this, I am sure I will appreciate your guidelines and the frustration it will save me.
    Oooh, shiney! What does THIS button do?

  7. #7
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    Cool tips and tricks. Thanks for sharing!

  8. #8
    New Member
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    That is what is known as brownline or airplane seat track. When I worked in the aviation industry we would perform static and dynamic load testing on equipment that was attached to the aircraft. It is more than up to the task of holding up a couple of hammocks. The wall will give out long before the track and load bearing fittings. They key is to have the fasteners close enough together so that the track doesn't lift. Every 6-8 inches in the load zone is plenty. The single point quick release cargo ring is good for about 1500 lbs., the ring is the weak point. Great idea!

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