Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    US- Ohio
    Hammock
    Dutch 12' Netless
    Tarp
    ProVenture Nylon
    Insulation
    HG Incubator
    Suspension
    Humming Bird style
    Posts
    1,023
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    It happens.

    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ntinuous-loops

    I've been making my own for some time w/locked brummel and opposite-side tucks with no issues.
    Just to clairify, the two CL failures referenced were not locked brummell CL people seem to be concerned about here, They were, in fact, straight spliced CL that came apart. This failure mode is why the locked brummell CL is recommended.

    Picture of the failed straight splice CL. (Note the line did not break, the splice came apart)
    Attachment 176819
    Last edited by jeff-oh; 02-26-2020 at 09:30.

  2. #12
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Ossining, NY
    Hammock
    DH Darien, SLD Tree Runner
    Tarp
    HG hex
    Insulation
    Timmermade, Revolt
    Suspension
    Kevlar, Lapp Hitch
    Posts
    4,912
    Images
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    Just to clairify, the two CL failures referenced were not locked brummell CL people seem to be concerned about here, They were, in fact, straight spliced CL that came apart. This failure mode is why the locked brummell CL is recommended.

    Picture of the failed straight splice CL. (Note the line did not break, the splice came apart)
    DB507126-AD48-4514-99C8-FC7105017FF7.jpg
    Indeed. Has anyone ever had a locked brummel CL fail?
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,454
    Chance are that a CL with a Locked Brummel done in 7/64" or 1/8" Amsteel isn't going to break. As we typically use CLs, even if the Locked Brummel is the weakest part of the loop, it is only subject to half of the load. There's plenty of margin the Amsteel in this case. As I said before, that certainly wouldn't be true with something like Dynaglide.

    I'd say that if someone had a straight splice in a CL come apart, he or she hadn't been paying enough attention.!Something like that is unlikely to happen spontaneously. And a lock stitch would have certainly prevented it.

  4. #14
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    US- Ohio
    Hammock
    Dutch 12' Netless
    Tarp
    ProVenture Nylon
    Insulation
    HG Incubator
    Suspension
    Humming Bird style
    Posts
    1,023
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    I'd say that if someone had a straight splice in a CL come apart, he or she hadn't been paying enough attention.!Something like that is unlikely to happen spontaneously. And a lock stitch would have certainly prevented it.
    I nearly had this happen to me on a whoopie sling. In my case and the cases presented as failed straight splices above, all were purchased products and the end user was not aware of the construction method or lack of lock stitches. I can only speak from athourty in my case. I purchased the product from a respected vendor here, Their work came apart. At the time I did not splice, nor did I know the nuisances of splicing amsteel. Because of posts here on HF.net and the great community, I learned that the straight splice could be a problem. That night I went home and inspected... sure enough the straight spliced fixed loop was barely hanging on. About 2" had pulled out and 2" of tappered threads remained buried. I count myself lucky, I was not dumped on the ground.

    Tom, you are very correct in that if someone has a straight splice CL or they want to make a straight splice CL then snugging it tight and a lock stitch will provide a good CL also. I would caution only that if you purchased a CL/whoopie/dogbone or whatever, inspect the buries and correct/add a lock stitch if needed. One of the beauties of the "Failed" CL's is they can easily be re spliced and good as new.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,454
    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    I nearly had this happen to me on a whoopie sling. In my case and the cases presented as failed straight splices above, all were purchased products and the end user was not aware of the construction method or lack of lock stitches. ...
    You make a good point. A lot of people who purchase hammock gear know little about how it is put together and don't even know to look for problems. I'm guessing that isn't true of most of the folks who participate here. Casual users are probably far less likely to inspect their gear than those who rely on it to get through a trip. But then again, how are you to know unless someone informs you, right?

    That's one of the beauties of HF: we teach/inform and learn from each other all the time.

  6. #16
    Senior Member GeneH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mound, MN
    Tarp
    Etowah 10x10
    Insulation
    NeoAirXtherm+Down
    Suspension
    None: grounded
    Posts
    160
    Where does the line get stitched to assist the bury if not using a locked brummel? At the crossover point or at the far ends of the bury?
    Sioux Hustler Trail 2020, Angleworm Trail, 2021, PowWow Trail clearing 2021, and any weekend overnight I can get.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    North Chelmsford, MA
    Hammock
    Big Guy Bridge
    Tarp
    CRO Winter Haven
    Insulation
    JRB UQ, HG TQ
    Suspension
    Beetle Buckle 15'
    Posts
    566
    OK, If the straight splice can "slip" and fall apart and the locked brummel is only usuing half the fibers to bear the load, how about two locked brummel loops spliced together to make the CL?
    "God never sends us anything we can't handle. Sometimes I wish He didn't trust me so much." - Mother Teresa.

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,454
    Quote Originally Posted by GeneH View Post
    Where does the line get stitched to assist the bury if not using a locked brummel? At the crossover point or at the far ends of the bury?
    I like to make the locking stitches between the buries and then bury the ends of the thread. I don't do any "crossover"; I just make the two buries as close to one another as possible.

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,454
    Quote Originally Posted by wbJohn View Post
    OK, If the straight splice can "slip" and fall apart and the locked brummel is only usuing half the fibers to bear the load, how about two locked brummel loops spliced together to make the CL?
    Can't visualize that.

  10. #20
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    US- Ohio
    Hammock
    Dutch 12' Netless
    Tarp
    ProVenture Nylon
    Insulation
    HG Incubator
    Suspension
    Humming Bird style
    Posts
    1,023
    Images
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by GeneH View Post
    Where does the line get stitched to assist the bury if not using a locked brummel? At the crossover point or at the far ends of the bury?
    A lock stitch is simple transverse stitch through both lines. I do a back and forth line stitch from about the beginning of the bury to where I start my taper on the bury line. And I probably overdo it. The lock stitch is there to prevent slippage of the bury when there is no load on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by wbJohn View Post
    OK, If the straight splice can "slip" and fall apart and the locked brummel is only usuing half the fibers to bear the load...
    I personally disagree with the statement that "Half" the fibers bear the load on a locked brummell. My examination of the locked brummell structure leaves me confident that all fibers of both sides are carrying load and are successfully transferring it across the structure. Other may not agree.

    Another answer is to make a doubled continuous loop. That is. a straight splice with buried tails that meet up 180* from the splice and the tapers cross. Google "L-36 Loops, Loups, and Loupes" for instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    That's one of the beauties of HF: we teach/inform and learn from each other all the time.

  • + New Posts
  • Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

    Similar Threads

    1. Ridgeline with continuous loop - larks head or loop
      By HesNot in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 6
      Last Post: 07-31-2020, 11:58
    2. adjustable knots for webbing with no loop to a continuous loop? biners?
      By lostear in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 19
      Last Post: 07-24-2014, 17:07
    3. UCR Continuous Loop?
      By paddlemule in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 03-25-2014, 07:52
    4. End loop (continuous loop) question
      By bennylt in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
      Replies: 10
      Last Post: 03-04-2014, 15:19
    5. Continuous Loop ?
      By SwinginIt in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 9
      Last Post: 02-10-2014, 22:11

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •