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  1. #11
    New Member peter8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    However, I think the UCR's in this case are unnecessary. Looking at the load path, in the basic since you have a traditional marlin spike type suspension. From the tree to the hammock, you adjust the hang by where the knot is tied. The spike is put in and the hammock is hung. Thus, the load path is along the one solid line between the larks head and the tree. Now, in practical purposes, the rest of the line after the larks head is excess and not needed.

    Then comes the structural ridge line. The SRL in practical purposes is a solid length line that is adjusted to get the desired tick mark located at the toggle entrance. If you tied off the SLR tag tail end and did not untie you would have the same effect. The set up is done at this point. The load paths are complete. Then the tail end of the suspension line is buried in the SRL just to hold the unloaded tail end. No load is actually transferred between the ropes through the bury.


    Thank you for sharing, this is very innovative and interesting let us know how it works out.
    I agree with your load analysis and no need for the UCR if I was using a Marlin Spike. However, the Lark's Head requires tension on the line after the knot/toggle for it not to slip and hold. In this case the UCR transfers load from the lines attached to the trees and into the SRL providing the load/tension on the line after the toggle. To clarify the setup, the SRL section has two constrictors with one line from each tree going through them. The ends of the SRL forms the tails of the UCR with the tree lines buried in the constrictors, The load path goes from the tree line, around the toggle and down the continuing line from the tree into the UCR where it is transferred to the SRL (load is also split of the tree line at the toggle knot when the hammock loops are attached).

    A simpler set up would be a Marlin Spike as you described, but I see an advantage in using the Lark's Head and therefore accept the added complication for now. I could be wrong, but the Lark's Head looks to put less stress on Amsteel and distributes the force more on the toggle with two loops going around the toggle instead of one. The knot definitely releases easier - pulling the toggle out is about the same, but there is no kink that has to be pulled through as with the Marlin Spike. I also personally find it easier to position and adjust the Lark's Head over the Marlin Spike - that could be just down to lack of experience.

  2. #12
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Oct 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter8 View Post
    I also personally find it easier ...
    and that is all that really matters.

  3. #13
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Ossining, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    and that is all that really matters.
    How true this is. No matter the method, familiarity and frequent use result in quick deployment and adjustment.

    I would still like to see it all set up from start to finish, stuff sack to hanging with proper adjustment between two trees. It is something I've not seen before and I still don't quite grasp the need for the UCR. I can be dense sometimes!
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  4. #14
    New Member peter8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    I would still like to see it all set up from start to finish, stuff sack to hanging with proper adjustment between two trees. It is something I've not seen before and I still don't quite grasp the need for the UCR. I can be dense sometimes!
    Well I have not got to set it up outside yet. I will do a complete hang video when I do. For the moment I have an updated video showing my indoor hang and I hope a better explanation of how it works and why the UCR is needed. I have now slept in it for two consecutive nights with no slippage or determinable sag.



  5. #15
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Thanks for the thorough demo!

    I'm not likely to change from my simple strap-to-CL setup but it's always great to see on display the thought and creativity that go into finding new ways to do things. Given the myriad options, hammocking is certainly a target-rich environment.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  6. #16
    New Member peter8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter8 View Post
    I joined the Hammock Forums a little while ago and have been learning all I can so that I will be prepared for my next, and first hammock, backpacking venture in the Spring. I want to thank everyone here for passing on their knowledge and experience.

    As I get older I am finding sleeping on the ground, even on a good mat, too hard and uncomfortable. However, the last thing I want is to hit that hard ground from a height! I have therefore spent quite a bit of time researching the options and came up with a set of requirements:

    1. Safe and reliable
    2. Easily set up and adjusted
    3. Capable of covering small and wide spans
    4. Incorporates a structural ridge line
    5. Lightweight
    6. Low cost


    No surprise there are a lot of suspension systems that meet those requirements and everyone has their own favorite. So just because I liked the single ridge line concept and thought that the Whoopie and UCR constrictors were an intriguing, captivating and gripping concepts I therefore decided to try and use them in my suspension. I did however want to find a way that eliminated the small span issue, one of my requirements. Having tried out many different options, with various degrees of success and failure, I have a concept for a suspension system that meets my requirements. Watch the video and let me know what you think.
    Well it was a fun project and I learnt a lot, but at the end of the day I have followed the KISS principle and have settled on 1" UHMWPE webbing, Becket hitched to the continuous loop on the gathered ends of the hammock, which has a 7/64" Amsteel Blue structural ridge line. Reliable, Quick and easy to adjust, 15' straps gives me a small to wide span and the 15' of webbing is not much more cost or weight than a smaller tree strap and 7/64" Amsteel Blue and no costly hardware.

    I have one small innovation still in use, which is the type of continuous loop I use on the gathered ends of the hammock. This is a simple conventionally constructed continuous loop (double brummel with two inch buried tails) with a "twisted" stopper knot splitting the loop into two, providing a soft shackle functionality, and/or a easy release function for a Becket hitch or Prusik knot. You make this easy release loop by twisting the loop, along the axis of the loop with the double brmmel at the point, until it starts to knot up and then while keeping the twist in place you make a stopper knot at the point where the feathering of the bury on the loop starts. The twist in the knot provides for a better ball type knot for the shackle and the thicker bury section help keep the knot in place which in turn captures the feathered end within the bury itself. The thicker smaller loop is easy to grab and is not mistaken for the working loop section.

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