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  1. #11
    Senior Member jcksparow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hutzelbein View Post
    Thanks. Maybe I'll devise a break test.
    Be curious to see the results of that myself.
    "Now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." -Mark Twain

  2. #12
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    I have a confession. I have a set of the ENO Helios straps, which are strangely made. One of the strange things is the bury on the adjustable loop is only 2.5”. I haven’t had a problem with them slipping, to my surprise. My speculation is that they intentionally made it short so it would slip before something else breaks? Perhaps that sort of *** covering is what you hav3 to do when you are a big company? In contrast, I make whoopie slings with an 8” bury on the adjustable loop - more than 3 times as much.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    Yes, your understanding is flawed. The proper bury length for an eye splice would be the same with or without a locked brummel. During destructive testing the bury of a proper eye splice will not pull out even without a locked brummel or lock stitching. The intent of the brummel is not to add extra holding power but only an alternate to stitching as a method to prevent the bury from backing out under no-load conditions.

    Keep in mind that eye splices are used in testing to determine the tensile strength of amsteel blue so a proper eye splice provides the full rated strength. The reason we get by with shorter than recommended buries is because we are not coming close to stressing the bury's to the ropes full tensile strength.
    I cannot refute any of that from a technical standpoint, but I have been splicing my own whoopies for years for tree rigging. The heaviest piece I know of that I've rigged out was 8-1/2' long with an average diameter of 28", estimated weight 1650#. That was on a whoopie made of 3/4" Tenex. The first whoopie I spliced up I didn't lock-stitch it because I was in a hurry. It didn't take long for the tail to escape. I went on using it for a while with the tail unburied, and the locked Brummel never failed.

    I made up a couple of hammock whoopies using 1/4" Amsteel. I buried about 4" below the locked Brummel. I did 10" for the adjustment bury. On the tail end, I only buried about 3", as its only purpose is to create a "nub" so it won't be drawn into the whoopie. No need to make a long bury here unless you just want to. I also don't taper the bury on the tail, as I want a big bulge. On my tree whoopies, I taper the bury under the Brummel, as it retains more strength than a blunt tail bury.


  4. #14
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    Here's a two-ring sling I spliced up a couple of weeks ago, using 3/4" Tenex. It's a locked Brummel under two "legs", each of which is eye-spliced around a ring.

    (I love splicing...)


  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    ...The reason we get by with shorter than recommended buries is because we are not coming close to stressing the bury's to the ropes full tensile strength.
    Quote Originally Posted by born2climb View Post
    ...The heaviest piece I know of that I've rigged out was 8-1/2' long with an average diameter of 28", estimated weight 1650#. That was on a whoopie made of 3/4" Tenex....I went on using it for a while with the tail unburied, and the locked Brummel never failed...
    Once again, you got by with it because you were not coming close to stressing the locked brummel to the ropes full tensile strength (and the un-buried tail was evidently long enough to keep it from unraveling under tension).

    The average breaking strength of 3/4" Tenex is 22,400 lbs.

    Splicing can be fun, but stitching by hand is a pain...


  6. #16
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    gmcttr, I know you right.
    I’m skeeerd of heights, when you go way up a tree or an overhang—-you know your knots and ropes—-your life is on the line. Thank you for great help.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #17
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    going to be making a a few dog bones with 7/64 amsteel for a new hammock suspension and thinking now will do 8" bury. have seen people add a extra inch for each to length to accommodate for a 4" bury, now assuming 2" for a 8" bury.

    is there any particular formula for how much length a bury takes from over all end product?

  8. #18
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    I don’t know length of bury
    Samson ropes has some formulas
    I’d watch a three or four splicing videos and use a high average
    Length of finished bury is different (shorter) than amsteel you start with.
    Someone who knows will help soon
    Good luck

  9. #19
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    nOObhere, are you gonna use a locked brummel or are you gonna sew stitches through both inner and outer parts of bury. There are YouTube videos for those and also animated versions on Grogg Knot Apps. I used locked brummels.
    Make sure you taper—it makes less strain on outer part of bury—and makes it much easier to insert splice and advance it through itself.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by n00bhere View Post
    ...is there any particular formula for how much length a bury takes from over all end product?
    No formula that I know of.

    A little 'trial and error' will quickly provide the info you need. Just do a few plain buries without locked brummels so you can pull them back out without losing any rope.

    It's been so long since I spliced that I had to spend a couple of minutes doing a test splice in 7/64" Amsteel.

    I marked 8" as my entry and exit points on the exterior sheath of the bury which ended up with a 6 1/2" bury so your assumption of +2" would be about right for a full 8" bury.

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