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  1. #11
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    If you need "needle rivets", that's what fabric glue is for. It takes the place of obsessive pinning. You can lay it down in a long thin stream or a series of tacks. Wait 15 minutes, then start sewing right through it.

  2. #12
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    Hope this makes sense:

    Sew the shell together with the outside in and the channels for the shock cord on the inside. Leave a gap of 8 to 10 inches open at one end.

    Then sew the Apex to the shell leaving it open where the you left the gap above (shell on top and Apex on bottom). So, you will have Apex and your shell in the seam allowance. Then turn it inside out. You will need to close the opening by either sewing by hand or on your machine. Your channels will be on the outside so you can pull your shock cord through them.

    The key is sewing the two shell parts together first so you aren't fighting with three or more layers of fabric at one time. And sewing the Apex on the bottom is counter-intuitive, but it feeds better with my regular home sewing machine. There is an occasional bit of filament that gets caught but for the most part, it is smooth sailing (sewing).

    Hope this helps.

    Good luck.

    Nancy

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutzelbein View Post
    I just read the instructions on Dutch's site. If I understand it correctly, he suggests to sew all three layers together inside out. However I thought that Just Bill advised first sewing together only the shell inside out, then turning it outside, and then stuffing the Climashield into the empty shell (like putting a cover on a pillow) and sewing over all three layers. Did I get this wrong?
    Yes you got my suggestion wrong.

    I'm basically just telling you to break the step of sewing all three layers together into two steps.

    Sew the two shells together with wrong sides out. Then sew the Apex to the wrong side of the shell.

    Now you should have the three layers sewn together inside out.
    -Apex needs a good 12-18" left open to turn it inside out.
    I sew the two long sides and one short side closed. On the other short side I sew from the corners to the center, leaving the gap in the middle.

    As far as finishing the spot you have to leave open... I typically hide this under the channel that holds the drawcord on the head side of the quilt. Sew it closed with a top stitch, then add the drawcord channel to hide (or edgebinding if that's your thing).
    I sew the footbox drawcord onto the shell itself prior to sewing it all together- but that takes some practice to work out.

  4. #14
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    Took a look at Dutch's instructions.... more or less same as mine.
    He adds the channels to the shell- then sews the shells together.
    Then pins the apex to the shell and trims excess prior to sewing.

    He has the illustration showing the opening to be left in a similar way I do it too.
    I just sew the final channel on one short side after I turn it inside out.

    So if totally confused at this point- just follow Dutch's instructions.

  5. #15
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    As mentioned by others-

    Apex up or down seems to vary by machine on what works best.

    If you do Apex down , the tissue paper trick does help eliminate it getting sucked in or tangled with the machine.
    If you have a nice wide nylon foot... I found fabric down better as the foot glides along the apex pretty well and the feed dogs can more easily advance the shell material evenly.

  6. #16
    Senior Member hutzelbein's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarifications. Unfortunately I cannot sew the quilt this way, because it's a Wooki clone. The part of the shell that also supends the insulation is much larger on all sides than the other part of the shell. So that option is not available in this case. Are there any other ways I could try?

  7. #17
    Senior Member hutzelbein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leiavoia View Post
    If you need "needle rivets", that's what fabric glue is for. It takes the place of obsessive pinning. You can lay it down in a long thin stream or a series of tacks. Wait 15 minutes, then start sewing right through it.
    Does this work on Climashield? Does it wash out later? Is it sticky when dry? I have had horrible experiences with self-adhesive Velcro: it gummed up my machine badly. It took me ages to clean it up sufficiently. I would only try glue again if it dries out completely.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutzelbein View Post
    Does this work on Climashield? Does it wash out later? Is it sticky when dry? I have had horrible experiences with self-adhesive Velcro: it gummed up my machine badly. It took me ages to clean it up sufficiently. I would only try glue again if it dries out completely.
    Not sure, but washable kids' glue washes straight out of anything, and isn't sticky when dry.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutzelbein View Post
    Thanks for the clarifications. Unfortunately I cannot sew the quilt this way, because it's a Wooki clone. The part of the shell that also supends the insulation is much larger on all sides than the other part of the shell. So that option is not available in this case. Are there any other ways I could try?
    I'm not familiar enough with the wooki to understand why that matters.
    My Primaloft gold quilts have wings on them so I have to imagine a little creative assembly and you can easily turn the quilt out in a similar manner for a wooki.... the wooki just has bigger wings.

    But if you're not comfortable with that... same concept generally applies; Less layers, less problems.
    Sew one shell to the Apex (I assume the non suspending portion). Then sew that to the wooki portion.

    As far as sewing through adhesives... you got the right idea.
    if it's dry- no biggie. If not- it gums up the needle. You can dip/wipe your needle in rubbing alcohol but that gets old fast and rules out the tape type stuff.
    Course the problem is then what holds it together while the glue dries?

    Also- never was a fan of any of that stuff personally.
    Eventually I got better at sewing. That doesn't help you much now- but it's real life. Sometimes when we aren't good at something we tend to keep trying too hard to find a trick or alternative rather than buckling down and just dealing with the fact that we need to practice that skill more. There are many things/tricks that seamstresses use that don't apply to the synthetic or SUL stuff in my experience. Folders don't fold, edge bindings are heavy, Sil-nylon is more slippery than any satin or silk. IT's hard to hand roll hems... but it does come with practice.

    Often times for me- just understanding that something is going to suck makes it easier to deal with. If you think it's going to go smoothly and it doesn't that's way more frustrating than knowing you're in for a tough job in the first place.
    Keep slugging it out and eventually YOU get better. I found with sewing the only thing that ever actually made it faster or easier was sewing. If I hadn't wasted so much time trying to find fifty ways to sew without sewing I would have gotten much further along much faster.

    Even now I simply accept that somethings will go in the garbage and move on. (or in the packing materials bin) When I do a prototype I always cut two, sometimes four. I don't know what you make at your day job... but at somepoint I realized I was spending hours of torture seam ripping material that was worth $10 or less. Besides that... after you seam rip most of the UL materials or loadbearing fabrics are damaged or mangled regardless.

    It sucks... so deal with it. Feel free to ***** about it here or cry in a beer.
    Not always what folks want to hear- but sometimes that's much less frustrating that hearing some 'hack' that you waste a whole sewing session trying to implement that gets you no further than you were before. Your time would have been better spent practicing sewing stuff sacks or working on a mini version of your quilt to work out the steps.
    If nothing else- walk away for a while. Sometimes that's the most productive thing you can do.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutzelbein View Post
    Does this work on Climashield? Does it wash out later? Is it sticky when dry? I have had horrible experiences with self-adhesive Velcro: it gummed up my machine badly. It took me ages to clean it up sufficiently. I would only try glue again if it dries out completely.
    The glue I have used is called Beacon Fabri-Tac. It’s dries completely and clear. It is not gummy. It is washable and permanent. You can sew through it. It sets in 15 minutes and cured in 24 hours. I have used it to bond slippery seems before sewing. It avoids a great deal of frustration.

    There are other types of glue sold by Aleene’s that are designed to be temporary, but I have not tried them. There are also reports of people using regular Elmer’s Glue Stick, but I would be suspicious of that one.

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