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  1. #21
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    +1 Narrow baseline does the trick.

    I also recommend using as little suspension as possible beyond the apex buckle, where the 2 dog bones meet. I've had success wrapping the stock continuous loop once around the Tensa pole (not just hanging the loop over the pole, but wrapping it once to shorten it), or skipping the stock continuous loop and putting the apex buckle directly over the Tensa pole. Hard to make out from the photo above what is actually attaching to the stand. But the bar clearance in the photo looks comparable to setups I've used.

    I believe Shug's solution involved somehow shortening at least one of the suspension triangles.
    Nope...I didn't do that. Just fanegled getting in and out a bit. I'll try the narrow base next time
    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  2. #22
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shug View Post
    Nope...I didn't do that. Just fanegled getting in and out a bit. I'll try the narrow base next time
    Fair enough! I'm not doubting you. I was assuming because looking at this photo of yours, it really seems like the head end suspension (on the right side of the photo) is noticeably shorter than the foot end suspension, whereas out of the box, they are the same length.


  3. #23
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    Fair enough! I'm not doubting you. I was assuming because looking at this photo of yours, it really seems like the head end suspension (on the right side of the photo) is noticeably shorter than the foot end suspension, whereas out of the box, they are the same length.

    Maybe I did wrap it a time or too....I really don't remember. But might have.
    I do so much hammock stuff I can't always keep it straight.
    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  4. #24
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shug View Post
    Maybe I did wrap it a time or too....I really don't remember. But might have.
    I do so much hammock stuff I can't always keep it straight.
    Amen, and we all appreciate it brother.
    Regardless, it just shows yet again that there's always more than one way to accomplish something.

  5. #25
    New Member
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    Mar 2014
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    Eads, TN near Mphs
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    Warbonnet RR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    I have been surprised to see Shug’s bridge setup. I couldn’t make it work so well with the base so wide. I have instead set it up with the base very narrow, about 3-4 feet only. This puts the poles under the spreaders, not beside them. Same with JRB BMB.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I tried the narrow base and it worked well. bases 3 feet apart. No sacrifice of stability and none of the alterations suggested by some. Thanks!

  6. #26
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    Just one additional piece of info... the RR suspension can be shortened a bit by removing the apex buckles and continuous loops from the ends of the suspension. Then you are left with 2 dog bones at each of the head / foot ends. One end of each dog bone is attached to the corner buckle of the suspension and the other end of each dog bone will be a loop unattached to anything. So those can be attached to the Tensa stand (for example) by using another dog bone, continuous loop, soft shackle, etc.

    Removing the apex buckles and CL's from the suspension probably shortens the overall span by about 12 inches total.
    If the bases are narrowed to 3-4 feet apart, no alterations are required. This was important to me, as I wanted to switch to trees without having to mess with changing the buckles and CL's.

  7. #27
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Vickery View Post
    If the bases are narrowed to 3-4 feet apart, no alterations are required. This was important to me, as I wanted to switch to trees without having to mess with changing the buckles and CL's.
    I agree. From one of my other posts in this thread:

    +1 Narrow baseline does the trick.

    I also recommend using as little suspension as possible beyond the apex buckle, where the 2 dog bones meet. I've had success wrapping the stock continuous loop once around the Tensa pole (not just hanging the loop over the pole, but wrapping it once to shorten it), or skipping the stock continuous loop and putting the apex buckle directly over the Tensa pole.


    However, as a counterpoint... if I wanted I could remove the apex buckles and CL's from the RR suspension and still freely go back and forth between trees and stand, by using Beetle Buckles on the tree straps. Each Beetle Buckle has 2 hooks, and a nifty way to suspend the RR from trees with a slightly shorter minimum span is to hang one dog bone off each Beetle Buckle hook. That takes care of trees.

    Then for stand, I could use the same Beetle Buckle / strap suspension with the stand, or any of the other methods I listed in the post you quoted: attaching the loops of the RR suspension dog bones to the stand by using another dog bone, continuous loop, soft shackle, etc.

    I was just being thorough in listing the numerous ways the RR can work with the Tensa4. And a lot of people are interested in shortening the suspension of the RR a bit anyways. The methods I listed are ways of doing that without compromising the stability of the RR or changing the stress relationships on the spreader bars (unlike replacing the stock dog bones with shorter ones).

    Every time I have used the RR with the Tensa 4, I've used about a 4' baseline and wrapped the stock continuous loop from the RR apex once around the Tensa pole (not just hanging the loop over the pole, but wrapping it once to shorten it), or skipped the stock continuous loop (letting it hang freely from the apex buckle) and putting the apex buckle directly over the Tensa pole.

    You do you, and whatever works for you is great. I was simply listing lots of possibilities after having experimented with it quite a bit.
    Last edited by cmc4free; 04-05-2019 at 13:01.

  8. #28
    Senior Member
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    Great information all. I have a Ridgerunner and would love to use in my treeless backyard, so this is encouraging.
    ~~~NJHEART2HEART Dawn~~~
    "Seek God, Embrace the Journey, Leave a Legacy of Love"

  9. #29
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJHeart2Heart View Post
    Great information all. I have a Ridgerunner and would love to use in my treeless backyard, so this is encouraging.
    I’ve been Messing with the RR and a tensa4 for a bit now. I have a setup that will work. In a pinch. It’s not ideal. The hang isn’t like hanging from two nicely spaced trees. The bars make contact with the stand an fit feels tippy from the shorter suspension. I’ve tried different setups and adjustments. Baseline 4’. And had better luck with tight Tensa guylines holding the ends down and tight. It’s not perfect but works. Good luck. Let me know if ya need help, or encouragement . I made some short continuous loops that helped. The Tensa seems to work much better with the gathered ends we use. Good luck


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Senior Member Brady's Avatar
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    Is everyone in this thread using the Tensa 4 or did you make your own? I made a DIY Tensahedron today and managed to drill the holes and make some continuous loops and connect everything. I wasn't able to figure out how to get it working before it got dark but will complete it for tomorrow unless the rain moves in again. I just used the stock EMT conduit so the poles are 10'. Hoping that helps me avoid the issues you folks are mentioning above.
    Brady

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