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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    I have always bolted the top joint. If you have one piece or fitted poles you cannot bolt all four joints and have it fold up for storage as there are geometry issues. The commercial stand uses a loose fittings for their design and production needs.

    I personally prefer the bolted top joint for both functional and aesthetic reasons.

    I would not recommend bolting the lower joint as it will create a geometry issue with how the stand sits on the ground. I will continue to use a shear lash to join the poles at the lower joint. Please see the initial post for the build instructions. Initial Thread
    Your picture (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...hmentid=176790) shows 4 sections that are bolted. Doesn't this mean both the top joint and the bottom are bolted together? Your statement above says that you are using a shear lash to join the lower joint. Am I missing something?

    Thanks.

  2. #12
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theguywitheyebrows View Post
    Brilliant!! So you’re ending up with 12 thirty two inch hunks of 3/4” metal conduit? With 4” of overlap on your aluminum 1” collars (with pop rivets in one overlap to hold it steady) on the two bottom sections of each pole? Those nylon washers are neat, this seems like a simple build! Gunna hafta give it a shot! Thanks for your collapsing tensa tutorial!!
    Yes, I use paracord for the splay and tie down both ends. This cord is wrapped around the bundle to hold it tight and the whole thing slips into an old camp chair bag for storage and transport. I had the AL- tubing in the scrap pile. If you can get it in steel, that is preferable as I did drop the bag once and dented in the aluminum. Had to spend about 5 min reworking it to round.

    I've used it in this configuration now for almost 10 set-ups. Works great. Still love the design.

  3. #13
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirbyC View Post
    Your picture (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...hmentid=176790) shows 4 sections that are bolted. Doesn't this mean both the top joint and the bottom are bolted together? Your statement above says that you are using a shear lash to join the lower joint. Am I missing something?

    Thanks.
    You are correct. I initially bolted all 4 joints, then I was going to go back to the shear lash... never did. Now that I have 10 set-up on this system, I am leaving it as all bolted joints as I prefer them. If you are using solid poles or segmented poles that do not allow rotation then you cannot bolt all 4 joints and have it fold, as the geometry will not allow it. As I have round poles in round connections it allows local rotation in the joints as I fold it up. Folding up the assembled stand is very useful for moving out of the way during the day or just moving too reset in a new location for what ever need.

    Now if your primary set-up location is on a hard surface (concrete, payment etc.) I would consider a sheer lash to allow the outer pole to settle to the ground. In softer ground, the stand will sink in until is has good equilibrium support on all poles.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Theguywitheyebrows's Avatar
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    Ok, but convinced the wife we need to do this (lotsa hotels and their beds almost always suck) but before i dive in, talk to me of the ‘collar’ pipe that came from an old table, whats its ID and OD? Thickness? Where would i get it online? Thanks you for your response, i eagerly await it! Super excited about this build
    J-Bend HERE -> http://youtu.be/Rk-P-MVnMPk
    J. Garcia
    Quote Originally Posted by Shug Emery
    "The only thing perfect in this hammock world is the sleep" @ 6:52 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HHncxp_SvA

  5. #15
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theguywitheyebrows View Post
    Ok, but convinced the wife we need to do this (lotsa hotels and their beds almost always suck) but before i dive in, talk to me of the ‘collar’ pipe that came from an old table, whats its ID and OD? Thickness? Where would i get it online? Thanks you for your response, i eagerly await it! Super excited about this build
    .75 EMT has a max OD of 0.92" so your looking or a 0.93" min ID tube. I used the standard: 1" OD. / .035 wall thickness and 0.93 ID Tubing.

    Googling 1" .035" wall tubing will find lots of options. Here's one: Tubing source in steel

    Note I spent 3 min. doing this search. Current sale price by the inch is $.31. I priced 8 pieces at 8". with $16 and change UPS delivery. Thus, they can sent it to you pre-cut for around $35 Could save potentially by shopping around.

    I used Aluminium only because that is what I had on hand. I would have preferred steel, but you gotta use, what ya got some times.

    Do you have any scrap yards near you to search for material? Could also check industrial tubbing suppliers near by. This is not something your going to find stock at HD or Lowes.

    Hope that helps please post a picture of your final project.

  6. #16
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theguywitheyebrows View Post
    Ok, but convinced the wife we need to do this (lotsa hotels and their beds almost always suck) but before i dive in, talk to me of the ‘collar’ pipe that came from an old table, whats its ID and OD? Thickness? Where would i get it online? Thanks you for your response, i eagerly await it! Super excited about this build
    I ordered this: 2- 8978K21 Rigid Aluminum Tubing, 1" OD, 0.035" Wall Thickness, 3 Feet Long from https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/187. It was $28.65 delivered to my door.

    I haven't put it all together yet, but the fit is tight when I tested it.

  7. #17
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirbyC View Post
    I ordered this: 2- 8978K21 Rigid Aluminum Tubing, 1" OD, 0.035" Wall Thickness, 3 Feet Long from https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/187. It was $28.65 delivered to my door.

    I haven't put it all together yet, but the fit is tight when I tested it.
    KirbyC, How many joints are you considering? If 8, to cut the poles into 1/3'rds, I'd be very concerned if a 2"ish overlap is enough. 36/8 = 4 1/2" connectors less cutting loss. I'd be particularly concerned doing this short with aluminum. Both for strength reasons and deflection in the joint. But, I have not calculated the loads so it could work.

    I guess, if I were approaching it, I'd modify one pole, or even one joint. Could duct tape the connector in place as you test it and try it out to see how it holds and how much play there is in the pole. If I did not like the results then I'd still have tubing for 4 joints.

    If you do it, let us know how it works out.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    KirbyC, How many joints are you considering? If 8, to cut the poles into 1/3'rds, I'd be very concerned if a 2"ish overlap is enough. 36/8 = 4 1/2" connectors less cutting loss. I'd be particularly concerned doing this short with aluminum. Both for strength reasons and deflection in the joint. But, I have not calculated the loads so it could work.

    I guess, if I were approaching it, I'd modify one pole, or even one joint. Could duct tape the connector in place as you test it and try it out to see how it holds and how much play there is in the pole. If I did not like the results then I'd still have tubing for 4 joints.

    If you do it, let us know how it works out.
    It's not very clear in my post, but I ordered two 3 foot sections so each sleeve will be 9 inches (36"/4 = 9"). I loosely based it upon your 8 inch sleeves.

    As tight as they fit, I think it should work fine. My only concern is whether they will be too tight.

    I'll let you know how it works out.

  9. #19
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirbyC View Post
    It's not very clear in my post, but I ordered two 3 foot sections so each sleeve will be 9 inches (36"/4 = 9"). I loosely based it upon your 8 inch sleeves.

    As tight as they fit, I think it should work fine. My only concern is whether they will be too tight.

    I'll let you know how it works out.
    Oh in that case you'll be fine. Tight is good. .

    Only time I had sticking issues was in the rain and water got in the joint. A little twisting back in forth of the middle pole allowed the joint to work free without too much effort.

    Only real issue I've had is I dropped the bag on the driveway and bent one of the aluminum sleeves. The pole would no longer go in. Had to spend about 5 min. placing the tip of various sized pliers in the end and while twisting the pliers force the AL tube back round.

    KirbyC, A suggestion on cutting the sleeves when you do. If you use a pipe cutter, go slowly without out much pressure on the cutting wheel and place a scrap piece of the EMT in the AL tube as a backer. It helps keep the AL round and minimizes the burr/end taper that may give trouble on inserting the EMT later.

  10. #20
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    My nephew is leaving tomorrow for an emergency road trip, no time to order materials to be delivered, and he asked me to mod his 3/4" emt stand to fit in his car. I can get 1" emt for the sleeves from Lowes or HD today. Will there be too much play between 3/4" emt poles and 1" emt sleeves? I plan to cut the 100" poles into thirds, so two sleeves per pole. Will it help at all if I make the sleeves longer, say 15" for 7.5" overlap between poles and sleeve? Or is there a way to minimize the gap using stuff I can pick up at Lowes or HD? Thanks!

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