Silly me. I should have realized that cord is not cord is not cord. MikekiM, I appreciate your brief comparison on the cords you've used. Sounds like I'll need to try some new options.
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Silly me. I should have realized that cord is not cord is not cord. MikekiM, I appreciate your brief comparison on the cords you've used. Sounds like I'll need to try some new options.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
The devil is in the minutiae!Originally Posted by rodentface
MikekiM and I have hiked/camped together a few times and although we have different systems/approaches, our respective setups work well for each of us. And ours are just two of MANY!
Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
“If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton
I use these with zing-it, they're awesome. Small, light, and simple.
I'm curious about mini ucr's using 1.2mm dyneema. I tried using a mini ucr as a ridgeline in 1.7mm lash-it and found that, even when I made the bury ridiculously long (like 18"), I still had trouble with it slipping. It is my understanding that the thinner you go on cord diameter, the longer the bury has to be. Obviously, there is a LOT less tension on tarp guylines than on a structural ridgeline - how long do you need to bury on 1.2mm to hold a nice tight pitch on a tarp without it slipping?
I thought it was opposite - the thinner cord needed less bury, within reason. Perhaps a DIY'er will set us straight. It isn't clear if you are saying it is slipping under use or slipping between uses. Because between uses would be understandable. the bury only holds when under tension. When not under tension it can, and will, loosen up. It is probably not under tension when you are not in the hammock - referring to a structural ridge line or whoopie sling.
For a tarp line - the wind is tightening/loosening the tension; it is not a steady pull. So a bury can loosen up.
I would not use any "bury" process in a situation that didn't have a steady pull. Much simpler to wrap on something like a figure-9 or other locking devices.
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
That's cool, I haven't seen that before. Thanks for the picture of it.
18" bury?? for 1.2 cordage? Maybe if you're using amsteel for the outer sheath.
So doing a mental inventory I have two continuous ridge lines and three sets of split ridge lines all with mini ucrs for tensioning. And all of them use a bury no longer than 3". That's zingit outer and either zingit, reflective micro cord (below) or reflective 1.2 z-line inner. Note that missing from the picture below is whipping knot added at the exit of the bury, just before the overhand knot. I'll post another picture later.
I've done these with Jerry Brown Hollow Core Braided Spectra which is crazy slipper stuff. I used 300lb test for the guy line and smaller 200lb test for the ucr and these were no longer than 3.5".
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
Tarp worms from Dutch all day long. I've used Atwood 1.2 mm micro cord for more than 5 years as tarp tie-outs and have worms on every tarp. At the stake end I use a Marlin Spike hitch when I use a stake, but as others have said, here in New England most of my tie-outs are tied to trees/branches or rocks.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Men hang out their signs indicative of their respective trades; shoe makers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch, and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but up in the Mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men.
- Daniel Webster
I think you're right about bury length being inversely proportional to the dyneema diameter - I got that twisted up in my head. However, yes i've had a very long bury ridgeline slip under a load using 1.75 lash-it, not the 1.3mm dyneema. I have't tried that yet. But you make a good point about a bury under a variable load. It's been a while since i tested that situation, but it definitely slipped while I was in the hammock
18" bury on lash-it *1.75mm.* I did that because I got a slip on a much shorter bury previously. So i made an absurdly long bury to see if that was the issue. It wasn't so... I just gave up at that point and switched to 7/64 amsteel for my SRL
Getting back to my origonal post - I think the tarp worms might be the way to go. I am a cheap skate and was hoping someone, somewhere, had found some sort of ubiquitous product lying around the house that would work (sort of like the soda can tab trick) that wouldn't wreck the line after a few uses. Thanks for all the feedback everyone!
When Sqidmark and I started using the mini ucrs, it was for tarp ridge line duty, so we wanted them as short as possible. For an all zingit setup, 3 - 3.5" to start was the best. Whatever that shrinks down to once the core is added. I still have my first set and use them on a continuous ridge line. Never had one slip unless I interfered somehow... slid a snake skin over it or had a hammock strap press against it.
Once we moved to the tarp tieouts (and certainly the doors) we found the bury could be a little shorter, especially if using a guy line with some texture, as in reflective cord.. has some bite to it. I was using the mini ucrs on tarp corners when the temps drop low because trowing that little loop in zingit for the tarp worms is a challenge with gloves on. Once I switched to Z-Line I stopped using the ucrs at ground corners (Tarp worms on all my tarps now) and use them only on the doors. All of the ridge lines have them, regardless of whether they are continuous or split.
I'm with you... KISS and cheap. Tarp worms and mini ucrs.. unless you want to use the various knots and hitches available. I am tempted to do so, but haven't taken the next step there.
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
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