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Thanks Bill and Grizz for those responses; what about this? It’s from an old thread referenced earlier by Overland.
F7693DC8-0B73-47D7-875D-72E44BE185C2.jpg
Thanks Bill and Grizz for those responses; what about this? It’s from an old thread referenced earlier by Overland.
Hard to tell the precise construction, but if a short piece of webbing is sewn to the edge webbing, it's only as strong as the thread it's sewn with, not as strong as the webbing.
Agree with VW... that's a different thing than Grizz was discussing and I showed.
The method Grizz described allows the webbing and dogbone to function inline with the force.
The picture above (if I'm seeing it right) is more like adding an eyelet on top of the webbing.
With the webbing loop and larksheaded dogboneÂ… you create a three piece inline suspension. Basically what is done by splicing the three pieces of amsteel in the Ariel to create a single line of force with no interruptions, twists, or off center loads applied. All the structural components are inline and the pole tip slots into that line without any interruption in forces transferred.
What I'm seeing above is sewing a piece of webbing over the top of the structure- so the pole tip is adding an additional force that could rip the webbing off of the main suspension. Yes... overbuild it enough and it won't tear out... but not quite the same.
To an extent (especially with me)Â… we are discussing ideal structural designs. If you overbuild things they can take less than ideal loading and make it work. I like using dynaglide or making grosgrain 'work' because I like to do the most with the least I can. If you're not as concerned about weight... then your options expand and you can afford a bit of slop in the structure.
Basically... I tend to be a little tedious and rigid. There are plenty of ways to skin this cat if you don't want to get super technical.
The only frustration; until you get to try a really good bridge... it's hard to tell the subtle differences. Designs I was really proud of years ago... I now consider junk. But... had to get started somewhere so at this point... might as well get started, lol.
Most likely even if you 'nail it' you'll end up wanting to tweak something for next time. I doubt there is one of us here who honestly feel they've perfected anything. At best I'd say I learned something for the next one.
Well, I let my zeal get the better of me and I’ve already hemmed up the sides. I’ve got what I think is a novel idea for spreader bar recepticals that relies on fabric webbing shear over thread strength. I’ll post pics when done. Wish me luck!!
Having myself tested some novel ideas... when you test don’t go higher than you can stand to fall, put somthing soft underneath and protect your head.
Will do, I am just about totally finished. I ended up slightly modifying the plan by rounding the corners slightly to accommodate binding the edge with the spider 1.5 webbing from Dutch. I also reinforced those curves with some 300d pack material and seam grip. That spider 1.5 webbing is really easy to sew and holds a crease well for binding. The spreader bar holders were a challenge, and I came up with something that seems very strong/durable - but the proof is in the pudding. I’ll be sure to post a full report.
Well, success! Had a quick test hang tonight between rain showers. I could actually turn over on my stomach without issue-super flat! I did have a WB pole tip slip off and fire my hiking pole like an arrow. After that I switched to regular tent poles.
After I get the end caps sewn on, I’ll do a write up of the build in a new thread.
Here’s a couple pics; sorry I don’t have any of the hang, but the rain was closing in. The weight without suspension, the patch before attachment, the patch after securing it, a quick pic of the attachement to the amsteel, and a pic of the hammock:
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Last edited by Peabody; 10-25-2018 at 20:58.
Peabody's bridge spreader connection.jpg
Looking forward to seeing how the pole tips nest in the strap, too.
LOL... Great Minds...
I agree with WV. You very wisely did not sew the bottom edge of the circular patches, but I would back them up along the webbing edge as WV showed.
Though I think the same 3 runs of stitching you have would work. Interested to see how this idea holds up as well.
Hard thing with bridges... they work. Sometimes surprisingly so, only to bust out over time. Though I suspect with the double body layer of fabric you might be in pretty good shape and I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
It is an interesting way to approach it. There is a different method of tie-out reinforcement I use on my tarps that may let you add that webbing as you did a bit better structurally.
With that Spider 1.5 you may even be able to use that without stitching through the patch area at all because it's so flexible.
Thanks WV and Bill - I’ll be sure to add those stitches today. After that seam grip sets up, those patches feel like thick leather - really strong. Does anyone have any suggestions on joining the amsteel and the dyneema webbing? I’m not sure if the way I have it larks-headed together is good for the long term. It seems as though the rope and webbing may damage each other under such pressure.
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