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  1. #21
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Can't lie... Though I have three sets of 15' straps the one 8' and one 6' get me through most situations. I could leave the ucrs and take the 15' straps but I really like the Dynaglide ucrs!

    Hmmmm... Maybe I take the 15's and a single ucr... Almost makes no sense. Just take a dog bone...


    Sent from somewhere east of Montauk...
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
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  2. #22
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    FYI, from my testing of various UHMWPE (Dyneema) webbings becket hitched to 7/64" continuous loops...the beckett will start slipping between about 225 and 500 lbs of force depending on the weave and denier of the webbing. Inserting a second bight of slack into the first bight and then cinching it down seems to about double the slip point.

  3. #23
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    FYI, from my testing of various UHMWPE (Dyneema) webbings becket hitched to 7/64" continuous loops...the beckett will start slipping between about 225 and 500 lbs of force depending on the weave and denier of the webbing. Inserting a second bight of slack into the first bight and then cinching it down seems to about double the slip point.
    I've got to say I'm quite surprised to read that!

    Have you tested the J-Bend? It is essentially a MSH with the tail bight acting as a toggle. I don't see how it could slip, but I guess you don't know until you test.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  4. #24
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    Haven't tested the J bend. But a marlinspike onto a stick starts to slip at 200 something pounds (with dyneema webbing that would hold a single slipped becket to 400) if you loop the CL onto the toggle facing the wrong direction, however if it is looped on in the correct direction it will hold till about 400 lbs, then it will roll the bottom part of the knot over to the side of the toggle and stop there (you would possibly be able to feel this happen from inside the hammock) from that point it seems to pretty much hold without slipping until the stick breaks... a 3/4" pine/fir toggle seems to break in the 700-900 lbs range. I had not heard about any difference in the way you loop the CL onto the toggle so It surprised me a bit, but it does seems to make a big difference in the way it is looped on there.

    The top most part of the marlinspike knot does a 180 deg bend around the standing part of the line, if your cl is looped on so it matches that exactly, then it is the weaker version, however if it is instead a mirror opposite I don't think you would need to worry about it slipping.

  5. #25
    HangingOut's Avatar
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    Just an FYI, I had 1/8" amsteel becket hitched to the 1/8" amsteel CL of my hammock one night and it slipped out and I landed on my butt. And I only weigh 145 lbs. Luckily I was hanging low over soft ground. But it disrupted my nights' sleep for sure.

  6. #26
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    The becket hitch is a winner. A bit of a concern when it connects directly to the CL in that it isn't exactly easy to make minor adjustments in the suspension. Not terribly difficult, but not easy. That goes double (or triple) for the J bend (I suppose it's technically a "hitch"...) attached directly to the CL. Problem goes away with either when a WS or UCR is part of the suspension of course.

  7. #27
    HangingOut's Avatar
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    One reason I love the becket is that it is infinitely adjustable. I am usually in alpine terrain (or even in the transition zone nearing tree line). I find anchor points that range between 12' to 25' apart, with maybe lots of brush and low hanging tree limbs sticking out (once I had to use a climbing cam in the rocks on one end). Realistically, the becket hitch is more versatile than than all others, in my opinion.

  8. #28
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    Haven't tested the J bend. But a marlinspike onto a stick starts to slip at 200 something pounds (with dyneema webbing that would hold a single slipped becket to 400) if you loop the CL onto the toggle facing the wrong direction, however if it is looped on in the correct direction it will hold till about 400 lbs, then it will roll the bottom part of the knot over to the side of the toggle and stop there (you would possibly be able to feel this happen from inside the hammock) from that point it seems to pretty much hold without slipping until the stick breaks... a 3/4" pine/fir toggle seems to break in the 700-900 lbs range. I had not heard about any difference in the way you loop the CL onto the toggle so It surprised me a bit, but it does seems to make a big difference in the way it is looped on there.

    The top most part of the marlinspike knot does a 180 deg bend around the standing part of the line, if your cl is looped on so it matches that exactly, then it is the weaker version, however if it is instead a mirror opposite I don't think you would need to worry about it slipping.
    Trying to get my head around the right and wrong way..

    Can you clarify? Two ways you position the MSH.. When the top of the MSH does the 180, as you describe, the standing part of the line is visible on the top of the knot/toggle. If you flip it over so the standing line is on the back side of the knot? is that what you're referring to? I never do it that way.. always have the toggle on the top side of the standing line so the 180 turn is visible and drop the fixed eye over that so it's resting on the standing line, following the 180. Never had it slip with dyneema webbing, but then I am not that heavy..
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  9. #29
    Senior Member Baka Dasai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    The top most part of the marlinspike knot does a 180 deg bend around the standing part of the line, if your cl is looped on so it matches that exactly, then it is the weaker version, however if it is instead a mirror opposite I don't think you would need to worry about it slipping.
    So, it's "that" way, not "this" way.

    See this thread to see what I'm talking about:
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...itch-which-way

  10. #30
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baka Dasai View Post
    So, it's "that" way, not "this" way.

    See this thread to see what I'm talking about:
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...itch-which-way
    Hmm.. well... I've been doing it "this" way all along with no problems and my friend who introduced me to hammocking and MSH/toggle—and who weighs 270#—has no problems with it.

    If you know the MSH you're 99% on the way to a J-Bend. As far as slippage, there's a wagon load of friction in there and I don't see how the CL could "suck" that tail bight through the MSH loop, but I've been wrong before.

    Loose, to show how it's tied, and cinched: JBend_loose_01.jpg JBend_cinched_01.jpg
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
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