I hang my WBBB level and use a pillow because of cold problems. Works for me.
I hang my WBBB level and use a pillow because of cold problems. Works for me.
WV- will an underquilt which fits an ordinary gathered end hammock work on your People's Hammock? I'd be concerned about possible gaps causing cold spots. Making an underquilt with multiple contours sounds intimidating.
Slugbait, until this year I had only used contoured insulated hammocks (yup, complicated, but worth it) and un-insulated hammocks with flat, rectangular underquilts. I found with the PBHs that I needed six suspension points for the flat quilts - the four corners and the two sides at the knee ridge. Pulling the quilt up at the knee ridge was enough to prevent gaps between the hammock and the quilt. Tightening the corners prevented air infiltration along the edge. Most of the time I used a JrB No-Sniveller and adjusted the tension at the 4 corners. Because the 48" width of the quilt was greater than the width of the PBH at the knee ridge, I used a 3/32" bungee cord running from one side of the knee ridge over a ridge line and then down to the other side. This setup was my standard for testing many different prototypes of the PBH, and it adjusted well to different hammock sizes, but the bungee over the ridge line was a minor inconvenience when entering or exiting the hammock. Bear in mind, this quilt did not have elastic around the perimeter. I now know it would have worked even better if it had. When I recently modified my JrB quilts to make them the same shape as the PbH and added bungees around the edge they became much easier to adjust (and warmer). This experience leads me to guess that a standard GE-type underquilt could work quite well with a PBH. You'd need to identify the six suspension points, the 4 corners and the 2 sides. I assume the quilt already has loops at the corners. Try putting side loops 2/3 down from the head end, then attach the sides to the hammock (quilt hooks or mitten hooks?) Adjust the width, if necessary. (I cut my rectangular JrB quilts to match the width of my hammock.) Then experiment by adjusting the corners. The edge bungee should solve any problems, just as it does with a GE hammock.
I am fortunate to have one of WV’s PBH (insulated) I can say this hammock is an extremely comfortable bridge. I would attribute this partly to the ridge design under yours knees which totally eliminates knee hyper extension and just seems to put you in the right spot in the hammock.
I have used a couple of different GE under quilts stacked for colder weather. The one I have with 1/8 inch shock cord running the length of the quilt works best. For the other quilts with lighter 3/32 cord, I found I needed to attach suspension on the sides to seal.
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Thank you to WV and rog97 for your help- gives me a starting point.
WV Thank you – your PBH looks like what I need – banana back with knees raised. Can you please advise me more: You mention above, 'In this video the head end is only slightly elevated (look at the line of my back), but it can be raised more'. Can you explain more how to raise the head end? And the feet end? And how to get more banana back? I'm 5'9", would either the 76" or 85" versions fit OK? How long are the poles head end and foot end for the two sizes? Much appreciation for your help. Been sleeping in a hammock for 20 years because back injury, but always have to pile pillows under my legs. PBH looks like a solution.
Agreed with the bridge hammock suggestion in my WBRR I still use a knee pillow but I have trash knees and I set it level not head high but with a pillow it's super comfy.
WHAT MAP
You can hang with the head end higher in a PBH because the tendency of your torso to slide toward the foot end stops when your butt (actually your thighs) hit the knee ridge. The way to hang the head higher is simply to put your head end tree strap higher on the tree. Also, when setting up I start with a longer suspension line for the foot end so the hammock isn't perfectly centered between the trees. The curvature of the back (banana effect) is a function of the suspension angle. I strongly suggest using an adjustable ridge line when you are fine-tuning your hang at first, and be prepared to do a fair amount of experimenting. Once you determine the right suspension angle, the ridge line will lock it in, so next time you hang, you'll only be changing the head height and hammock distance to the ground as you adapt the main suspension line to different tree-to-tree distances. Use a strong enough cord for the ridgeline - at least Dynaglide, but Amsteel 7/64 is better - and forget twisting it 90 degrees. A structural ridge line is supposed to be taut.
Oldyellahide, at 5' 9" you need a longer hammock than I do. 84" might do, but as Just Bill mentions in another thread, the design of the end caps may effectively shorten the hammock by several inches. Try 90". You'll be glad you did. The ideal placement of the knee ridge depends on how long your legs are, relative to your torso. (People vary - a lot.) The extra length assures you'll slide into that sweet spot without your head or feet being crowded (and hence cold). Read everything Bill posted in that other thread; he explains things well and knows even more than he lets on. On spreader length: I use 80% of my fabric width. You can shorten the foot spreader to lower your feet. Lengthen the head spreader for a flatter position (no shoulder squeeze). Good luck!
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