Tarp material and ridge seam

[HMLCK]

I'm thinking of making a new tarp. My current DIY hex tarp is made of RBTR 1.1 silpoly. I used a flat felled ridgeline seam, and sealed it on the inside with windshield silicon. I also used that silicon to bond on the reinforcement patches. The tarp's been pitched less than 5 times, and got rained on hard last weekend. When I woke up from the rain, I got some misting on my face. Not enough to wet anything through, but enough to make me think.

I use an 11 foot gathered end hammock, and want to cover the ridge, plus doors. I've been looking at the DIY gear winter tarp as a starting pattern. I think I'll make something like that with a 10 foot ridgeline.

I'm leaning toward PU4000 material. I want to bond reinforcement patches, as that worked well on my current tarp. Since the poly coating should be put on the side facing the ground, I assume I should use seamgrip to bond the patches to the underside? That way I can sew grosgrain to the patch, then bond the patch onto the tarp, and finally sew the rolled hem over all of it. This should give a well attached patch and tieout with no extra holes in the tarp. Those of you who have made tarps from the PU4000, how did you handle your tie outs and reinforcements?

I've also been thinking about the ridgeline seam. I want to try the standing seam with the grosgrain reinforcement. I want to try this with the spider web from Dutchwear instead of regular grosgrain. Has anyone tried this material for that use?

[hutzelbein]

Why use spider webbing for the ridgeline when simple polyester tape works perfectly well? You certainly don't need the extra strength. The weakest point is the tarp fabric anyway.

[HMLCK]

Absolutely true, the strength isn't required, and the material is overkill for the application. I was thinking to save weight over grosgrain. What is the polyester tape you suggest, and where is it sold?

[hutzelbein]

I asked this question on this forum and was told that single faced polyester satin tape is what Warbonnet uses on their tarps. I haven't weighed it, but it should not weigh more than spider webbing.

[HMLCK]

Dank dir, Hutzelbein. I did see that thread when I was initially searching, but still wasn't sure about that material. I googled "polyester satin tape" and I think I've good to go with that. Did you extend the tape and put a line loc or D ring right on it, or go with something else to the ridge tieouts?

Hopefully some will chime in with input on bonding reinforcements to the PU4000 material.

[hutzelbein]

Dank dir, Hutzelbein. I did see that thread when I was initially searching, but still wasn't sure about that material. I googled "polyester satin tape" and I think I've good to go with that.

I got some single faced satin tape off Aliexpress because I couldn't find it anywhere in Germany. It looks pretty much like the tape Warbonnet uses, so I don't think it matters which brand you get. But in the other thread, the poster who suggested the tape said that Offrey apparently is easy to find in the US.

Did you extend the tape and put a line loc or D ring right on it, or go with something else to the ridge tieouts?

I have to admit that I haven't yet built the tarp because I simply couldn't find a space large enough to lay out, mark and cut the fabric. But I did use the satin tape one several of my experimental DIY hammocks to reinforce areas that see a lot of stress and it worked really well. When I finally find a suitable floor space to get started on the tarp, I will copy the ridgeline construction Warbonnet uses because it has always worked very well for me. That means I will cut the tape long enough to extend about 2.5" beyond the edge of the tarp, thread a strong split keychain ring on, fold the end back and sew it closed to the ridgeline. But you certainly could use line locs or D rings as well. If I wanted to avoid titanium hardware, I would prefer slide locks, though. They are simple to use and don't budge.

[Countrybois]

I'm thinking of making a new tarp. My current DIY hex tarp is made of RBTR 1.1 silpoly. I used a flat felled ridgeline seam, and sealed it on the inside with windshield silicon. I also used that silicon to bond on the reinforcement patches. The tarp's been pitched less than 5 times, and got rained on hard last weekend. When I woke up from the rain, I got some misting on my face. Not enough to wet anything through, but enough to make me think.

I use an 11 foot gathered end hammock, and want to cover the ridge, plus doors. I've been looking at the DIY gear winter tarp as a starting pattern. I think I'll make something like that with a 10 foot ridgeline.

I'm leaning toward PU4000 material. I want to bond reinforcement patches, as that worked well on my current tarp. Since the poly coating should be put on the side facing the ground, I assume I should use seamgrip to bond the patches to the underside? That way I can sew grosgrain to the patch, then bond the patch onto the tarp, and finally sew the rolled hem over all of it. This should give a well attached patch and tieout with no extra holes in the tarp. Those of you who have made tarps from the PU4000, how did you handle your tie outs and reinforcements?

I've also been thinking about the ridgeline seam. I want to try the standing seam with the grosgrain reinforcement. I want to try this with the spider web from Dutchwear instead of regular grosgrain. Has anyone tried this material for that use?

I don't use reinforcement panels. I use a method like Warbonnet uses on their tarps. Has held up great.

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[streamline]

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Have you thought about eliminating the ridgeline and going with this sort of design?

[infrastellar]

lets go back to your misty face in the morning... I think at 99% it has nothing to do with your tarp and its quality

[Equalizer]

I'm not sure if you think the misting is solely from the fabric or from the seam.

I haven't used the fabric that you are asking about, but since you want to change fabrics im guessing that you suspect that the misting is coming from that. I personally would order an extra yard to experiment on. See if it works on scrap first. Some solvents will weaken or melt certain synthetics.
What I am about to say hasn't been used by anyone that im aware of so I will publish data when I.put it to the test next spring.

Here's something that I plan to use for seam sealant on my next tarp. IMHO, if you are building from scratch, I'd add a thin smear to both sides, then sew. This is theoretical so far since I haven't done the tarp yet. I just ordered fabric and it hasn't come in. I've used the adhesive on gutters and it bonds very well as long as the surface is clean. I will find out how well it bonds to Silicon or fluoride based coated fabric when I'm able. If it sticks well, I'm guessing that it will last. I'm a fan of silicon adhesives, but this is rubber based.

Pluses:
It's tougher than silicon sealants. Not as much as Goop.
Its very flexible. More so than Goop.
Shear strength is amazing.
Peel strength is surprising. I have no measurements, but it takes a LOT of effort to peel it off of aluminum surfaces.
The only thing so far that ive noted comparing it with silicon and Eclectic Products Amazing Goop is:
1. Goop is tougher and slightly flexible. It works temporarily on hiking stick tips and concrete....a few miles.
While the lexel is too soft and is not applicable for tips.
2. Lexel exceeds silicon caulking in about every area except neat application. I'm still trying to decide whether or not to use it for tub seams. Silicon works well for beads. The lexel goes on uneven and gets worse as you try to smooth out your beads.

Its much stickier and seems much more durable. Drawback is that its so sticky that its hard to work with...very messy.

https://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

I bought mine for $10 /big tube at lowes.
If I can find a recipe for this liquid rubber like the silicon caulking...ie.amount of proper solvent, I'd like to use it as a tarp coating.

Hope this helps.