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  1. #11
    Senior Member hutzelbein's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Germany
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    WBBB SL 1.7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4evrplan View Post
    The shipping estimate it showed me was $15, not $4.25. This for $30.25 worth of product. If it had said $4.25, I wouldn't have bothered asking about it. I'm not necessarily saying I wouldn't pay $15 for shipping, but yeah, it might effect my decision to do it or not, so I just wanted to know if it was accurate or if it would change at order time.
    Sometimes it's a good idea to play around a bit; add goods, delete goods and see how it affects the shipping costs. I don't think it will make a huge difference for US buyers, but for international buyers shipping sometimes increases by $10.00 when you add a Dutch Hook, simply because it tipped the scales towards the next higher shipping class. If in doubt, you can always e-mail the people at Dutch. Glitches sometimes do happen, but they're good at fixing them IF somebody tips them off

  2. #12
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    new zealand
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    DIY gathered end
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    I agree with hardware but sometimes its the best way to go.

    I think you should read threads on UCR's before committing.

    They work for some and fail for others.

    If i was setting up again i would go beetle buckles/dyneema webbing.

    I use treestraps and 3mm dyneema with a spliced loop and small homemade friction lock devices permanantly on the hammock.

    Most verdlsatile system ive used and devices only took 1 hour to make from 316stainless

  3. #13
    Senior Member QFT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Colorado
    Hammock
    Dutchware 11' netless
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    Myerstech dyneema
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4evrplan View Post
    Hutzelbein, I like your idea of testing the length before I cut. I may try that with another hammock.

    The shipping estimate it showed me was $15, not $4.25. This for $30.25 worth of product. If it had said $4.25, I wouldn't have bothered asking about it. I'm not necessarily saying I wouldn't pay $15 for shipping, but yeah, it might effect my decision to do it or not, so I just wanted to know if it was accurate or if it would change at order time.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    It's probably accurate. I ordered a 2.4 Hexon netless hammock and shipping was $12. I emailed them and they verified the shipping is correct. Basically, if your material has some bulk or weight to it, shipping will bump up.

    I once ordered some bling and a bunch of small stuff like alligator clips... that package was about $3 to ship.

  4. #14
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Jan 2007
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    Tupelo, MS
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4evrplan View Post
    From everyone's comments, it sounds like 47" x 104" should be enough. The narrow width might me a bigger concern than the length.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    One of my all time over all favs, Claytor No Net, is only 48" wide and 10 ft long(I am 6'1", 200-225- varies). It is overall at least tied at the top place for me comfort wise, though not perfect as none are for me. It's dimensions have never caused me actual comfort issues, but more like issues with accessories like TQs. With it being so skinny and shallow, it can be a challenge keeping a TQ in when I get out or remove it if too warm. Or if I am shifting around to my side, it is easy for my feet to slip off the edge, which means I must reposition again. But these have more to do with convenience than comfort. And since I mostly used this hammock with a wonderful Pea Pod, those issues were irrelevant. But become more relevant when using a regular TQ.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Nacogdoches, TX
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    Homemade 10.5ft 1.1 OSY Nylon DL
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadekayak View Post
    I agree with hardware but sometimes its the best way to go.

    I think you should read threads on UCR's before committing.

    They work for some and fail for others.

    If i was setting up again i would go beetle buckles/dyneema webbing.

    I use treestraps and 3mm dyneema with a spliced loop and small homemade friction lock devices permanantly on the hammock.

    Most verdlsatile system ive used and devices only took 1 hour to make from 316stainless
    Good advice, but I'm already using UCR's on another hammock, and I like them better than my other other hammock's whoopie. Yes, whoopie, singular. One of the whoopies got messed up, and I converted it into a UCR. BTW, the half n half hammock has Amsteel Blue on both ends, and the pure UCR hammock uses all Dynaglide. I feel the UCR's worked better with Dynaglide than AB for some reason, but YMMV.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    Member
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    Jan 2018
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    Portland, Oregon
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    DIY 10.5'
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4evrplan View Post
    From everyone's comments, it sounds like 47" x 104" should be enough. The narrow width might me a bigger concern than the length.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    I've considered the exact question you're posing, and I think I'm gonna go with 8.5x5' for my next build, probably using Robic 1.2 XL. I have a kammock that is 8.5 feet and about 4 feet wide. I'm 5'7" and find it reasonably comfortable, but you are right, the width can be an issue. My feet hang off if I try to get an asymmetrical lay. Not as comfortable as my 10.5x6' extra wide hammock, but everything is a trade off; comfort at camp vs comfort on the trail. FWIW, the big hammock I mentioned is only 3 oz more than the little kammock. That being said, the Kammock is made of a much sturdier (heavier) fabric.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by forces View Post
    I've considered the exact question you're posing, and I think I'm gonna go with 8.5x5' for my next build, probably using Robic 1.2 XL. I have a kammock that is 8.5 feet and about 4 feet wide. I'm 5'7" and find it reasonably comfortable, but you are right, the width can be an issue. My feet hang off if I try to get an asymmetrical lay. Not as comfortable as my 10.5x6' extra wide hammock, but everything is a trade off; comfort at camp vs comfort on the trail. FWIW, the big hammock I mentioned is only 3 oz more than the little kammock. That being said, the Kammock is made of a much sturdier (heavier) fabric.
    I've been thinking the exact same thing, that an extra foot of width would be worth the 1 ounce heavier weight (with Hexon 1.0). Estimated total weight would be about 6.2 ounces.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Jun 2016
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    If you go with only three yards of fabric, your finished gathered-end hammock will be 8'9" at best; remember that you almost certainly want to put in two rows of stitching on your sewn end channels (I always do three), and they need to have at least 1/4" between them. You are going to have a raw edge showing unless you dedicate another 3/8" to 1/2" to fold the hem on each end. Yes, your hammock will indeed be light, but with your minimalist design details, eventually you will pay the price in trailworthiness if you cut corners on construction methods. Your uberlight hammock will blow up on you eventually -- sooner rather than later compared to hammocks made more prudently and of sterner stuff -- so be prepared for that. If your hammock turns out to be wimpy in addition to being uncomfortable because it's too small, it might be worth it to review your intended goals for the project.

    Is small and light just for the sake of being small and light enough for you? Maybe. Maybe not...



    Forewarned, HYOH, and good luck....
    Last edited by kitsapcowboy; 04-12-2018 at 22:42.
    Smart graphic design for all your needs by BGD

  9. #19
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsapcowboy View Post
    If you go with only three yards of fabric, your finished gathered-end hammock will be 8'9" at best; remember that you almost certainly want to put in two rows of stitching on your sewn end channels (I always do three), and they need to have at least 1/4" between them. You are going to have a raw edge showing unless you dedicate another 3/8" to 1/2" to fold the hem on each end. Yes, your hammock will indeed be light, but with your minimalist design details, eventually you will pay the price in trailworthiness if you cut corners on construction methods. Your uberlight hammock will blow up on you eventually -- sooner rather than later compared to hammocks made more prudently and of sterner stuff -- so be prepared for that. If your hammock turns out to be wimpy in addition to being uncomfortable because it's too small, it might be worth it to review your intended goals for the project.

    Is small and light just for the sake of being small and light enough for you? Maybe. Maybe not...



    Forewarned, HYOH, and good luck....
    I was thinking of a finished length of 8'8", or slightly less. I'm definitely not going to leave a raw edge, and yes, triple stitching the end channels is what I have done in the past and what I will continue to do. What am I missing? Where am I cutting corners? Fabric selection? Or is your concern more that I won't be comfortable?

    The only other place I can see this might be cutting corners is I was thinking of using channels narrower than the usual 3", but if that puts more stress on the stitching or creates another problem, I will amend my plan.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

  10. #20
    Senior Member MDCrab's Avatar
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    Depending on what fabric you are using, is the comfort/weight ratio really worth the few oz you might save by eliminating X square feet of fabric? Could you cut these oz elsewhere in your gear and impact your comfort less? After all, better sleep could benefit your overall experience/performance. Just something to consider.
    Lucky me, lucky mud. - Kurt Vonnegut.

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