Absolutely - step #3 is the finished product with slight variation in hardware. Instead of feeding the line though the D-Ring, I connect one end with a mini-biner and also go through that mini-biner to the other end of the tarp. I go through a mini-biner at that opposite end, around the tree and back to a figure-9.
I put a mini-biner and figure-9 on each end so I don't have to sort that out before I start. I use a split ring to hold the figure-9 on the d-ring so the split ring will "break" first if excessive force is applied. I use the mini-biner because I got tired of threading the ridge line through the d-rings.
The setup seems to provide enough support for a taut tarp while having enough "give" that forces aren't directly solely to the tarp ridge line. And, for adjustment I don't have to move one end and then the other.
The downside was having diffultly using snake skins. There was so much taper at the snake skin ends, there was nothing to stick out and attach the ridge line to. So I made dog bones (about 8 inches) for each end. They hang out of the skin and that give it something to side up on.
It does take extra line compared to just having cord at the ends and not across the whole ridge line. I calculated the range of tree diameters and tree distances I'd expect and it made sense for me to just bring the whole 50ft hank (REI 3mm utility cord) on a plastic kite winder. I usually have 10 to 20 ft left on the winder. It's not bad to have a little extra of somethings.
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