Aluminum knitting needles from Michaels (the bigger ones). Cut them up in 3-4" sections with a Dremel. Cheap, light and sturdy.
Aluminum knitting needles from Michaels (the bigger ones). Cut them up in 3-4" sections with a Dremel. Cheap, light and sturdy.
Having been a cabinet and furniture maker in a previous life, I use small scraps of exotic rainforest hardwoods including ebony, rosewood, bubinga, bloodwood & others. From all of the above it seems that everybody looks around, finds something appropriate, and uses it. Related tip: given suitable material, drill a small hole in an end, squirt a drop of superglue in the hole, follow with a short length of braided cord, and tie, glue, or sew the other end to near where the toggle will be used.
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bob
One advantage of the MSH is using expedient material.....but choice is key here as was pointed out by NCPatrick on the South Mountains hike....the webbing had over the night cut into the soft green white pine toggle at least 1/8 inch....would it have failed?
You may want to use a tubing cutter like a plumber uses to cut copper tubing. It has a rolling blade that rotates around the tube and every couple turns you tighten the blade sinking it farther into the metal. This produces a nice smooth cut and doesn't produce any saw dust. I have never used on aluminum but I bet it will work.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
Have used masking tape wrapped around the tubing and sharp fine tooth hacksaw blade. Circumference cut/score, then cut through. Knock off the 90* cut with some wet/dry sand paper. Has worked fine for carbon fiber X/C ski poles to carbon masts.
The pictured carbon fiber and bamboo toggles have held up. Anyone tried a Ti stake? One of the light sub 8gm Shepard's hook type.
Noel V.
I used pipe cutter on CF went slow and worked fine...............cough.......cough
Theres nothing like danglin in dixie!!!!
Murphy's Law: When one toilet breaks they all break.....its all a buncha crap.
Im an educated idiot. The more I learn the less I know.
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