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  1. #21

    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Woods Cross, UT
    Hammock
    Dream Hammock Sparrow
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    Bonded Wide Winter
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    Yikes! That had to be scary! Glad nobody was hurt by those flying attack-poles and that you have the sections secured now. Fence rail is HEAVY when it breaks free and comes after you. Normally I'd say "Don't fear the taco" and practice taco'ing a few times to get past it, but not like you experienced!

    Great pics. I especially like your CLs through and then around poles for the joints! Easier to make than soft shackles and IMO much preferable to hardware.

    For future reference, source for the grommets you used? Please let us know how they hold up with Amsteel rubbing on them. My current stand is 3/4" EMT, so I'll want smaller grommets that fit 1/4" holes. but may need to use fence rail for my brother.
    Thanks! I was originally going to use a hardware-based solution for "lashing" the poles (eye bolts & quick links), but after reading some of the threads here I was worried about the eye bolts shearing due to twist-and-torque forces (I'm 6'4" x 320 lbs). My first setup didn't have any grommets; I just drilled 3/8" holes & smoothed them off with a round file. Didn't really notice any fraying of the Amsteel, but I can see how it might become a problem so I added the grommets as a precaution. I had to widen the holes to 1/2" to make the them fit, but the effective opening after the grommets are installed is still 3/8".

    Found the grommets on Amazon:

    Grommets.JPG
    Enjoying my fall into the rabbit hole...

  2. #22
    STinGa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Georgia, ^ of Atlanta
    Hammock
    DIY standard gathered end (DL 1.1)
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    Chinook 12x9
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    Nada ... yet
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    DIY whoopies
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    Quote Originally Posted by West michigan View Post
    https://creativeshelters.com/product/connector_FC-A

    I bought 4 of these so I can break mine down for my trunk
    They work great!Attachment 167585
    Thanks for the link. I've checked several local stores and no one has these. I'll be placing an order tomorrow. I am estimating that my final length on the poles will be 9 feet long. The 4.5 feet sections will fit nicely in the back of the car. I'll play around before making any cuts to see what works best for my current set up.
    Sarcasm is a dying art.

    Eagle Scout September '85 Troop 339 Smyrna, TN

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
    Hammock
    long and wide
    Tarp
    big green diy
    Insulation
    faux baffled CDTs
    Suspension
    wing and prayer
    Posts
    253
    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Trekking View Post
    Your post has motivated me to give this stand a shot. I purchased the materials at Lowe’s yesterday and will throw it together Friday evening. I will be attaching a warbonnet blackbird to the stand. It has a Ridgeline length of 101 inches. Given the size of the hammock, should I change the location of the eyebolt?
    Do you mean at apex (top) joints? No, mark & drill your holes near top ends of poles just past the rubber feet, and use your suspension and the fulcrum(base) cord length to adjust for length of hammock & preferred sit height. For your 101" ridgeline (about 8.5 ft), the "typical" pole length of 100" +/- a few inches gives you a stand that will easily work, and fits 11ft tarp.

    IMO there's no need for eyebolts. I prefer to keep mine as simple, sleek, and light as possible with minimal hardware sticking out here and there. Maybe consider hex-head lag bolts instead: see post #1 above. Note that either eye or lag bolts are subject to bending due to necessary multi-plane movement of the top joints. Or perhaps try no-bolt joints from Amsteel soft shackles as in the original commercial Tensa4, or CLs as fivefreds shows in his post just above this. HYOH as always!
    If you go with eyebolts, a quick safety note: Don't hang your hammock from the eyes unless they're welded closed. Otherwise the eye almost certainly will open under the load and drop you. Instead, just loop your hammock suspension & tether(s) either around the top ends of the poles or in the joints between them. Check out Shug's excellent & highly entertaining video demonstrating set-up and use of the commercial Tensa4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PlOp6NPOuA Your cordage doesn't need to be as complex as the commercial one, but the video shows what a cleverly designed system it is.
    I really like that with the DIY version I can fold up everything just as it is in the morning, ready for super-quick set-up later. (well, the tarp and UQ pack up separately, but hammock with suspension, tether cords all intact can just be furled in place around the poles.) That alone was enough to sell me on the stand design, but the physics "magic" of it is cool, too!
    Go make your stand. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I do mine!

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Piedmont NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by fivefreds View Post
    Thanks! I was originally going to use a hardware-based solution for "lashing" the poles (eye bolts & quick links), but after reading some of the threads here I was worried about the eye bolts shearing due to twist-and-torque forces (I'm 6'4" x 320 lbs). My first setup didn't have any grommets; I just drilled 3/8" holes & smoothed them off with a round file. Didn't really notice any fraying of the Amsteel, but I can see how it might become a problem so I added the grommets as a precaution. I had to widen the holes to 1/2" to make the them fit, but the effective opening after the grommets are installed is still 3/8".

    Found the grommets on Amazon:

    Grommets.JPG
    Thanks for the grommet info, fivefreds! I'll get some for my brother's fence rail stand. Like you, I'm not a fan of all that hardware for flexible joints. I decided on soft shackles but needed what I have for a guest's setup and out of Amsteel to make more, so for now I'm using wire-rope loops for the joints. Your CL joints are easier to make than SSs, less cordage, and less fiddly to set up with my fumble-fingers, so I'll probably do that when I get more Amsteel. Wire rope loops are working well for now, so I'm in no big rush to change them. Not as pleasing aesthetically as Amsteel loops, but functional. (Who am I kidding? The poles are bare-metal EMT!)
    I just did some quick arithmetic re. smaller grommets in 3/4" EMT: I doubt it's possible to have grommets with OD to fit 1/4" or slightly bigger hole in pole and also ID big enough for a CL of 7/64" Amsteel with even a very tight fold to squeeze it through (right on the edge of 1/4", but more with the splice). I'd need grommets that are bigger on the inside than on the outside! Not likely in this world, so I'll enlarge the pole holes to 5/16" (my guesstimated safe max for 3/4" thin wall EMT) and depend on careful filing, a short bit of drilled-through wood dowel inside, and maybe a ring of silicone RTV gasket goo or some such around the holes. Or stick with wire rope for a while and see how it fares.
    I hope your grommets last a while. Sacrificial grommets are cheap & easy enough to replace if they do get cut by the Amsteel.
    Your stand certainly looks to be solid and sturdy now. Hang happy, and may all your tacos be the tasty kind!

  5. #25
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    US- Ohio
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    Dutch 12' Netless
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail Trekking View Post
    Your post has motivated me to give this stand a shot. I purchased the materials at Lowe’s yesterday and will throw it together Friday evening. I will be attaching a warbonnet blackbird to the stand. It has a Ridgeline length of 101 inches. Given the size of the hammock, should I change the location of the eyebolt?
    I would not think you'd have to. However you can tie the poles together with paracord and see how the hammock hangs at various heights. Tying is not strong enough to hold you as the cords will slip down the EMT, however it will hold the hammock to view the hang.

  6. #26
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    US- Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhollyHamaca View Post
    ...IMO there's no need for eyebolts. I prefer to keep mine as simple, sleek, and light as possible with minimal hardware sticking out here and there. Maybe consider hex-head lag bolts instead: see post #1 above. Note that either eye or lag bolts are subject to bending due to necessary multi-plane movement of the top joints. ... If you go with eyebolts, a quick safety note: Don't hang your hammock from the eyes Instead, just loop your hammock suspension & tether(s) either around the top ends of the poles or in the joints between them.
    You would not want to use lag bolts, you need the nut and washer to hold the hex/eye bolt. Relying on the threads of a lag bolt in metal is not a good idea. FYI. The bolted to joint is not subject to bending due to multi-plane movement. Bolting the joint removes the randomness of the top joint loading. By bolting and using the spacer the bolt acts as a fixed-fixed beam. Loaded in the center (thus the spacer), the hammock load is transferred to the pipes a shear load. If you are at all concerned use a grade 5 or 8 bolt or even a shear bolt. The reason there is no multi-plane loading is that the joint at the ground is free to rotate. Thus the bolted top joint fixes the two pole into one unit that simply follows an arc around the base where the poles meet. You would be correct here if someone bolted both the top and foot joints. That is not desirable.

    IMHO: I think the non fixed top joint derives from the initial motivation to create a back-packable stand and Latherdome was using carbon fiber poles. With that initial set up a bolted joint did not meet his needs.

    As for the use of eye bolts... They were initially put there to make hanging the tarp quick and easy. I am now using them as a quick tie point for the foot and head end tethers. But you are again correct in that they are not required. They are a convenience feature.

    One last modification I made is I found 3/4" PEX pipe end plugs over in the LOWES plumbing department. These inserted into the EMT pipe ends makes a super neat and clean finish and looks 100% better than rubber chair leg or cane tips.

  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Hammock
    banana-shaped
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    greenish
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    DYI Tensahedron Hammock Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    Bolting the joint removes the randomness of the top joint loading. By bolting and using the spacer the bolt acts as a fixed-fixed beam. Loaded in the center (thus the spacer), the hammock load is transferred to the pipes a shear load. [...] IMHO: I think the non fixed top joint derives from the initial motivation to create a back-packable stand and Latherdome was using carbon fiber poles. With that initial set up a bolted joint did not meet his needs. [...] One last modification I made is I found 3/4" PEX pipe end plugs over in the LOWES plumbing department. These inserted into the EMT pipe ends makes a super neat and clean finish and looks 100% better than rubber chair leg or cane tips.
    Jeff-oh, I admire your approach of loading from a spacer on a bolt between the poles. Certainly avoids the hazards of loading from either end, particularly if cantilevered any distance as with an eye. While sound, I don't see it as a plain improvement over the non-fixed cordage joint we're using in the commercial version, and that many use in DIY projects. Structurally, the load equalizes itself on both poles, as any initial imbalance causes a lean that can only result in the imbalance going to zero. The cordage similarly can't apply the load unevenly like hardware, sort of like how a hammock can't very well apply uneven pressure points to the body, the tension distributing itself automatically. Cordage joints also let the poles be symmetrical/reversible for simplicity of construction and assembly. They're also lighter. They do require attention to line condition, with wearing edges a particular concern.

    The carbon fiber prototype was indeed meant to be very light, but it used flexible reinforced hose segments slipped over the tubing ends as joints. Symmetry, simplicity, light weight, adjustability, serviceability motivate the cordage approach. Raftingtigger lead the way on the cordage joints, with plenty of tester feedback. The use of furniture tips on all 8 ends was similarly motivated by desire for symmetry (no top/bottom diff, reversible) and ease of replacement. Functionally, they must be non-slip for safe use on hard surfaces, and present minimal gouge/poke hazard to walls and ceilings (and people) at the apexes. Smaller cleaner neater ends don't work as well on these fronts. The feet now coming into production do look a bit cooler than what shipped on v1 stands though.
    Last edited by Latherdome; 09-04-2018 at 12:57.
    --
    Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/

  8. #28

    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Woods Cross, UT
    Hammock
    Dream Hammock Sparrow
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    3 night family outing at a camp in Fishlake National Forest, UT. Passed on the cabin cots in favor of my new Dream Hammock Sparrow, new DIY fulcrum tensahedron stand, Chill Gorilla Fortress tarp w/ Dutchware pole mod kit & Hook Worms, Costco Down Throw under quilt & top quilt. 2nd stand set up for afternoon napping in the CG Double hammock.

    Gooseberry1.jpg
    Gooseberry2.jpg
    Gooseberry3.jpg
    Gooseberry5.jpg
    Enjoying my fall into the rabbit hole...

  9. #29
    New Member Trail Trekking's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Cheshire, Connecticut
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    Has anyone considered these for a DIY collapsible tensahedron stand? Four 8-foot poles would run you $80. If you wanted 10 or 12 foot poles you could buy one more pack and add 1 or 2 per pole.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072J4HZ5M#Ask


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Senior Member jeff-oh's Avatar
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    FiveFreds, That looks awesome. I really like the way your tarp hangs with the cross poles. There sure are lots of ways to do the various aspects. Makes everything fun as people find what right for them.

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