Whoopie Loop Lost In The Bury!

[Baka Dasai]

I use some thin cord to tie a small whipping knot at the beginning of the adjustable loop. This not only stops the loop from being sucked into itself, it creates a convenient "grab handle" when adjusting the whoopie.

[MAD777]

The common practice when doing any splicing is to taper the bury so as not to create a weak spot. I didn't see it mentioned but shouldn't this internal stopper be tapered (on both ends) too?

Here's my worthless opinion. I do not taper the end that would enter the whoopie bury. Normally, this is a no-no. But, the load is carried by two strands in the adjustable loop. Therefore, I give myself a pass.
Just beyond the bury, before the fixed eye, the entire load is taken by only one strand, the weak link.

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[Heavyhiker]

I use Dutch's whoopie hooks on the adjustable end. The fixed end I larks head to my straps, the whoopie hooks go to the continuous loops on my hammock. That way, the loop never gets lost in the bury and it's easy to unhook my suspension and put it in a separate bag in case of tree sap, etc.

[gmcttr]

The common practice when doing any splicing is to taper the bury so as not to create a weak spot. I didn't see it mentioned but shouldn't this internal stopper be tapered (on both ends) too?

Not an important consideration since the load is shared between the "two" sides of the whoopie loop. There just isn't enough of a load to be concerned.

[jeff-oh]

To get back on topic,

These are two methods that I have used:
You can take a needle or a crochet hook and gently work the loop back out.
Be careful not to snag too many of the individual fibers. And worked a little backed out.

If 1/8 inch dyneema or more then you can feed a thin wire loop through the bury and out the far side of the bury pull the rope through to loop eye and pull the Wire back out. The dyneema loop will be caught in the wire and pulled back out also.

HTHs

[Phantom Grappler]

I’m guessing—-again
Try to loosen outer bury by gentle mallet taps, protected by cloth. (both sides)
Or try to loosen outer bury by scrunching outer bury just past bury exit and try to work any slack towards buried loop.
Grab inner bury with a pliers (protect with cloth), and try to pull it while someone helps by holding outer bury and pushing it off.
And Jeff’s idea with a needle might work best.
Knots have been loosened with mallet taps. And expert splicers use a mallet to tap outer bury when inner bury needs it looser to advance.

[TominMN]

Here's my worthless opinion. I do not taper the end that would enter the whoopie bury. Normally, this is a no-no. But, the load is carried by two strands in the adjustable loop. Therefore, I give myself a pass.
Just beyond the bury, before the fixed eye, the entire load is taken by only one strand, the weak link.

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Not an important consideration since the load is shared between the "two" sides of the whoopie loop. There just isn't enough of a load to be concerned.

I agree. After posting, I thought about the fact that it was on the loop and the "problem" would be minimized.


Another solution for an after-the-fact stopper would be a split ring.

[Privateer6]

Another solution for an after-the-fact stopper would be a split ring.

THAT. IS . AN. AWESOME. IDEA!