Collapsahedron —— my collapsing version of the Tensahedron

[cougarmeat]

Jefiner, could you please post a photo of how your poles are connected at the top. that lower pole disappears under the upper and I can't see what is happening on that side. I Read the post of another who just drilled holes in the treads at that pole end and didn't put a "top" on it. So I'm wondering why you made that choice. How long are your blue loops at the bottom (like if I put two fingers in the loop and pulled it apart)? In the non-collapsible threads they talk about using wire and I am a little concerned about cutting the AmSteel with the tension on the hole edges. I'm sure they can be smoothed out some. It's just that some cords cut so easily under tension.

[TominMN]

Looks like there is a loop of amsteel on the end of each pole. One pole's loop is threaded through the other pole end before both loops are captured by the 'biner.

[Crazytown3]

I like it too. Every time i read the thread title i think “marketing problem” though. I guess not a problem for DIY. With commercial flavor i’ve learned biggest problem is PERCEPTION of instability. As soon as people can be coaxed to try, they almost all say, surprised “wow, that’s way more solid than i thought” or similar.

I have to admit, that's the first thing I thought of too when I saw the thread title. I'm glad I read through it though. My dear son, who I love very, very much, has asked to borrow my Tensa4 stand a couple times. I have turned him down though, because it's my special baby for my special, hard earned, motorcycle trips.

This Collapsahedron stand is just the thing for my dear son I think.

[Jefiner]

The picture is one click in, but when I set it up outside, I went full tilt boogie, and there was no sway or bowing. Those poles are rock solid.

Best part: poles, two hammock straps, eight biners (four of which are steel), two hanks of 15 foot line stakes and gig bag is just under 12 lbs.

ETA: Total cost is now 120 bucks with gig bag. I already had line, hammock straps, biners and stakes. Still gonna save up for a Tensa 4, but this is a great start. I just love it!

hammockinbag.jpg

hammockcloseup.jpg

[Jefiner]

Jefiner, could you please post a photo of how your poles are connected at the top. that lower pole disappears under the upper and I can't see what is happening on that side. I Read the post of another who just drilled holes in the treads at that pole end and didn't put a "top" on it. So I'm wondering why you made that choice. How long are your blue loops at the bottom (like if I put two fingers in the loop and pulled it apart)? In the non-collapsible threads they talk about using wire and I am a little concerned about cutting the AmSteel with the tension on the hole edges. I'm sure they can be smoothed out some. It's just that some cords cut so easily under tension.

I will get some pictures tomorrow. Basically, the tool heads have a carriage bolt and wingnut; originally I larksheaded five inch amsteel continuous loops around the bolts, but now I have switched to screw gate oval biners (I had them laying around) around the carriage bolt with the amsteel looped through the biners. I didn't see any wear after messing around with the stand on Sunday, but I had the same concern. So, Biners, and now the amsteel is way far away from anything that could fray. I decided to use the tool heads because I was reluctant to drill through the aluminum post. It does add about four inches to the length of the pole, but the things are little bricks of aluminum. They did need to be filed down and deburred, but no biggie.. The bottom of the poles I drilled through and tried to swage a little with the drill; I then went in with a rat tail file and smoothed the holes out-it looks like maybe 1/4 inch fiberglass. I can't get a picture of that, since I have opted to leave the rubber grips on the handles. I used five inch continuous loops on the top and eight inch continuous loops on the bottom, but I really didn't need that much--again, it was what I had laying around ;-)

[bobpaul]

Wait! Even better... $70 with free shipping!

Zoro.com

The all steel version from Zoro is only $7/ea. With the 15% off discount, can get those and "broom thread adapter" for under $50. That actually makes it a fair bit cheaper than 3/4" EMT, rubber feet, and 4 of those Creative Shelter pole connectors.

Now I just need some paint rollers or something else I need to round it out to $50.

[jdy98p]

The all steel version from Zoro is only $7/ea. With the 15% off discount, can get those and "broom thread adapter" for under $50. That actually makes it a fair bit cheaper than 3/4" EMT, rubber feet, and 4 of those Creative Shelter pole connectors.

Now I just need some paint rollers or something else I need to round it out to $50.

If you get the steel poles I’d love to hear if they’re as stable as the fiberglass/aluminum ones. And how much heavier they might be...

I’m thinking of getting a few of the new ball+toggles from Tensa Outdoors to connect the pole ends, and with the steel paint poles that would be a cheap stand!



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[nathanjwuk]

I'm liking this idea a lot as I mainly camp with scouts and so travel by car!

How do you determine the width/spread of the feet?

[CaptainGravity]

@nathanjwuk: mainly experimentation. 5-6' wide. Too much narrower and your shoulders/head may hit the stand (especially if you lay very diagonally). Longer poles than these extendables give greater margins for error of course.
By the way, I've enjoyed demonstrating uses of lashings by making tensahedron stands out of "pioneering poles" 8' long. (for my own use, though; no scout has trusted it yet)

[nathanjwuk]

If you go the thread adaptor route, how do you connect them together?

Could you use small loops of 3/32 steel cable with eyes? The stuff they sell at home Depot for instance? Then clip the suspension on to that.