Unnecessarily Complicated Hammock 3.0

[WhollyHamaca]

Hi SteelToe, I just saw this thread. Pretty impressive work there. I've probably read just about every thread on HammockForums that discuss mods to the shape of a 'generic' rectangular GE hammock, and my recollection is that they all eventually come around to the same conclusions: straight cut ends and sides just work; it's mostly a matter of personal preference in folding vs. gathering the ends; and in the end what matters most is length, choice of fabric, and hanging angle. Then we have add-on mods to improve comfort in that basic GE design, notably including Knotty-mod stretch sides, foot boxes, tie-outs, mini spreaders, huge under-knee pillows, and so on. I'm always interested when somebody experiments with mods to the basic GE hammock and documents what worked and what didn't.

I like that you're interested in reducing unnecessary fabric (less floppy on the face, better view out, less pack weight and bulk) while at the same time maintaining or improving comfort (minimizing calf ridge, better head support and stability, less tension on sides). You experimented with your ideas and achieved your goal with a simple design that pleases you better than the standard-issue rectangular GE, and you've taken the time to share your process and results. I call that a win all around.

The other goodies you've made to go with your new hammock aren't too shabby, either! I agree about zippers (or at least no coil zippers), although velcro as an alternative can be a hassle and is noisy.

[SteelToe]

Thanks for the kind words! That's really my motivation; figure out what I want/need, and carve away everything else. It's convenient that the design solution ended up being fairly simple, but to be honest, it was purely accidental. I still want to experiment some more on the hammock-body front, and perhaps I'll end up making another before my big trip in August, but for now I say "good enough." It's amazing how compact this setup is, compared to my previous one; tarp, lines, stakes, and hammock all wind up about the size of a large coffee-can with only moderate compression.

I also largely finished the tarp...which was quite a job in itself. I don't remember the two Hex-cat tarps I made requiring so much work. Reinforcements were made with wastage, tie-outs are 1/2" Beasties, and the ridgeline is 1" grosgrain. The blue color is amazing (like a false sky, and very calming, though it does allow a significant amount of light through --I won't know how big an issue that is until I camp under a full moon or something), and I'm liking the matching...everything (lines, stakes, and bishop bag, soon). It's definitely a more delicate item than the 1.6oz Nylon Hex-Cat with grosgrain edges, but that's exactly what I'm looking for.

thumbnail_IMG_1147.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_1150.jpg
I really like the "blue over green" color scheme; when the top quilt I have planned is present, it will be the same shade of blue on its upper surface.

Lessons learned;
-When making a two-piece hammock with doors (that isn't a simple rectangular profile), roll-hem the edges before the ridge-line seam. It makes affixing the grosgrain easier
-Even a shallow (3" in my case) catenary ridgeline mildly complicates the tarp-hang; It's very important to hang it high enough at the ends that only the middle contacts the hammock ridgeline, otherwise the low spot will 'pop' to one side or the other, leaving a small bowl that will funnel water right against the side of the grosgrain peak. I made my suspension-ties long enough that the tarp ends are about 4" above the hammock suspension, and the middle 2ft sits atop the ridgeline. I suspect this would still be the case to some degree even without the catenary cut since the silpoly does stretch a bit on the bias into a rough curve on its own. I do enjoy how the catenary cut makes the tarp hang taut & flat without hardly trying, though. With the suspension passing through the doors a few inches down from the 'inseam,' it should make sealing them tight around it easier.
-Line-Lock hooks are awesome, and so is detaching the guy-lines at the tarp vs. at the stake (adjustment can be done underneath the tarp, finding/pulling the stakes is far easier, and tangles are impossible when line is wound around the stake for storage)
-Even though I have a fairly rigid setup (everything is either polyester or UHMWPE fiber) I still need some sort of elastic tensioner on the guy lines. I found I had to lie in the hammock, make notes on how the tarp tension changed, then hop out & adjust my guy-line length and even stake position. Maybe I'll get better at staking out the tarp properly with practice, but for now it seems fiddlier than the last ones, which did have elastic tensioners.
-The door construction is just about perfectly predicted by the CAD model; on flat level ground with the stakes at their furthest position away on 5ft lines, the 'upper' door corners come together. With the sides pitched just about on the ground (stakes at about 6" on the guy-lines) the 'lower' door corners come together & the upper portion overlaps.
-The steeper the pitch on a catenary ridgeline (such as in storm-mode) the longer the ridgeline span becomes (and shallower the curve)
-As taut as this pitches, I don't see any need for side tie-outs
-I may create a skinny ridgeline "sock" from the same Xenon material to act as another layer of defense against abrasion...although both tarp and ridgeline appear essentially frictionless

Sorry for the lists, I think better with lists...

I still need to decide how to handle closure of the doors; there's a few options;
1) Cam snaps, velcro, hooks, or similar "local" fasteners that mate each side together. Pro: small volume, Con: not very flexible/adaptable
2) Guy lines to stakes or other points on the tarp. Pro: flexible & easy to overlap doors or form 'beaks,' Con: larger volume

Features I think I'd value with the doors;
-Able to be totally folded out of the way (either inward or outward). Texas is hot, the catenary ridgeline provides a wonderful convection path out the ends, and there is no way I'll want to block that on some days
-Able to be overlapped in storm mode, and/or able to be sealed/lashed closely around the hammock suspension
-Able to be latched in 'intermediate' mode, and secured in some manner in 'porch mode'

While I figure that out, I will move on to the first accessories;
-Bishop Bag for the hammock (likely a tube about 4" X 14")
-Snakeskin for the tarp
-Bishop Bag for the tarp (also likely a tube about 4" X 14")

I don't know if this has been done before, but I plan to use the tree-strap suspension to wrap around each bishop bag to compress them fully. My straps have a pair of plastic D-rings at the loop end, which is obviously not used for hanging from, but will suffice for cinching the straps down around the bags. I had originally planned to bind the two bags together since they are typically used in tandem, but I think I may instead store the tarp bag outside the pack's main cavity where it can drain more easily. The tarp bag will also have a row of narrow sleeves/pockets on its exterior, where each of the stakes will be stored; I figure that should minimize both the risk and consequences of them poking through things.

Between the much-smaller bedroll, and the smaller bear cannister & cookset that will fit inside it, I'm pretty sure I'll be able to use my light 32L pack for the big hike this fall. I'll finally get to see if there's anything to this whole "(semi)ultra-light deal." Well, maybe not light, but at least smaller.

[SteelToe]

So the tarp is complete at this time (still need to apply the Kam snap door-closures, but that's all)

Here is the picture of the (kitchen scale measured) 1lb .1oz "tarpwurst" (I've decide to make a roll-up "tool wallet" to hold my stakes & suspension)
Tarpwurst.jpg

Rather than a bishop bag, I went with a double-ended stuff sack, with elastic cords at each end. The material is blue Monolite 1.0 (super cool stuff, btw)

Inside the perfectly-sized 10" X 4" tubular sack, is the tarp slipped inside a single 11.5ft tarp skin, also blue Monolite 1.0 (super cool stuff, again). The snake skins have a color-coded pull tab at each end (blue=stationary, black=opposite), to which is affixed a short length of Reflect-it cord with a pack-hook on the end. The hooks grab onto the ridgeline D-rings when the tarp skin is being used, which will both help keep the tarp organized in there (so as little of it needs to come out as needed during windy hangs) and act as pull-tabs to help quickly locate those little 1/2" Beastie D rings amid the sea of blue fabric. The blue tab hanging out the one end is the snakeskin pull tab for the tarp-end that needs to come out & be clipped to the suspension first.

I'll definitely need to exercise this setup some more; there is *very* little spare room inside that stuff sack, and though this Monolite material feels about as tough as 1.3oz ripstop, I will be keeping an eye on the flat-felled seam down the side of the sack. There's also a little bit of a skill to stuffing it efficiently; the skins & sack are breathable, but I found it is still necessary to compress the tarp in the bottom of the sack several times while slipping the tarp in, so the "density" is consistent throughout the stuffing. Also, the free end of the tarp must be tucked in before the very last section of tarp, or the doors of the tarp inside will squirt out the end of the snakeskin. Surprised me, too, but that's how slippery these materials are.

This sack will be stored vertically on the exterior centerline mesh pocket of my pack, alongside a similar, but lumpier bag, which contains my water filtration stuff. This tarp easily stores at 1/3 the volume of my previous tarp; silpoly is marvelous stuff.

EDIT:

The hammock bag is now complete, it is also a double-ended stuff sack rather than a Bishop bag. I intentionally made it much less snug a fit than the tarp bag, so I both have room for inevitable additions, as well as so it can squish and form around the other items inside my pack. Instead of Monolite 1.0, this bag was made with wastage from the tarp; as with the waterproof snake skins, I want some good protection over the hammock since it's in the very bottom of my pack (for the record, this pack has a completely external water bladder, which mitigates that risk of wetness somewhat; my concern is mostly from water in the bottom of of the pack cover, and wetness from setting the pack down)

Total weight of the hammock/snakeskins/ridgeline/bag so far; 14.2oz.

[SteelToe]

Here is a concept of the side-channel mod I have planned. The purpose is to provide tie-off points for any & all accessories I could need, while not using zippers. Yes, I will probably have to rip my side-hems so I can add the eyelets, but probably only the center 4ft or so. This will give me very strong support for attachments, without putting excessive strain on the side channels (or my legs getting in or out)

Side Channel Tie-Off Concept.png
It's not real clear in this sketch, but the cables do not pass through each other, but cross by each other as they 'lace' through the side channel eyelets; they are only joined at the one end where the opposite cable passes through an eye-splice (this is done so they can be reasonably replaced if needed; ideally the 'free' cable end would bury into the opposite one)

Each cord will be a long dog-bone (eye-splice each end) with a piece of elastic buried under a bunched section of cord, to provide the side-stretch. Because the stretch only occurs at the 'free' end of the cord, I can leave hooks/loops/etc on the cords without them getting sucked into the eyelets as the sides stretch.

There's still some more planning to do; for example, the end eyelets need to be large enough to get the elastic bunched up bury through, as well as the eye-splice that the other cord passes through, and the spacing between the last & second-last eyelets needs to be large enough that the elastic bury won't get pulled against an eyelet. But I like the concept a lot so far, since it gives a continuous line of attachment options (sort of; they will alternate between 'stretchy' and 'rigid' tie-off points), much like the grab-ropes you often see around the perimeter of boats.

I'm torn on the eyelets, themselves; I'd prefer to stitch them since it takes so little space/weight, but even smooth cord will wear on fabric button holes in time. I think some sort of hardware eyelet may be in order.

[leiavoia]

Two thoughts:

You can hand sew button holes. It takes a few minutes, but provides an arguably more durable result than a machined button hole. You can wax the threads for improved rigidity.

You can skip button holes entirely by leaving small gaps in the side channel. This gives you cleverly hidden access to the line you have hidden inside. This is also how to make a field maintainable, adjustable, hidden Knotty mod.

[SteelToe]

Last progress today; stake & suspension bag. Total weight 4.2oz

Stakes2.jpg
Stakes1.jpg

I have to say the little Kam snaps are impressing me. Perhaps not as strong as the metal snaps, but you don't need a hammer to install them, and they won't rust. I'll be able to install the snaps on my tarp in out five minutes next time I care to.

[SteelToe]

A few minutes for you, maybe...I'll have to check that out, and see how obnoxious it is. I think I'll need to do about 14 in total (7 each side) and I think they'll need to be about 1/4" diameter. That seems a big enough job that I'd rather do it with my machine...but I suck at button holes on my machine!

The other bonus with sewing the holes, is they can be easily color-coded according to the scheme I'm trying to maintain. Blue UQ/TQ "anchor" hook will prussik-on between two blue button holes. Now, the blue-color hook/etc *should* stay on once I install it, but this way makes even that bit of setup fool-proof. Also much easier to control the size of the openings where they need to be larger.

Gaps in the channel-hem would be easy to do, but I'm trying to make a system where the rope is exposed & intentionally accessible, and I think lacing it through those types of openings would end up pulling them in a way that stresses the stitches. Eyelets/button-holes would keep the cord toward the fold of the channel where I want it, and would lay pretty flat otherwise.

I'm pretty sure I'll be using Dutch's 1.75mm UHMWPE cord; sounds like the slipperiest of the bunch, is spliceable, and isn't obnoxiously-colored. If it's too skinny for a buried tensioner, I'll simply butt-splice it onto the shock-cord, run the cord out the last eyelet hole, and retain it with a loop around the other cord or maybe even a barrel-adjuster/stop-knot.

[SteelToe]

A little more progress on the hammock mods, now that I've ripped out the side channel seams (let's see if we can avoid ever having to do that again...)

Rough depiction of the 12ft hammock laid out flat
Cord Layout.png

A little more development on the mod layout;
-Where the cord leaves the side channels and terminates at the continuous loops at each end, it does so on the underside/outside
-The first eyelet location is a pair of eyelets on the inside & outside of the channel, the outside being oversized for the loop/bury of the other cord
-Between the first & second eyelet locations inside the channel, is a large loop with a pair of buried tensioners around the other cord
-For the five center eyelets, the cords lace inside/outside in opposition

Features;
-Sturdy tie-off locations at all four outside 'corners' for quilts & nets
-Alternating sturdy & stretching tie-off locations, both inside & outside
-Low profile, lightweight, minimal snag potential (9" exposed cord-lengths)
-Easily replaceable cords (depending on how long the tensioners last, should be durable as well)
-Color-coded eyelets for easy orientation of accessories

[SteelToe]

24 hand-sewn eyelets later...

I have the hammock side channels back together & was able to do some testing, results so far are promising. I made a 100" long spliced cord assembly with 1/16" shock cord & some paracord I had lying around (you can splice paracord, it's just a pain). This assembly is sized such that there is 2" of stretch left when the hammock fabric is pulled taut, and is slack when there is no weight in the hammock. One end has a 4" eyesplice of the paracord sheath (the core was removed for these modifications) and the other has the two ends of a loop of elastic buried about 1.5" into the end. Both splices were stitched & whipped since the paracord weave is terrible.

The end result is bulkier than what I want the end product to be, but it stretches enough (and only in one direction) and slides easily through the eyelets. A smoother, narrower cord will work even better. However, a narrower cord will not be able to fit the elastic, so what I will do is make a dog-bone with a non-elastic cord, and lark's head a square-knot loop of elastic to it.

The other part of testing --the practical function of the side cords-- also seems promising, though I may end up needing to add more eyelets at the head and foot 'corners' of the hammock where the curvature is greatest. I have a 1.5ft spacing now which seems adequate for the other straighter areas, but it's easy to poke my feet & head into the gap between the inside cord & its nearest eyelets & that's not gonna fly. If I still don't like how things stand with a few more eyelets (like, if I'd need a 2" spacing to get good enough cord-control) I will simply sew another channel to go over those areas; the cord hanging out in space is basically the first half of a footbox mod.

I'd originally planned to loop the elastic-end of each cord through the opposite line, but I see now this puts needless stress on the eyelets (the opposing line acts like a toggle against the eyelets). Instead, I will join the two with a Prussik, which puts 100% of the tension into the opposing cable, and adds adjustment capability. These Prussiks will be located on the inside of the hammock

So in conclusion, I'm happy with the progress & performance so far, but I can tell one or two more design iterations would make it perfect. I've already made my first side-cord-mounted accessory; a pull cable to make sitting up easier (which gets tiresome when you have to do it in rapid succession during testing).

[SteelToe]

12 more hand-sewn eyelets later...

I'm now very happy with how well the edge of the hammock is supported. I've made some very slight changes to the cable rigging;
-All cables will now be simple loop-ended "dog-bones" about 100" long
-Cables will first weave to the inside for 2", providing a place for an elastic loop to prussik on
-The elastic loop will have a line-lock hook at the free end, which will attach to the free loop on the opposing cable & provide adjustment (it doesn't take much, I've found)
-I will try both 2.8mm Reflect It cord as well as 1.75mm UHMWPE cord. I think being able to spot the cables quickly in the dark would be advantageous, but the 1.75mm is a fallback if that is obnoxious in practice

It's too late now that I've sewn all these eyelets, but notes for the future that will make version 4.0 much easier to construct;
-Rather than eyelets on either face of a channel, or even through-eyelets, attach small replaceable grosgrain loops at these locations that place the cables above the hem edge. The load distribution would be better, and probably more wear resistant. The cables would also be even more accessible for attaching items
-Sew a ~2ft channel over the hem at the feet/knees and shoulders, before the grosgrain loops, rather than closely spaced eyelets, and run one of the cables through it to provide edge support for the highly curved areas

While I wait for the cordage to arrive so I can finish the main hammock body at long last, I will begin laying out the top quilt. First, I will produce a lightweight fleece topper (it's getting toward summer here in TX) which will serve as a template for the interior face of the down version destined for Colorado.