I've always attach my tarp directly to the suspension, just use shock cord on your tie outs to absorb the slack when you get in it that will eliminate the sagging problem, it has always worked quite well for me;<) 20161104_172058.jpg20161104_172058.jpg20161201_161705.jpg20170504_193206.jpg
By all means, let's argue about whether or not a hammock will hurt a tree. All the while ignoring the fact that there is an island of garbage the size of Texas floating in the Pacific ocean. Or how about the fact that over 75% of the world's nuclear reactors are leaking...
My tarp ridgeline is attached to hammock suspension. Not for everybody.
If tarp and hammock suspensions are separate, then you can lower tarp low and tight for rain. And you can put them up on different sets of trees at same time. And easier to keep wet suspension from dry hammock.
I does not care—-all suspension are together and the same for me. I’m glad we can choose to rig crib as we see fit
Great photos Carrico
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MikekiM are you and Squidmark gonna have tarp height adjustable—-high4porchmode and low&tight4rain?Originally Posted by MikekiM
Please post pictures when it’s a go, thanks.
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For a SLS yes, works easy. Keys are to use shock cord on tieouts (otherwise I never do) and not use any kind of pole mods. Also, don't bother trying to make it ultra taut, you'll just wind up chasing your tail. Bill Townshend had offered a neat method whereby one could take up excess tarp slack once sitting in the hammock. I have yet to give it a try.
There are photos around here between Mike and I, but I've been out of the picture lately. Feel free so sift through our galleriies. I'm sure Mike will be along in a bit to elaborate.
As Sqidmark noted, yes.. It's all pretty simple.
The one caveat, as Sqid noted is that you can't use a pole mod, which I love and miss. I don't think either of us have tried using panel pulls yet.. that might work better. I've also tried to use it with an Asym tarp and that didn't go well thus far. I see the Single Line Suspension (SLS) as a best fit for when you're running ultra lite. A second caveat to add is that it works best with a smaller tarp. As you will see, a longer ridge length will limit how low you can go. I have given thought to adding a second set of ridge tie-out points about six inches in from each end of my tarps... just in case.
Note...All of my tarps have diamond knots at the ridge tie out points. For other than the SLS, I use mini ucrs with fixed eyes that drop over the diamond knot and lock via a locked sliding whipping knot.
The SLS consists of a single 12' or 15' tree strap.. I have been using either MyersTech or Dutch Spider Strap dyneema straps. The hammock connection is a Dutch Double Whoopie Hook (DWH), used like a Speed Hook. A dynaglide prussik is on the dyneema strap above the hammock attachment point and to the prussik is a length of zingit, tied with an Albright Knot (or locked onto button knot as shown), with the Dutch Hook Worm threaded on.
This is my final working setup. I added the button knot to the dynaglide prussik, just because... it's not needed.
In practice, the DWH slides easily on the dyneema strap to position the hammock and is locked in place with a slippery half hitch pulled under the section between the eyes of DWH. In fact, if the wind is light, the DWH bites the strap just enough to stay put without locking, so you can adjust hammock height easily, and then lock it off.
The Dutch Hook Worm hooks onto the tarps diamond knot, just under the knot and the zingit is then used to tension the tarp via the Hook Worm. It really just needs to be snug.. you'll never get the tarp ridge drum tight. The prussik slides up and down the strap to position the height of the tarp. Tarp ridge length will be the determining factor as to how low to the hammocks SRL you can get and shock cord at the tarps ground points keeps everything relatively tight when the hammock is loaded.
I found the tendency of dyneema straps to bunch up in a cord-like shape really annoying, but in this use that is actually a benefit allowing both the prussik and DWH to slide up and down the strap easily.
What we have found, is that once all is set as noted above, loading the hammock doesn't cause the tarp to go slack. However, if a traditional pole is used under or over the tarp, the tarp just flattens out, not being able to resist the tension of the pole.
Last, if one is opposed to hardware, which as a general rule.. I am, the DWH can be omitted and the a J-bend can be used to tie off directly to the hammocks CL and a mini ucr can be installed on the zingit to handle tensioning duties in place of the Hook Worm.
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
Just setup this morning in the Hammock Lab.. I am surprised how quick and easy it goes up and adjusts.As Sqidmark noted, yes.. It's all pretty simple.
The one caveat, as Sqid noted is that you can't use a pole mod, which I love and miss. I don't think either of us have tried using panel pulls yet.. that might work better. I've also tried to use it with an Asym tarp and that didn't go well thus far. I see the Single Line Suspension (SLS) as a best fit for when you're running ultra lite. A second caveat to add is that it works best with a smaller tarp. As you will see, a longer ridge length will limit how low you can go. I have given thought to adding a second set of ridge tie-out points about six inches in from each end of my tarps... just in case.
Note...All of my tarps have diamond knots at the ridge tie out points. For other than the SLS, I use mini ucrs with fixed eyes that drop over the diamond knot and lock via a locked sliding whipping knot.
The SLS consists of a single 12' or 15' tree strap.. I have been using either MyersTech or Dutch Spider Strap dyneema straps. The hammock connection is a Dutch Double Whoopie Hook (DWH), used like a Speed Hook. A dynaglide prussik is on the dyneema strap above the hammock attachment point and to the prussik is a length of zingit, tied with an Albright Knot (or locked onto button knot as shown), with the Dutch Hook Worm threaded on.
This is my final working setup. I added the button knot to the dynaglide prussik, just because... it's not needed.
In practice, the DWH slides easily on the dyneema strap to position the hammock and is locked in place with a slippery half hitch pulled under the section between the eyes of DWH. In fact, if the wind is light, the DWH bites the strap just enough to stay put without locking, so you can adjust hammock height easily, and then lock it off.
The Dutch Hook Worm hooks onto the tarps diamond knot, just under the knot and the zingit is then used to tension the tarp via the Hook Worm. It really just needs to be snug.. you'll never get the tarp ridge drum tight. The prussik slides up and down the strap to position the height of the tarp. Tarp ridge length will be the determining factor as to how low to the hammocks SRL you can get and shock cord at the tarps ground points keeps everything relatively tight when the hammock is loaded.
I found the tendency of dyneema straps to bunch up in a cord-like shape really annoying, but in this use that is actually a benefit allowing both the prussik and DWH to slide up and down the strap easily.
What we have found, is that once all is set as noted above, loading the hammock doesn't cause the tarp to go slack. However, if a traditional pole is used under or over the tarp, the tarp just flattens out, not being able to resist the tension of the pole.
Last, if one is opposed to hardware, which as a general rule.. I am, the DWH can be omitted and the a J-bend can be used to tie off directly to the hammocks CL and a mini ucr can be installed on the zingit to handle tensioning duties in place of the Hook Worm.
Straps on trees, hook the tarp on and hook the hammock on.
Plus the DWH’s create an excellent water break.
Took all of a minute to raise and lower the tarp. I’ve become fond of raising just the foot end...
Sent from somewhere east of Montauk...
Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
Bob's brother-in-law
A blend of knots (most of them tied ONE time)
and some of Dutch’s finest hardware—-to make a light and easy to use set up——fantastical
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This is my preferred way also. You quickly learn how much overhang you need on one side to get it right. If it is raining when I set up I think the "Manhattan Clothesline" would be nice but there are pros and cons to each way.
20160918_225912.jpg 20161201_161705.jpg
Maybe I miss read something but I use a pole mod with my set up with no issues.:<) oh I see, you're talking about a single line suspension. I guess mine technically is not a single line, seems how I use two separate suspensions one on each end.
And as far as adjusting the height of the tarp goes I have no issue with that either. I just loosen the prusik knot that attach the tarp to the hammock suspension and then pull the sides down further with the tie outs. it does create a little bit of a belly in the tarp but I've never had a problem with water getting in or pooling.
Here's a shot of the suspension I use, it's just dyneema webbing with a Dutch hook larks headed to a piece of 7/16 amsteel using a prusik knot to attach the tarp to and using a set of double whoopie hooks as speed hooks with a half twist knot securing the speed hook.20180510_104417.jpg
Last edited by Carrico; 05-10-2018 at 12:47.
By all means, let's argue about whether or not a hammock will hurt a tree. All the while ignoring the fact that there is an island of garbage the size of Texas floating in the Pacific ocean. Or how about the fact that over 75% of the world's nuclear reactors are leaking...
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