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Thread: Tensahedron

  1. #1
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    Tensahedron

    So I built this today. Thanks to Jeff-oh and Fivefreds for the advice. Since the pics I cut the legs down to 9ftish. Here is my question. I want to make this thing packable for traveling. I want to cut each section into 3 pieces and use a galvanized coupling to hold the sections together, so thier would be 2 couplings on each pole. Do you guys think this would make it to weak? The poles are 1 inch fence railing from Lowes. Thanks for the advice.
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  2. #2
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    Someone with more knowledge will chime in shortly
    But I'd not use that dutch clip or whomever clip
    Just loop it around the pole or a dog bone or similar


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  3. #3
    kamileon's Avatar
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    It depends on the strength of the couplings and there length. The couplings are going to be the weakest points in the stand. I believe others as well as myself have used couplings in the past and they have failed. What I have done, and a few others, is use two different diameter poles. For instance my poles are in three sections, 3/4 inch on the outside and 1 inch in the middle. I have a thread on here that details my build.


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  4. #4
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Super cool. I love the black pipe.

    The cutting the poles into 3 sections is not the issue. 1" poles are certainly strong enough. The method of joining them is important. If you are talking the 3-4" total length couplings from Home depot, they are certainly not adequate. 3"-4" overlap on each side of the joint is needed, and that depends on the how well the sleeve fits over the poles.

    Also, you do not want to hang your hammock strap from the poles. This puts a bending load in the system that has not been examined. The system is designed for the hammock to connect between the poles, so only a compression load is applied. A dogbone, soft-shackle or a contentious loop all work nicely. Then hang the hammock from that.

    Edit: at first I did not understand that last photo. What is the length of that galv. coupling? Also how much gap is there when it slips over the end on the pipe?

    Looks really good.
    Last edited by jeff-oh; 04-23-2020 at 07:09.

  5. #5
    Senior Member old4hats's Avatar
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    All the fence rail that I have seen are 1 3/8 inch of. If that’s what yours are a section of 1” steel conduit would fit pretty close inside.
    If you prepare for failure you will probably succeed.

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    ***Disclaimer: I'm not an engineer & you should never hang higher than you're willing to fall.***

    Looks good! If the galvanized connectors that you already have fit snugly and allow for 4" of overlap around each inserted pipe, then you should be fine.

    Everything should stay together fine under load, but if you ever have a "taco" event then the poles might come loose & become airborn projectiles (don't ask me how I know). You could drill through each joint & add a safety locking pin, or tap each side of the sleeve to accommodate a bolt to secure your poles.

    I've used "tubing splicer" connectors from www.tarps.com for the 1 3/8" chain link fence top rails, and they're pretty bomb proof. They come already tapped and with eye bolts. I used them for some A-frame/swing set style hammock stands before I started fiddling with tensahedron stands. On their website I see the same type of connectors for 1" inside diameter conduit/pipe, but it looks like they're out of stock until 04/28.

    If you do add pins or bolts to secure your connection points, then you might also want to pick up a dollar store foam pool noodle and cut it into pieces to slip over your joints, to protect your hammock fabric from abrasions. I learned that lesson the hard way, too.

    You'll get it dialed-in just the way you want it.
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  7. #7
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    So I measure the pipe sleeves and they are 6 inches long. That would be 3 inches of overlap for each section. Granted these couplings go on the outside of the main poles. They fit tight and there is no wiggle in them at all. When I do this I am going to put holes in them and put pins in to hold them while in use. What do you guys think?

  8. #8
    Senior Member P-Dub's Avatar
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    I'm also not an engineer, but I'd give it a try!

  9. #9
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    I’m a little puzzled because I see that eyebolt at the top. It’s my understanding that the poles - be they wood or metal - need to turn/twist somewhere along the setup. Maybe it’s just at the foot end? That’s why you see so many setups with a enough cable/cord/webbing connecting the poles together so there is enough freedom of movement. I can’t see what’s happening at the foot end so well, but they do cross much higher than most Tensa designs - not that it’s bad. If it works, it works.

    Maybe you set it up, allowing whatever rotation was necessary, and then drilled holes for fixed pieces - like the eyebolts.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  10. #10
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    I’m a little puzzled because I see that eyebolt at the top. It’s my understanding that the poles - be they wood or metal - need to turn/twist somewhere along the setup. Maybe it’s just at the foot end? That’s why you see so many setups with a enough cable/cord/webbing connecting the poles together so there is enough freedom of movement. I can’t see what’s happening at the foot end so well, but they do cross much higher than most Tensa designs - not that it’s bad. If it works, it works.

    Maybe you set it up, allowing whatever rotation was necessary, and then drilled holes for fixed pieces - like the eyebolts.
    The lower connection is a sheer lash and it allows the rotation. Once he cuts the poles to allow disassembly then he can use a bolted joint at the top and ground apexes. The rotation is done at the slip joint.



    Quote Originally Posted by zdubb View Post
    So I measure the pipe sleeves and they are 6 inches long. That would be 3 inches of overlap for each section. Granted these couplings go on the outside of the main poles. They fit tight and there is no wiggle in them at all. When I do this I am going to put holes in them and put pins in to hold them while in use. What do you guys think?
    I am an engineer and you will be fine if they fit tight. Just need to attach to one side.

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