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  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2011
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    Piedmont NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by cTall View Post
    I found this 2in shrink tube works pretty well to fill the gap between 3/4 and 1in EMT
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMJBTSD...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    I started off using duct tape, but it moves and rips very easily. This shrink tube is like a hard rubber. a heat gun or blow dryer activates the glue on the inside and shrinks the rubber so that it grips the emt very tightly. I've also learned by trial and error that one wrap of duct tape and 1 1/4in shrink tube will work really well. I'll get some pics uploaded if you want to see the finished product.
    Hey, cTall, that''s brilliant! I'm on a break from Amazon but looking doesn't count! I think I can find the same or similar at a local auto parts store. Gotta try it! That 3/4-to-1" emt gap has bugged me from the start, and duct tape alone just makes a sticky mess.

    Thanks for this, especially since it's not just a good idea and easy to do, but also evidence that it WORKS! Do the joints still come apart easily to pack up the stand?

  2. #12
    New Member
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    Allen, TX
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    DIY 11' 1.7mtn Wide
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    49
    So, here is what is a bit frustrating with buying stuff like this online. It's very difficult to tell exactly what you are going to get. The first time I ordered 1 1/4 in and it was still a big gap. Then I ordered 1 1/2 in and 2in. I got the 2in first and it worked great. Almost no wiggle room, but with a little twisting it came apart. Then I got the 1 1/2in and it's too thick. It goes in, but it gets stuck. It might be usable with a little sanding.

    So one of the orders must have been a thinner wall and the other must be a thick wall. I don't know enough about the product to know since its my first time using it. I might try to order something that is 1 1/2in thinner wall.stand1.jpgstand1a.jpg

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cTall View Post
    So, here is what is a bit frustrating with buying stuff like this online. It's very difficult to tell exactly what you are going to get. The first time I ordered 1 1/4 in and it was still a big gap. Then I ordered 1 1/2 in and 2in. I got the 2in first and it worked great. Almost no wiggle room, but with a little twisting it came apart. Then I got the 1 1/2in and it's too thick. It goes in, but it gets stuck. It might be usable with a little sanding.

    So one of the orders must have been a thinner wall and the other must be a thick wall. I don't know enough about the product to know since its my first time using it. I might try to order something that is 1 1/2in thinner wall.
    I don't know if this helps, but one of those little 'additional view' pics in that Amazon link is a chart with wall thickness for each diameter tube. They ARE different, as you've discovered by trial & error. But it's not clear (to me) if the chart is giving wall thicknesses before or after heat-shrinking, or if it stays the same. That doesn't seem possible to me, but ???

    I wonder about trying a couple or more layers of regular 1-1/2 or 2" shrink tubing like is used for electrical wire splices? As many layers as needed, with a little glue between them before shrinking if needed. For what it's worth, I fixed the loose head & foot joints of a yard-sale silver-plate flute a few years ago with heat-shrink tubing, and it's held up well even with children's use & abuse. If I can find more of that heat-shrink I'll try it on my stand and report back.

    Duct tape, electric tape don't last, and the glue in them gets soft and sticky. Maybe friction tape like for tools or bat handles would work?

    Perhaps by chance some other tubing might fit. Pex? Automotive? Clear silicon aquarium tube for siphon-cleaning? Poking around in the house & barn I find nothing that's quite right. Now I'm thinking about fabricating something from E-6000 glue and X (whatever it turns out to be). Durable, grippy enough to stay put when connected, but comes apart when needed.

    My stand functions fine as-is, but that slack between 2 emt sizes detracts a little from its aesthetic appeal. Gotta fix that! I'll try to get to town in a day or two to see what I can find. Surely there's a solution or three, just have to keep trying ...

  4. #14
    New Member
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    Mar 2014
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    Vancouver, WA
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    I am in the planning stages to build one almost exactly like this. One thing that concerns me is the small amount that the poles are inserted into each other. Do you find that 3" is enough? I was planning on 12" but I may go to 6" if yours is stable.

    With 3 sections at 3'6" and 6" overlap would make it 9'6" which should work great for my WBRR.

  5. #15
    kamileon's Avatar
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    Jan 2019
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    Phoenix,AZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by scouter68 View Post
    I am in the planning stages to build one almost exactly like this. One thing that concerns me is the small amount that the poles are inserted into each other. Do you find that 3" is enough? I was planning on 12" but I may go to 6" if yours is stable.

    With 3 sections at 3'6" and 6" overlap would make it 9'6" which should work great for my WBRR.
    I found that the three inch over lap is plenty. I've slept in it with my son for a total weight of 260 lbs. The joints held beautifully. The only issue you will run into with using longer joints is weight. It will take extra pipe length to make longer joints. But if aren't concerned with weight then go with the longer joints.

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    "I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be." – Douglas Adams

  6. #16
    New Member
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    Aug 2019
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    Bozeman, Mt
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    I'll hopefully be building my version based on this stand shortly, once I get access to my university's machine shop again. My version has 5 segments for each pole section,and is 9' long. I've drawn up all the segments on Solidworks, and created some rough assemblies for the different versions. I still need to track down the perfect spacer material, I was thinking possibly poly pipe for sprinkler systems. I also found handle grip tape so I'll definitely be trying that as well.

  7. #17
    New Member
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    Aug 2019
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    Olean, Mo.
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by kamileon View Post
    I found that the three inch over lap is plenty. I've slept in it with my son for a total weight of 260 lbs. The joints held beautifully. The only issue you will run into with using longer joints is weight. It will take extra pipe length to make longer joints. But if aren't concerned with weight then go with the longer joints.
    I am Looking to copy your tensahedron. would like to have an update on how the stand is holding up.
    I Am 175lb so am lighter but concerned with something i read about the pole flexing in the middle. I am thinking about a 5' center section with up to 2x 5' sections on each end with a 6" to 9" joint on each end of the pole. since you are using this just wanted an update.
    Ps. I grew up around 7th ave and missouri.

  8. #18
    kamileon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlumaTurtle View Post
    I am Looking to copy your tensahedron. would like to have an update on how the stand is holding up.
    I Am 175lb so am lighter but concerned with something i read about the pole flexing in the middle. I am thinking about a 5' center section with up to 2x 5' sections on each end with a 6" to 9" joint on each end of the pole. since you are using this just wanted an update.
    Ps. I grew up around 7th ave and missouri.
    My diy stand is still holding strong. I haven't made any modifications to the original build. The heaviest weight I have had in mine is 270lbs, with no issues. My poles don't really flex much. The flex I do get is from the joints. Only because I do not have a tight fit between the poles, there is a small gap. But they still hold.

    Your planned joints will work fine. Mine are only 3". Just remember the joints are the weakest point of the stand and is also were the grunt of the weight will be. So keep your joints away from the middle of pole. If you are using 3 section poles as I did you should be fine.

    P.s. I spent some years as a kid living in the area of 35th Ave and Northern. Now days I stay on the east side of town.

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    "I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be." – Douglas Adams

  9. #19
    New Member
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    Aug 2019
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    Olean, Mo.
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    I am progressing well on my build quickly. I have Question about joining the apex and ground parts of the poles. I am thinking of using Soft shackle loop for connecting the ends. need help in knowing how large to make the length to connect the poles. I am also doing the copper pipe liner for the connection area to help keep the wear down on the loops.
    Need opinions and what did You do?
    Last edited by AlumaTurtle; 08-27-2019 at 11:07.

  10. #20
    kamileon's Avatar
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    I dont have an exact size on the loops I used. I used scraps of paracord I had laying around. If I had to guess I would say they are six inch loops. The key is to make them long enough to allow the poles to twist. When you get into your hammock the poles will naturally want to twist. Maker sure the loops are long enough to allow it.
    "I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be." – Douglas Adams

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