Hey chapinb, thanks for all the feedback! Why is 12' better for the winter? Just because you have extra space inside or...? HG suggested sticking with the 11' as a larger tarp would need to be hung higher in order to avoid hitting the hammock straps, but I know many people use a 12' w/o doors and don't seem to have an issue. Cutting it down to an 11' would save some weight and be a bit smaller in my pack, but I'd hate to regret going smaller, so I'm willing to be convinced otherwise!
I will keep your experience in mind mathineer! Thanksfully my mom and aunt are good seamstresses, so if I get myself in trouble hopefully they can help out. I don't plan on using seam sealer unless I find it necessary later on, so I'm hopefully the standing seam will do well enough on its own!
I have three DIY tarps in 1.1 silpoly olive yellow. The WinterHex, and the Hex are 12' and an asym varies. Both of my hammocks are 11'. I am totally happy with the combination.
I love the color too. The asym below has been replaced with a Kitsap Glasgow asym and I don't have pictures of the hex with doors..
Standing French seam on the ridge for both hex tarps. Split rings on all tie outs... I bought the Beastie D's, put them on the first two and later took them off, and didn't use them there after. Shock cord on all corners with Tarp Worms. All reinforcements patches are bonded instead of sewn. No seam sealing needed. Doors have Z-Line with about 18" of shock cord with both an eye and a Dutch door hook for versatility. I added one panel pull out per side on both hex tarps but don't use them because I added DIY 2QZQ style pole pockets and always use the pole.
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Last edited by MikekiM; 11-29-2018 at 22:47.
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
Well the kit comes with the Beasties, so it makes sense to start with them first. I bought Zingit/Lashit but for the guylines right now plan to use plasticware (tensionlock hook), but I did base the thickness of cordage to match it. I'm going to use stingerz for the ridgeline, and maybe in the future will upgrade to all Dutchware, but since I'm building two tarps I want to keep costs reasonable where I can and $3-4 for a dozen plastic parts was too hard to pass up!
Thanks for mentioning Quest, and the concept that you can cut the poles down. I had no idea!
I thought Olive Yellow was pretty popular based on the number of tarp pics on Google. It seems to still be available in many other fabrics. I actually bought some in Membrane .66 to use on an Apex quilt/underquilt I'm going to make as well. (Will likely need input on that design too once I get around to it!)
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
The asym I pictured above is membrane. Crazy lite. I bought the polev sections from the Overstock site... I think it was $18 for two 13' poles. I shortened all the sections on one like to make the single under tarp pole and made a single over tarp pole with the other... Never use that one.
Started with Zingit on all of my tarps and now use 1.2 ZLine on all.
Other than split rings and tarp worms there is no hardware. The tarp worms come off when it gets cold.
The pole pockets...
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Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
Been thinking about the idea of shortening the ridgeline...
As long as the corners and tie-out don't move, you'll have exactly the same footprint with the doors closed! Can't see any reason to have that extra cloth along the ridge for a tarp that's going over an 11' hammock.
A few thoughts to add now that I am reading on the computer, not mobile.. You mentioned adding two Beastie D to the inside corners for the poles. I use just one center pole on either of the 12' tarps. It works just fine and I have never seen the need to add a second pole. When I sewed the ridge seam I add a length of satin ribbon captured in the ridge seam that hangs inside the tarp and is used to tie the pole in place. The pole pockets were easy to make.. I used Ofrey Grosgrain Ribbon for that. I've deleted the dead weight of the pole tips since they aren't needed with the pockets. The pole is just under 7 oz. At this point, I no longer consider it a luxury item and always carry it when using the hex tarps.
I use the short length of shock cord on the doors because it's inevitable that I will trip on the door lines at some point. The shock cord gives me a little give. I've thought of Kam snaps and velcro, but neither seem necessary or worthwhile. I use mini ucr's on the door corners. If needed, the doors can be pinned back in the open position, either by clipping the doors at opposite ends to each other leaving both ends open, or clipping one end to the centrally located side panel pull (which is what I usually do) leaving the head end closed. I tried a few different hardware arrangements on doors.. mitten hooks, micro biners, side release clips.. nothing works as good or is as lite as the Dutch door hooks.
As far as shortening the ridge to 11'... I never gave it a thought. It's 6" of extra rain protection at each end. Living in the NE, I have yet to have an issue with short hangs that can't be accommodated. That said, I do plan to add another tie out point on the ridge seam just in case I get stuck in a tight situation. It's quite easy with a standing french seam on the ridge. I'll likely add it to only one end at 8" in or so. The weight penalty of six inches of additional grosgrain and a split ring is worth it but since I haven't had a problem yet, I am procrastinating on that project.
Having worked with 0.9 membrane, I deemed it too light for a winter tarp. I was concerned that snow weight might damage it, so I stayed with 1.1 Silpoly.
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
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