Question for bridge makers

**Peabody** · 10-18-2018, 12:25

Hey guys,
Quick question. I’m building a bridge right now that is based on Grizz’s Ariel design, but I’m using webbing instead of amsteel (just to be a little different). Basically it’s a BIC/hiking dad method in the shape of an Ariel. I’ve got the body cut out already (double layer hexon) and will probably sew on the webbing next week.
My question is: are there any alternative spreader bar ‘recepticals’ y’all could suggest? I’ve seen pockets, and I’ve seen eyelets. I was thinking of either a sewn ring and eyelet (in the webbing, not the fabric), or perhaps a loop of webbing bar-tacked onto the webbing that makes the sides of the hammock. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks

WV · 10-18-2018, 18:52

I've experimented with a number of different spreader receptacles, but the choice has been dictated by the nature of the spreader bar. What do you want to use, and what fits?

**Peabody** · 10-18-2018, 19:00

I’m planning on 36” spreader bars using Brandon’s pole tips that are 3/16” in diameter. That’s why I’m thinking either a1/4” sewn ring with and eyelet (like on a sail) through the webbing, or sewing on a loop of webbing to the side of the hammock (onto the structural webbing that makes up the curve).

**Overland** · 10-18-2018, 19:04

Please see thread “ New DIY bridge “ by egrant5329 dated 3-19-2012.

**Peabody** · 10-18-2018, 20:33

I had to go back and edit this post after looking at the thread you suggested - perfect resource, thanks! I think the reason this poses a challenge is because the spreader bars are recessed, making existing hardware like Dutch’s bridge hammock hardware difficult to utilize.

**Just Bill** · 10-19-2018, 15:09

20141014_152154229_iOS.jpg
20141028_162551020_iOS.jpg

Suppose I posted these before... Yeesh- dated almost 4 years ago to the date if you wanted to try to dig up the original post...
(Quietly Grizz, WV, and others chuckle at photos a mere 4 years old while Overland laughs out loud)

Anywho- your first problem (mounting the spreader bar) isn't that hard... there are many here like WV who have used many exotic and interesting methods. Regular pole tips aren't too bad to work with and best kept simple.
There are some who have done the webbing with grommet or button hole thing. I've done a hot nail... but unless you go pretty heavy on the webbing it always wore out on me.

The first pic is a standard washer which I modified with a dremmel tool to create both webbing and dynaglide connections... and it's on a recessed bar design.
The second pic is a no-hardware solution on an insulated recessed bar design.

The bigger problem though is the one you missed...
A rolled webbing suspension system works okay on a bic/hiker dad style bridge. Not so hot on a recessed bar bridge.

Two problems-
Physical- you have to 'make the turn' with the webbing and transition from curve to edge.
Structural- the portion of the bridge between the poles is the only section 'working'. The rest of the bridge that extends beyond the poles is not working and must be suspended from the dogbone portion of the suspension. So your attachment for the poles needs to be there... and inline with the center section of the bridge. Any webbing edge beyond the curve is non-structural.

Though I did have one motivated tester hell bent on hurting someone who put prussic loops on the end of one of my big boy bridges to try 'converting it' to an end bar bridge. It held... but makes a really crappy bridge.

Doing a rolled webbing and channel combo does work. But it robs you of many other benefits... it's actually a totally different design/pattern (at least for me). You have to design around that transition and transfer loads there.
Granted, doing a double layer will help in the sense that going 'overboard' with the fabric will help reduce stress.

Anyway... I get the splicing and channels are a huge pain in the ***.
But the Ariel is such an elegant piece of engineering that you do the design a disservice trying to make it simpler.
You also waste your own time a bit in that what you'll get will not be an Ariel when you're done.

There are ways to make it work... but it's not the same. Rolled webbing edges just don't move the same way.
I've done both and more experience tells me;

Rolled web designs work well for end bar bridges.
Splicing and channel works well for recessed bar bridges.

Doing a hybrid system (like the pictures) can have a few advantages but those are limited.
About the only really cool thing one can do is something like my original micro foot ends-20150802_200839424_iOS.jpg

All that said- go for it. That's how you learn. Nobody knows it all yet and you never know what you might come up with.

Obviously... I've got strong opinions on the subject.

I've seen a few 'dumbed down' Ariels get put up once the difficulty of the project dawns on folks who tackle it. My opinion is always to just bite the bullet and and get it done.
It's a very hard DIY but it's worth it.

Both Bic and WV have done excellent jobs presenting very versatile bridges that are easier to build... but Grizz is Professor Hammock and the Ariel his current masterpiece.

**Just Bill** · 10-19-2018, 15:26

IMG_3202.jpg

There's the one I was looking for...
This is actually the 'person and a half' bridge I made for me and my son to use backpacking... which is the pattern that eventually became the Big Guy models.
That probably best shows the hybrid of rolled edge and channels as that was one of the final bridges I built with that design and had gotten pretty decent at them by that point.

So if you did want to persist with the non amsteel/channel Ariel that's about the best way I know how to do it.
It'll work... but they tend to tear out over time at the corners.

**GrizzlyAdams** · 10-19-2018, 16:35

webbing on the sides to the pole tip, ending in a loop. Cord from the pole tip forming sides of the suspension triangle. For the sides
make a fixed loop, with the loop about 1.5" long, Lark's head that loop through the webbing loop. More words... pass the top of the cord loop through the webbing loop about 1" so that the cord loop sticks out the other side. Thread the other end of the cord through the bit of loop sticking up and pull it through.

Now you have created a perfect pocket for the pole tip, the gap that is 'inside' the lark's head, up against the webbing loop, Nothing else needed.

I'm sure I have pictures of this in one of my videos, don't have time to go looking, hoping that the verbal explanation will do it.