"It Awaits You" -Shug
Just over a year ago my husband was very sick, he had been diagnosed with cancer and also ended up having to have massive heart surgery. While sitting with him through procedures and operations I starred out a lot of windows in doctors' offices and hospitals wishing for better days. While up in Duluth MN where my husband was being treated I went through the local outfitter shop and found a map of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. I picked it up on a whim because it looked like a nice map and I thought it would inspire a sense of adventure. As a SAR professional, I look at a lot of maps and I wanted something fun that I could carry around with me.
I eagerly watched youtube videos, read all I could and realized that why was I dreaming about going when I could seriously do it. Then I found that there where pictographs that I could view. My background is Anthropology, I've taught at a college level for years. I've talked about these pictographs and their magic in my classes. I even read every Boundary Waters trip report and commented on this website, Shug's response to one of my comments has echoed in my mind when he responded to a thread I was on. I realized that with my experience in the woods and my gear that this was certainly doable. I started rowing at the local gym to make sure my arms were up to it.
I didn't want a big trip, I wanted something that had a good challenge for a weekend warrior with a simple goal. I settled on the Hegman Lakes as there were some of the most amazing pictographs in the Boundary Waters but also easily accessible but there was more to it. Years ago I had been gifted with a piece of trade silver (I'm also a historical re-enactor) that depicted the moose from these specific pictographs.
The past year I've modified my gear, experimented with my hammock and due to searches and life the spring faded to summer and then suddenly fall was here. Folks that had said they would go with me all bailed and here I was alone with a plan. I seriously contemplated going alone. However three weeks ago I found out that a coworker and good friend also like camping and had just ordered a kayak. She was instantly on board when I told her what I wanted to do. Some last-minute orders for gear, a couple of test paddles with gear to experiment and an eye on the radar we finally picked a weekend to head north.
I've been to Ely MN before, the three and a half-hour drive went quickly as we gabbed about future trips, camping gear, hacks to try and general excitement. When I pulled my truck into the Hegman Lake parking lot and the GPS said "you have reached your destination" my heart did a couple of jumps. I couldn't believe we were here. We arrived at noon and we carried our gear still pretty excitedly until we had to carry two hard plastic kayaks down to the water, one of them a tandem. I'll never forget seeing the lake for the first time, coming around the corner and there it was. It had been grey all morning, the sky gloomy and grey but that didn't matter. I was here. Excitedly we put our kayaks in the water, balanced our gear, added my dog and we pushed off.
The water was cold yet inviting, the lake was silent, no birds, the misty fog continued as we paddled to the small portage between the lakes. We quietly talked to each as if we were in a great cathedral. Even our paddling was slow and deliberate taking in the sites of the rock formations and the beauty of the wilderness. As we got to the first portage we were greeted by another group of paddlers who were already there. There was plenty of space for both of us to sit down and chat. We decided right here was a good place for lunch. Out came to my cat food can stove and in minutes the water was boiling for our meals. My coworker instantly impressed with how efficent that worked and we smiled laughing about how great this was and the beauty of the wilderness.
Suddenly we experienced our first trail magic moment as the clouds cleared and the sun came out. I couldn't believe it, the waters turned blue with the reflection of the sky. We allowed the other group to put in the water before us and paddle away. North Hegman Lake was ours alone and we excitedly put our boats in the water to continue our journey. Slowly but with purpose we explored North Hegman, enjoying the rock formations and the water as we paddled. As we turned north I saw the granite cliffs coming up on our left and I instantly slowed. I knew this is what we had come for; I mentioned it to my coworker. As we came up on the cliffs I looked for the paintings, not seeing them I momentarily panicked thinking that perhaps this was the wrong spot even though I knew it was.
Then I saw them...... The moose instantly jumped out to me, I couldn't believe that here I was, looking at these amazing testaments to the people who had come before and the significance of these drawings. It truly was as if I was looking back in time. My coworker spotted the pictographs and we spent a good forty minutes making passes by the cliff looking at the paintings with an appreciation and reverence. I pulled back at one point and just closed my eyes. I said a small prayer of thanks, a year ago I couldn't have imagined I'd ever get up here and here I was. It was starting to get dark and reluctantly we left, heading back to South Hegman.
We did make a critical error. We were past permit season, but yet there were about ten other people on the lake when we got back to the south lake. All of the campsites had been claimed. A campsite should have been our first priority. It was not to be and we turned our kayaks back to the exit, honestly it was supposed to rain all the next day and drop into the 30's so we decided we had a great paddle, tested our gear and our abilities and would plan to come back.
Many of the things I used on this trip I learned on this forum and without the amazing help of the people here I don't think this trip would hve been possible. I'm grateful I was able to go and do this and though I couldn't set up my hammock this time. I will next time.
If you have ever thought about going, I encourage you to take the journey. You will not regret it for one moment.
As Shug said....... "It Awaits You.”
PS thank you Shug
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