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  1. #1
    New Member Ozarks Walkabout's Avatar
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    Four days Late Fall Backpacking at Hercules Glades Wilderness, Missouri



    I haven't been out hiking since July, so I'm out of condition and practice. I was expecting to be tinkering with my gear, hiking slowly, enjoying the trail and seeing how I cope with some poor weather.

    Preparations

    The forecast was for night temperatures varying from the late twenties to mid-thirties, and day temperatures from the lower forties to the mid-sixties but with wind chill figures in the mid-twenties. It was going to vary from full on sunny days, to a high probability for rain and snow. I took several layers, a thermal base layer, shirt, fleece, and down jacket. I decided wear a pair of Columbia snow pants, as the most flexible lower body option. I also took gloves and socks(!), but no shoes or boots, just my normal huaraches. I was tempted, but didn't bother with a kilt.

    I planned on a drinking a lot of hot drinks to keep my core temperature up on the colder days. Mysteriously I also thought I'd want lots of hot drinks on the warmer days too. I've no idea why I thought that. I ended up lugging around loads of weighty hot drink sachets for four days.

    Once again my main meals were Mountain House freeze dried dehydrated meals, and I also took two dehydrated breakfasts. I had my standard almonds and raisins for lunch/trail snacks, and packed far more lunch/snacks than I ate. More unnecessary weight...

    My trip coincided with the last few days of the November deer hunting season. As I prefer stealth camping most of my gear is camo or earth/vegetation colors. That's a bit of a disadvantage when you want to make sure that any hunter can see you and knows you are there. So I took a blaze orange vest which I wrapped around my backpack. When I camped I hung the vest over the tarp's ridge line.

    My pack weighed in at 27lbs including food and fuel - I packed a lot of fuel in anticipation of all those hot drinks. It weighed around 31lbs with 2.5 liters of water (excluding the liter in my water bottle).

    Day one

    I arrived at the trail head shortly before 1 p.m. It was around 44°F nice and sunny but with a cold wind blowing from the west. As the predicted wind chill was in the low to mid-twenties, I wore all the layers I had at the start of the hike. I didn't stop to think where I'd keep all those layers of clothes on the hot day that was predicted.



    I was soon reminded of how difficult it can be to hike the rocky parts of a trail when the trail is buried in leaves. I had to tread carefully and slowly as I could not see where the rocks were. Wearing huaraches makes feeling and assessing the stability of the rocks a lot easier, but the lack of visibility still slowed me down.

    Having started late, I was rethinking my plan to hike four or more miles. Sunset was around 5 p.m. (earlier behind the hills and in the hollows) and I wanted to be camped well before it got dark. I remembered that there was an old forest road heading north from the trail, which I thought might be worth investigating, especially if I could find a spot sheltered from the wind on the east side of the ridge.

    I arrived at the Upper Pilot (Devil's Den East) Trail junction just after 3 p.m. and decided I was definitely going to check out the old forest road. I carried on hiking looking out for signs of the road branching right (north) from the trail.

    I found the road less than 200 yards west of the trail Junction. I followed the clear but little used road for two-three hundred yards before I started looking for a suitable spot to bushwhack off in search of a spot to camp on the right (east) side of the ridge. As usual Goldilocks (that would be me) spent quite a while circling around looking for a spot that was "Just right."



    Suitable trees found, I set up camp and gathered wood for my campfire. With the huge amount of piled leaves on the ground, and a gusty wind, I decided that it would be wise to make a fire ring to make sure my campfire didn't get out of hand.

    When the sun set the temperature started to drop rapidly and the fire was lit before 6 p.m.



    I find that my first night out in the wilderness is always a little unsettling. Sitting by the fire, with the forest around me bathed in moonlight, it was disconcerting to hear a couple of packs of coyotes nearby performing their ethereal yipping, yapping, and howling. I challenge anyone not to feel a little bit discomforted by that sound. Especially when solo backpacking.

    I kept the fire going for a few hours before deciding to turn in, and here's where my stainless steel water bottle came in handy. I filled it up and left it by the fire to warm up. By bedtime I had a nice hot water bottle to warm my bed ready for me to get into.

    Day Two

    It was still dark when I woke up at 6 a.m. so I turned over and snoozed for a while. When I next surfaced I could see blue skies and the sun was catching the tops of the trees. The temperature had dipped to 26°F overnight but there was no condensation or ice inside the hammock, which surprised me, but matched my earlier experience camping out in the hammock with an overnight temperature of 16°F. I'd kept my butane lighter in the ridge line organizer, so I warmed it up in my hand before lighting the stove and boiling water for a hot drink to start the day.

    I have the huge Dutchware Gear 'Sidecar' pocket set up on the left, head end, of the hammock. This was to be first time I attempted the hammock camping holy grail of making a hot drink while still in my hammock. I had thought that the sidecar might get in the way, but it didn't, and I was soon enjoying a cup of hot chocolate.

    I didn't see any reason to hit the trail before the temperatures had risen. So I sat and enjoyed the rising sun.

    By the time I was ready to get going the weather was warm, so I had to find space in my pack for my cold weather clothing. Opening up my backpack's extra ten liter collar gave me (just) enough space.

    Back on the Tower (Pilot) Trail I headed east to pick up the Upper Pilot (Devil's Den East) Trail.



    I've hiked this trail before, but the reality of it didn't match my memory at all. It climbs up over the shoulder of one of the Pilots, and then crosses through several glades, before making its way down to join Long Creek (Rock Spring) Trail. The hiking was easy, the trail clear and it was very pleasant in the warm sunshine. The trail then headed through some heavily wooded areas, that I couldn't recall. For a moment I thought I'd wandered off the trail. Being lazy I just took a look at the GPS, and sure enough, I was on the trail, it was just my memory that was wrong.

    The trail joins Long Creek (Rock Spring) Trail at what we call 'Sheep Frog pond' It's an old almost dried up stock pond that's home to a load of Sheep Frogs -- so called because they sound just like sheep. Don't believe me? Here's a short recording we made at this pond in 2012.



    I carried on east along Long Creek (Rock Spring) Trail. This trail is popular and consequentially eroded in places, especially on the descents, which makes it a bit harder to hike.

    Once I got down to Long Creek it was only a matter of following the trail east until I got to where I planned to camp near to a crossing by a set of impressive shelves in the north bank. There's a good pool of water just west of here. My idea was to camp on the hillside on the north of the creek. From an earlier visit I reckoned there should be an old unused trail joining the main trail near the creek, and I was very pleased to find it where I expected. I headed along the north side of the creek.

    It didn't take too long to find a spot on the side of the hill with a fairly clear outlook. The creek wasn't visible as it was 80-100ft below, and the slope down to the creek ended in a 20-30ft drop off.



    Of course, the great thing about hammocks is that you can camp on the side of a hill, just don't roll out of bed and down the hill! I set up camp and then went down to the creek to get water. Stocks replenished I sat in the hammock watching the sunlight playing on the south-eastern side of the hollow as the sun went down.

    The moon was bright again, and the only coyotes I heard were a long way off, but there was a deer nearby huffing and puffing, probably upset with my being there.

    Day Three

    The temperature had dropped to 29°F, overnight, so again I took my time getting started, waiting for the temps to rise. I'd woken at around 6 a.m. to the sound of a horse crossing Long Creek. Whoever it was must have had an early start to be down by the creek at that time. It wasn't even fully light.

    I made a hot drink and ate some cereal before packing up camp. I managed to be on the trail by 10 a.m. with just the water in my water bottle to see me through until I got to the creeks on the Pees Hollow trail.









    The day was hot and windy. The heat wasn't at all welcome as I climbed the 500ft out from Long Creek.

    Once I was on the trail heading out of the hollow I didn't have any problems keeping on track. It was just a hot uphill climb. I was very happy when the trail started to cross the glades at the top of the ridge, and I stop for lunch, enjoy the view, and make a cup of hot chocolate. Given that the temperature was now in the 80°s I'm not quite sure why I bothered with a hot drink. It was windy on the ridge, so the exercise did at least prove that my new titanium foil wind screen works in gusty conditions.

    The forecast for Sunday was looking horrid, with rain and/or snow starting mid-morning. I began thinking that it might be worth camping further along the Pees Hollow Trail to lessen the distance I had to hike out. If I didn't stop for the night at my usual spot, the next point with water would be around a mile further on at Brushy Creek.

    Lunch finished, I hit the trail and was soon heading back east as the temperatures slowly started to drop again.



    I briefly toyed with the idea of cutting out the last day and heading straight back to the trailhead. But I thought I'd regret missing the opportunity of trying out my bad weather gear, and there was another night in the woods to be had too.

    Once on the Pees Hollow Trail I started thinking about where I was going to stop for the night. I needed water, and time to set up camp. I decided that if I got to my usual camping spot before 3 p.m. I'd keep going. As it happened, I arrived just before three, so I marched straight on, and kept on going to Brushy Creek.

    At Brushy Creek I immediately set to work filtering water. It was so much easier letting the water trickle out of the pipe from a spring box into the 'dirty' water container. By the time I'd filtered 3.5 liters of water I had less than an hour to find somewhere and set up camp before it got dark. I took the easy, but cold, route to the northern side of the creek - by walking along the creek bed. Barefoot hiking has its advantages and disadvantages. I'm not surprised it felt cold, I noticed some ice in the water.

    Brushy creek is called Brushy Creek for a very good reason. It's very brushy, and a good spot to hang a hammock (or put up a tent) was not forth coming. After a lot of searching I saw one promising spot, and then noticed the orange tape all around. I'd obviously walked into someone's hunting area, and I didn't fancy setting up camp anywhere near that. I bushwhacked west along the creek for a while before I gave up, and headed south back towards the trail.

    With darkness rapidly drawing in, I ended up back near the trail at the only two suitable (safe) trees I could find. I've set up camp in the dark before, but the conditions were far from ideal and quite frustrating. I decided to forego a fire as everything was damp, and it was too dark to forage for fuel. I made a hot drink and heated water for my dinner. The overnight temperature was supposed to be in the mid-thirties, but the air was feeling very damp and very cold. I sulked in my hammock and read my book all evening.



    Day Four

    It was a very quiet overcast night and nothing disturbed me. I woke to a dismal cold, grey, damp day. The temperature had only dropped to 39°F, but it felt a whole lot colder. A hot drink and a hot breakfast soon cheered things up.

    I was breaking down camp when I heard some people in the distance. They were very loud and discussing Bigfoot. I knew I'd set up camp near the trail; just how near I didn't realize until they went past some 20-30ft away. There were three backpackers, and the first two were busy talking and totally oblivious to my presence. Just as I thought they had all passed by without my being noticed, the third, apparently the quiet one of the group, looked in my direction. I raised my hand and said nothing. He grinned and waved back, also saying nothing.

    I continued to hear them for several minutes as they noisily got lost crossing Brushy Creek. I heard them backtracking before finding the right spot and carrying on up the hill and out of earshot.

    Those were to be the only people I actually saw while I was on my trip.

    I took my time packing up camp as I wanted to give them a chance to get well ahead. I didn't fancy having to listen to them as I hiked my way out. They were young and hopefully moving a lot faster than I would be, so my chances of meeting them on the trail were minimal.

    I was on the trail by 10 a.m. and starting the long upward climb back to the trailhead. The grey damp weather felt much, much, colder than it actually was, which was somewhere in the mid-forties. I didn't bother wearing my down jacket as I knew I was going to get plenty warm with all the hiking ahead of me. I decided to take the unusual step of putting on socks, to keep my feet warm. Despite the forecast, it only tried to rain once, and there was no sign of snow. I had carried the 1/2lb waterproofs the entire trip for no reason. Oh well, if it had rained I would have needed them.





    The hike out was uneventful, though I am so out of condition that I stopped to catch my breath more times on the climbs that I would care to admit to. I reached the trailhead by midday, and got there just as someone was arriving at a RV that was parked at the trailhead. They were dressed in camo, blaze orange, and carrying rifles. I think my decision to wear the blaze orange was vindicated.

    Lesson Learned

    • Plan to find a campsite at least an hour before sundown at this time of year.
    • Plan much shorter hikes because of the reduction in available time each day, or be prepared to get up and out in the dark.
    • If I am going to be finishing my hike after dark, it helps to know the area where I'll be stopping.
    • Don't forget that my pack may have to store more of my gear than I put in it when I packed it at home.



    New gear

    • Titanium pot stand. Worked a treat, saved space and some weight.
    • Titanium foil wind screen. Worked fine. I was expecting problems with it blowing around when I stopped for lunch on Saturday, but I didn't have any. Saves weight and pack-space.
    • Tarp sock. This is a great time saver. All the tarp tiedowns just roll up in, it makes setting and taking down the tarp much easier.
    • Hammock Gear Ridgeline Organizer. There are plenty of pockets and it holds all my small bits and pieces easily. It easily held my book, phone, journal, glasses, lighter, knife, headlamp, and the recharging pack for the phone and camera. In warmer conditions I could keep my water bottle in it too.
    • 10° under quilt. Worked fine, but I'm getting a couple of minor cold spots and I'm still trying to find the best fit.
    • Sit pad. This really inexpensive item was great. Not only did I use it to stop the Edge of the hammock cutting into my legs, but it made a great kneeler when cooking or tending the camp fire. I also used it as a sit pad when stopped for a few minutes on the trail.
    • Dutchware Gear Sidecar. The fact that I could push my 0° sleeping bag into this says a lot about the amount it will hold. Apart from the very real problem of putting so much stuff in it so that finding things becomes a problem, it is great, and keeps loose clothing and gear from becoming a problem in my hammock. However, I do think it encourages me to be a bit lazy and not put unused gear in my backpack. We'll see how this one goes over time.
    • Winter Cover. This kept the cold wind off me and the warmth inside the hammock. It really turns your hammock into swinging a tent. Unfortunately I didn't think to check the inside temperature to see how much difference it makes.








    The things I took and didn’t use were:
    • The Emergency Packs and Gear.
    • The fire steel and Fire-starters.
    • Loads'a hot chocolate sachets.
    • Loads'a trail snacks.



    What Worked
    • My new gear. It all worked as well or better than I expected. So far I'm very pleased with what I've added.
    • The Trangia stove, it worked perfectly regardless of the temperature.
    • Outdoor Products stainless steel water bottle. The neoprene holder fitted my backpack hip-belt, and now I can easily reach my water and take a sip without stopping.
    • Hammock Gear Economy Pillow. When I bought this I thought it might be a bit frivolous. But it's proved to be great. It just pushes into any spare space in my pack and works great when I'm side sleeping.
    • Buff and shemagh. both helped keep the cold wind off me. I used the buff as a balaclava and around my neck. I used the shemagh as a scarf and in conjunction with the sit pad for an even more comfortable seat.
    • Deuter Backpack. Overall, it's been working very well. Being able to extend it from 55 liters to 65 liters was very useful on the hot day when I needed somewhere to keep all my cold weather clothes. My niggles with it are the inaccessibility of the side pockets, and that the zips on the hip belt pockets are really hard to operate. Ideally they should operate easily one handed.



    Final Thoughts

    • I love my 0°F sleeping bag but it really is too big and heavy for hammock camping. I need to raise funds for a low temperature top quilt.
    • I struggled to find the best way to load my pack. Constantly changing how I pack brings its own problems, because I can't remember where things are from one day to the next. I started out with the sleeping bag in the main compartment, but I found things went a lot better with it stored in the bottom. More experimentation is required.
    • Ground sheet. This one is interesting and almost borders on aesthetics. I'm going to try putting it away when I've finished setting up camp. I really don't need it once everything is sorted unless it starts to rain hard and I need somewhere more sheltered to keep my pack.


    Trip Totals: 16.87 miles, 2,689′ of elevation.

    Link: A complete (more verbose) write-up and and lots more pictures on my website.
    Last edited by Ozarks Walkabout; 12-15-2018 at 18:20.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Groundskeeper's Avatar
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    Nice write up. I have the Deuter 75+10 and have the same issues. The belt pockets need two hands to open and I can't reach the side pockets for water. I keep the TQ, UQ, hammock and UQP in the bottom section. It works the best for me.

  3. #3
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Great report! Sounds like a fine solo adventure!

    You mentioned a couple of minor cold spots. Are you using a full length or partial length UQ? Where were the cold spots? There are always things to work out and fine tune, right?

    Thanks for the report!

  4. #4
    Senior Member sidneyhornblower's Avatar
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    Thanks for an extremely enjoyable read this morning as I sipped my coffee. And your photos are outstanding! Makes me want to get out into the woods right now, which is impossible. And I can sympathize with the "constantly changing how I pack" issue. Seems every trip I decide on a new organizational scheme and then spend time trying to remember what it was.
    "...the height of hammock snobbery!"

  5. #5
    New Member Ozarks Walkabout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elmer003 View Post
    Nice write up. I have the Deuter 75+10 and have the same issues. The belt pockets need two hands to open and I can't reach the side pockets for water. I keep the TQ, UQ, hammock and UQP in the bottom section. It works the best for me.
    Thank you. It's good to know it's not just my pack. I just checked my wife's Deuter pack and the zipper is a lot easier, though her pack is a lot older.

  6. #6
    New Member Ozarks Walkabout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    Great report! Sounds like a fine solo adventure!

    You mentioned a couple of minor cold spots. Are you using a full length or partial length UQ? Where were the cold spots? There are always things to work out and fine tune, right?
    Thanks. It was great. I have a 10° full-length Hammock Gear Econ Incubator. And (from memory) the cold spots were on my calves and upper torso. Still lots of experimenting needed to dial it in!

  7. #7
    New Member Ozarks Walkabout's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidneyhornblower View Post
    Thanks for an extremely enjoyable read this morning... Seems every trip I decide on a new organizational scheme and then spend time trying to remember what it was.
    Thank you.

    As long as I can remember the way back to the (correct) trailhead, not remembering what's where is just going to be annoying rather than disasterous! I can still remember where I kept tools in the workshop I had twelve years ago, but struggle to find anything in my current one ...

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dublinlin's Avatar
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    I enjoyed reading your trip report! Thanks for sharing!

  9. #9
    Senior Member twentybelow's Avatar
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    Nice report. Thanks for posting it. I hope to hike that area next year sometime, so the write-up is much appreciated!

  10. #10
    New Member Ozarks Walkabout's Avatar
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    Just avoid the Falls and Long Creek at weekends. When I was there in March I met over 30 other hikers in two days. I need to track down some alternate water sources. There are old stock ponds, but I avoid using them.The Bluffs on the western side are a different place to stop. It's a bit like Bell Mountain, with a 200' drop off to Beaver Creek. I've not been there with a hammock (yet), but checking the pictures I took it looks good. Here's the write up of our trip to bluffs. Edit: fixed typo.

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