Tarp Lash-it/Zing-it UCR Revisit/Updates

[Yarome]

I know there are a few folks that are using zing-it/lash-it UCR's for their tarp ridge suspensions. Most of what I read were new builds and just curious if those using them might chime in as a revisit on how they've been holding up. Bury lengths in use and hold? Are they till in use? Abandoned for alternative methods?

Any specific "con's" you've run into?

I've been slowly converted to UCR's and toying with the idea for a recent winter tarp I picked up.

Current setups are just a hook on the tree side and nama clawing the tarp rings. Works beautifully, but it's always fun to play around with alternative methods.

[GilligansWorld]

I'll throw my two cents in - It's indistinguishable between 7/64th - No issues No problems It's just a smaller piece of cordage. I'm not sitting in front of a computer right now so I don't have this exactly in front of me but I seem to recall a five-time safety factor of around 175lbs on a 2.2 lash-it.
after thinking about it what I recommend that you do is look up what the minimum breaking strength was - divide that number by five and you have your five times safety rating.
I would recommend visiting the Samson rope website for berry lengths. I'm sure you're going to find information here but I would not want to miss quote you. Always bear in mind the smaller the cordage the more berry you need. on Sampson's website they describe a feed as 20 times the diameter of the rope you're working with. Anything that's weight-bearing I believe needs to have around 3 times a fid of Bury.
again I'm not in front of my computer so don't quote me but go check out Samson ropes website they'll have all that information there for you.

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[Yarome]

I would recommend visiting the Samson rope website for berry lengths.

Yeah... unfortunately, Samson considers zing-it/lash-it to be "non-spliceable" so you really don't get into their bury guidelines until you're talking 1/2" 12-strand line that isn't going to be directly applicable to zing-it/lash-it. It seems that using 7/64 and 1/8th inch like we do... we're using it wrong.

At least that's I'll I've ever found on their resource pages.

[GilligansWorld]

web site.JPGsplicinglengths.jpg
Merry Christmas - Turns out I was probably right. 20 x diameter = fid and bury length is about 3 times a fid. So for 2.2 mm lash-it it is .0866142 inches in diameter = 1.75" for fid approx. So bury on this is 5.25" which is a bit of overkill by like .25" but hey who cares right. Most of the sites I have found list this as "average breaking strength" now so something must have happened but it is listed at 650 LBs. Five times safety on that would work out to 130 LBS. Not quite what I originally thought. I weigh 150 lbs typically and I have never had any issues.

[cmoulder]

Yeah... unfortunately, Samson considers zing-it/lash-it to be "non-spliceable" so you really don't get into their bury guidelines until you're talking 1/2" 12-strand line that isn't going to be directly applicable to zing-it/lash-it. It seems that using 7/64 and 1/8th inch like we do... we're using it wrong.

At least that's I'll I've ever found on their resource pages.

Zing-it is quite spliceable... just need some smaller florist wire. I made some itty-bitty whoopies with eye splices on the end to make prusiks, combined with 1.5mm shock cord, for my tarp door closures. For non-critical applications like RL or guy lines, it seems to me that a 3-4" bury is plenty.

[MikekiM]

Weighing in.. haven't seen any chatter about the mini ucrs since Sqidmark and I got them ironed out a few years ago.

I still use them on all of my RL's in place of a prussik (I hate prussiks). So I have three pairs in service at present. Two are on split RL and one set is on a CRL. And, these are the originals I made years ago. All are working fine. Plus, since I have most of Sqidmarks gear, I have his first set of ucrs as well. I used them this past weekend.

The first few we made used a spliced eye with a sliding blocked whipping knot that captured a diamond knot fixed to the tarp ridge hardware. The idea was to make them easily removable. The downside was the splices bury added a few inches to the minimum distance between trees, since you can't start the ucr until you are past the splices bury. I later switched to a Double Dragon to attach to the ridge hardware, which gave me back about two inches per side in exchange for the loss of modularity. Worthwhile IMHO.

My oldest set are looking a looking a little elongated at the bury exit but are still perfectly functional. At some point I replaced the whipping at the entrance of the bury.. not sure why I did that. I can't remember.

I believe all of my burys are a 2.5" finished length. All have the double overhand knot and whipping at the entrance to the bury