I saw this as well. In addition, it looks like these new style dog-bones with holes for the pole tips are lark's headed to Dynaweave webbing at each corner of the hammock instead of the heavy-duty webbing that attached the metal tabs to the hammock.Originally Posted by thirtythreerpm
I believe JustBill has been doing at least some of his lightweight bridge suspensions this way for a while, though I've never seen one in person. I could be wrong.
That reinforced packaging tape, maybe. But definitely no-go on the masking tape.
Ironically my first post at HF was on this topic- https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...lips-Ul-minded
To which former mod Gmcttr pointed out that the lightest hardware was no hardware at all.
I'm not sure exactly who went that route first but seemed common knowledge here in 2014 at least and likely far earlier than that.
I have since come to believe that hardware can add unwelcome torque to the pole tip as well; especially in an end bar model.
Not quite what I was expecting either, but the Ridgerunner is a solid bridge as is.
If I were Brandon I would introduce a new model rather than fix something that ain't broke.
And yes- all my bridges are hardware free.
The original Micro bridges (once I got over my washers) used girth hitched dogbones to the webbing.
The recessed bar models use an amsteel eye.
I am playing with some hybrid model prototypes that use this technique again as well.
I also have 'Just a Bridge' which is an end bar prototype floating around with a dozen or so testers.
Those models use a new edge suspension technique.
From Warbonnet's Instagram account:
If that's the update, I prefer the old one which looks more durable.
I’m intrigued. I almost bought a new Ridgerunner on the Labor Day Sale. Maybe this is what I was unknowingly waiting for.
I agree with Just Bill that Brandon should offer RR’s either with or without the end metal plate as an option.
Any ideas how this new configuration will work with carbon fiber spreader bars? (Bill?)
Will the Lynx work with the new ends? That might be a dealbreaker. I don’t know if I’d be willing to have to buy a new underquilt to save 2oz. But maybe I would...
You should be able to clip the Lynx mini biners anywhere on the suspension beyond the stitching that attaches the Dynaweave to the hammock.
I have one of Bill's Luxury Bridges with carbon fiber poles and it works just fine. Everything fits the same as with the metal buckle on my Ridge Runner. I'm no engineer, but I don't see any issues without it. I've thought from the beginning that it was a brilliant design.
If anything this should improve your connection with CF spreaders as Ruta Locura uses a smaller pole tip than typical Aluminum pole tips.
What you want is for the suspension to transfer the load evenly to the pole. Because the amsteel is flexible it bears more cleanly on the pole tip than a metal plate does.
This is especially true for an end bar bridge like the Ridgerunner. The metal plate is inline with the dogbone. So when you put the pole tip in the metal plate is actually prone to forming a slight angle, which loads unevenly.
Layman's way I say it:
You're standing there and someone is standing on your shoulders.
If that person were to stand on your right shoulder only; you're going to fail faster than if they stand in balance.
You'd actually start to feel more stress in your hips with your right side under compression and your left side not. This would begin to force your left hip out and your body to buckle.
Of course being humans you would shift your hips to compensate and realign your body under the load... but your carbon fiber pole isn't quite that clever unfortunately.
That flexing in the middle is what causes a pole to break due to uneven compression.
That said- obviously hundreds of poles don't shatter using hardware. The Aluminum bars have a fudge factor and Brandon does run his dogbones long enough to help compensate.
However it is one reason of a few reasons that CF failures have happened (or are more likely) in an end bar bridge with metal hardware.
There are other bridge nerd theories I have too- but bottom line is that the change should be more friendly to spreader bars- not less.
It also should be more friendly to tarps. I've often wondered if the few reports we hear about a tarp tearing have more to do with a small burr or nick on the buckle- rather than the pole tip itself.
Looking at this again- this is actually different than other hardware free solutions.From Warbonnet's Instagram account:
I'm not going to say good or bad per say- but different.
For those curious about clipping on a quilt... this is how my end bar prototypes look like these days. (pretty much the same as it's always looked really).
It does appear you will lose this connection point but you could just as easily clip on between the bar and the bridge.
I do not suggest you clip between the bar and the tree or wrap the pole and clip. The few times I've had personal or customer issues with a pole slipping out on entry and exit... the UQ tends to be the culprit.
End Bar.jpg
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks