DYI Tensahedron Hammock Stand

**Latherdome** · 06-21-2019, 00:15

Originally Posted by Squishy

Of course some experiments would be done before picking the lengths, usually with paracord since its cheap cheap and reusable. But since my setup typically doesn't change then I'd be fine with being confined to the fixed use case. So, the dogbone idea is completely feasible here?

I see no trouble. Tensa4’s first production lines were similar: adjustable, but with the connectors integral to the lines as you propose. We used a pushpin to thread the end loops through, then securing to a toggle, which could be a button knot too.

Amsteel is total overkill strengthwise for ridgeline, especially since often redundant with hammock’s. The baseline can get surprisingly taut however with a wide splay on a hard surface.

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**Squishy** · 06-21-2019, 01:13

Then perhaps Zing It for the ridge line, regardless of what's its made of as most would work it's just that spliced cord looks nice and uniform with the rest of said gear. I only see it as really necessary here as a place to easily and reliably hang a tarp since my hammocks have their own structural lines anyway.
Edit: The inspiration to look for better options is that this was my first setup to hang with no trees at the Barber Small Bore event two weeks ago, while effective it was quite cumbersome to setup.

**gargoyle** · 06-21-2019, 15:16

Tensa Users-
I was gifted a bunch of 13’ x 1” pipe.
If I cut them in half @ 6’-6”, can I fit a hammock?
Or do I cut them @ 8’-9’?
Standard 10-11’ hammock.

**WhollyHamaca** · 06-23-2019, 18:55

Originally Posted by gargoyle

Tensa Users-
I was gifted a bunch of 13’ x 1” pipe.
If I cut them in half @ 6’-6”, can I fit a hammock?
Or do I cut them @ 8’-9’?
Standard 10-11’ hammock.

Lucky you!
My shortest hammock is 11', and my poles cut to 8'6" are a good length for it. It can fit diagonally in a 8x10 room. Outdoors you might want more height for a tarp but it has been OK for me, maybe because I'm just 5'5" tall.
I suggest cutting your poles to 9' and see how you like it. You can always cut them shorter and drill new holes.
I find 10' poles to be a bit excessive, even for my 15' hammock.
6'6" poles are too short. I've thought about trying a tensahedron chair stand that size, though.

**old4hats** · 08-23-2019, 14:02

Ok, got bitten by the bug. Today I put together my own tensahedron stand, using the top rails from two turtle dog stands. These are the fence top rail tubes. My poles are 9'3" each, so that they can be reused as turtle dogs if I choose. My ridge line is 12', spread is 6'. This thing is rock solid. Thanks to all who preceded my build, I drew generously from your reports. Latherdome, you started something good.

**jeff-oh** · 08-23-2019, 15:07

Originally Posted by old4hats

Ok, got bitten by the bug. Today I put together my own tensahedron stand, using the top rails from two turtle dog stands. These are the fence top rail tubes. My poles are 9'3" each, so that they can be reused as turtle dogs if I choose. My ridge line is 12', spread is 6'. This thing is rock solid. Thanks to all who preceded my build, I drew generously from your reports. Latherdome, you started something good.

Glad to hear it. Yes this stand has been a game changer around here. I will be making modifications to my stand to make it more portable this weekend. Hope to report Monday.

**jeff-oh** · 09-09-2019, 12:53

I updated the stand to so the poles disconnect and fit into a camp chair bag for portability. Improved-DIY-Tensahedron-Stand

This past week I have modified my DIY Tensa Stand to improve storage and transport. The stand now breaks down into 36" sections which fit into an old camp chair bag for easy transport.

The original stand with dimensions and material list is here: [URL="https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/148962-DYI-Tensahedron-Hammock-Stand"]DIY Tensa Stand/URL]

Attachment 176799

The DIY Tensa stand poles were cut into 3 sections. I used 1" aluminum tubing I salvaged from on old folding camp table. Though this pipe is readily available on the internet. The tubing was cut into 8" pieces and these slip over the 3/4" EMT pipe snugly. To hold them in place I pop riveted the aluminum tubing to the each of the 8 end pieces. The center section of the EMT pipe slips into place forming the stand.
Attachment 176789 Attachment 176790 Attachment 176798

As I like firm joints. I bolted the apexes together and place soft shackles for the hammock suspension.
Attachment 176791

My set up is such that my 10' tarp perfectly fits the stand and attaches to the poles. The hammock suspension is adjusted to match the tension of the tarp. Thus, the tarp stays taught but is not over loaded. This allows an open tarp set up or it can be rigged for Storm mode (Rode out remains of Hurricane Gordon in 2018). Storm mode is achieved by wrapping the tarp tight around the stand legs and running the guy line through the side tarp tieout and around the back leg before pinning it. This doubles up the end protection and holds the tarp down to the ground. Looks extremely claustrophobic from the outside, however inside it is spacious and roomy because your hammock hangs inside all the poles anyways. The tarp becomes a protective cocoon.

Attachment 176800 Attachment 176801 Attachment 176802

I hope you enjoyed this update.

**Latherdome** · 09-10-2019, 09:41

An additional boon of segmenting the poles as you have is that they can rotate within the sleeves, allowing you the bolted connections you prefer at both apexes and base. Previously you lashed the base, which allowed the poles to rotate to accommodate the bolted apexes, but I found the asymmetrical connections less elegant than what you’ve done now.

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**jeff-oh** · 09-10-2019, 16:28

Originally Posted by Latherdome

An additional boon of segmenting the poles as you have is that they can rotate within the sleeves, allowing you the bolted connections you prefer at both apexes and base. Previously you lashed the base, which allowed the poles to rotate to accommodate the bolted apexes, but I found the asymmetrical connections less elegant than what you’ve done now.

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You caught me! I did bolt the base as you alluded to above. However, I am going back to another system. This is why I did not point out that I bolted the base as it does not work as cleanly as I had hoped... Can you guess why?

The Distance to the ground for the outside pole is longer than the inside pole due to the splay at the ground points. Thus, on a hard surface all the weight of the outside pole must transfer through the bolt to the inside pole. The whole system actually sits on the inside curve of the 2 inside poles. In soft ground this is a non-issue as the one pole will just sink into the ground a little more. The lashings allowed the outside pole to slide deeper into the lashing to make ground contact. A cable system or chained connection also allow the little vertical adjustment needed.

Since the ground cross line is tied and fixed I guess the needed offset could be calculated... but that seem too much work at this point.