I have a confession. I have a set of the ENO Helios straps, which are strangely made. One of the strange things is the bury on the adjustable loop is only 2.5”. I haven’t had a problem with them slipping, to my surprise. My speculation is that they intentionally made it short so it would slip before something else breaks? Perhaps that sort of *** covering is what you hav3 to do when you are a big company? In contrast, I make whoopie slings with an 8” bury on the adjustable loop - more than 3 times as much.
I cannot refute any of that from a technical standpoint, but I have been splicing my own whoopies for years for tree rigging. The heaviest piece I know of that I've rigged out was 8-1/2' long with an average diameter of 28", estimated weight 1650#. That was on a whoopie made of 3/4" Tenex. The first whoopie I spliced up I didn't lock-stitch it because I was in a hurry. It didn't take long for the tail to escape. I went on using it for a while with the tail unburied, and the locked Brummel never failed.
I made up a couple of hammock whoopies using 1/4" Amsteel. I buried about 4" below the locked Brummel. I did 10" for the adjustment bury. On the tail end, I only buried about 3", as its only purpose is to create a "nub" so it won't be drawn into the whoopie. No need to make a long bury here unless you just want to. I also don't taper the bury on the tail, as I want a big bulge. On my tree whoopies, I taper the bury under the Brummel, as it retains more strength than a blunt tail bury.
Here's a two-ring sling I spliced up a couple of weeks ago, using 3/4" Tenex. It's a locked Brummel under two "legs", each of which is eye-spliced around a ring.
(I love splicing...)
Once again, you got by with it because you were not coming close to stressing the locked brummel to the ropes full tensile strength (and the un-buried tail was evidently long enough to keep it from unraveling under tension).
The average breaking strength of 3/4" Tenex is 22,400 lbs.
Splicing can be fun, but stitching by hand is a pain...
gmcttr, I know you right.
I’m skeeerd of heights, when you go way up a tree or an overhang—-you know your knots and ropes—-your life is on the line. Thank you for great help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
going to be making a a few dog bones with 7/64 amsteel for a new hammock suspension and thinking now will do 8" bury. have seen people add a extra inch for each to length to accommodate for a 4" bury, now assuming 2" for a 8" bury.
is there any particular formula for how much length a bury takes from over all end product?
I don’t know length of bury
Samson ropes has some formulas
I’d watch a three or four splicing videos and use a high average
Length of finished bury is different (shorter) than amsteel you start with.
Someone who knows will help soon
Good luck
nOObhere, are you gonna use a locked brummel or are you gonna sew stitches through both inner and outer parts of bury. There are YouTube videos for those and also animated versions on Grogg Knot Apps. I used locked brummels.
Make sure you taper—it makes less strain on outer part of bury—and makes it much easier to insert splice and advance it through itself.
No formula that I know of.
A little 'trial and error' will quickly provide the info you need. Just do a few plain buries without locked brummels so you can pull them back out without losing any rope.
It's been so long since I spliced that I had to spend a couple of minutes doing a test splice in 7/64" Amsteel.
I marked 8" as my entry and exit points on the exterior sheath of the bury which ended up with a 6 1/2" bury so your assumption of +2" would be about right for a full 8" bury.
Bookmarks