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  1. #11
    Member TreeRing's Avatar
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    This is awesome Cowboy! After reading your other posts, I was wondering how long it would be before you took a crack at creating your own tarp with 1/2 doors.

    I was all ready to try out your grosgrain methods on my first standard hex diy project but couldn't stop thinking about the 1/2 door concept on the Minifly. After lots of tinkering on graph paper and making my own paper design cutouts, I chickened out and bought a Mini, so I would be ready for a spring hang.

    Anyway, in case there's any doubt, you and Jellyfish (her videos are currently paused in the background) are doing great things for us diy newbies, so THANKS...you guys rock!






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  2. #12
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TreeRing View Post
    This is awesome Cowboy! After reading your other posts, I was wondering how long it would be before you took a crack at creating your own tarp with 1/2 doors.

    I was all ready to try out your grosgrain methods on my first standard hex diy project but couldn't stop thinking about the 1/2 door concept on the Minifly. After lots of tinkering on graph paper and making my own paper design cutouts, I chickened out and bought a Mini, so I would be ready for a spring hang.

    Anyway, in case there's any doubt, you and Jellyfish (her videos are currently paused in the background) are doing great things for us diy newbies, so THANKS...you guys rock!
    Welcome to the forum, TreeRing, and thank you very much for your kind words.

    I agree with you; jellyfish is the bomb.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Angle of mini doors

    Some of the design choices that have to be made are the angle of the door (angle b in my drawing) and length of the door (line c). A wider angle b would extend the doors out further. A narrower angle b would result in more vertical doors. Would you do anything different with your door angles next time?

    Screen Shot 2018-03-25 at 9.57.23 PM.jpg
    Last edited by Winnie; 03-25-2018 at 21:21.

  4. #14
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winnie View Post
    Some of the design choices that have to be made are the angle of the door (angle b in my drawing) and length of the door (line c). A wider angle b would extend the doors out further. A narrower angle b would result in more vertical doors. Would you do anything different with your door angles next time?
    Not really. My half doors seem to work pretty nicely as they are, providing some significant extra protection while being very easy to manage in different tarp configurations.

    In order to function well, the angle the doors take as they depart the ridge line tie-out is actually a function of the cutback angle of the tarp relative to the (approximately) horizontal ridge line. If the door angle is a reflection of the cutback angle (or, ideally, a few degrees more narrow than this angle) along a line between the RL tie-out and the corner tie-out on the ground edge -- i.e., the line the tarp edge would follow if it were a standard hex -- then the doors will pin back crisply the way they do on the Warbonnet tarps. This was my goal when I laid out the tarp pattern, and the tarp panel width, the cutback depth, the tarp's transverse stance, and the desired vertical drop of the doors all need to be considered to compute the correct shape of the half doors.

    I had the additional design consideration of keeping each cut tarp panel blank constrained to a 4-yard (144") run of silpoly while maintaining a finished ridge line length of 11 feet (132"), which limited my vertical drop and door angle slightly. In practice, because the tarp RL actually hangs in shallow catenary curve and because the doors need to pin back snugly or fold comfortably underneath, the abbreviated door shape actually works out great. (The doors are also cut on the bias and, as a result, exhibit some additional mild stretch in the weave under tension, giving an extra allowance when folded back to meet the RL.)

    If one were willing to next the two tarp panels Fronkey-style on a continuous 8-yard run of fabric, one could obtain greater latitude in designing the half doors; I was not.
    Last edited by kitsapcowboy; 03-25-2018 at 22:21.
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  5. #15
    Senior Member jcksparow's Avatar
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    I was pondering how best to modify this for a 12' ridge-line. If I used tarp panel blanks that were 4-½ yards (162") and allowed 146" for the ridge-line, this would give me roughly 8" of material extending from either ridge-line tie-out, as opposed to the 5" in your design. How would you modify the angles of the half-doors given that additional material to work with?
    "Now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." -Mark Twain

  6. #16
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcksparow View Post
    I was pondering how best to modify this for a 12' ridge-line. If I used tarp panel blanks that were 4-½ yards (162") and allowed 146" for the ridge-line, this would give me roughly 8" of material extending from either ridge-line tie-out, as opposed to the 5" in your design. How would you modify the angles of the half-doors given that additional material to work with?
    Actually, I wouldn't recommend you do anything to change the shape of the half doors, since they seem to work so well; instead, just stretch the tarp out. Mark 144" to 146" between the ridge line tie-outs along the top edge and use a 7-foot (approx 84") long 7" deep cat-cut on the ground edges, making it a foot longer in the middle but keeping the half doors exactly the same on each end. Nine yards of fabric is more than enough. HTH...

    FWIW, since I think about such things, I noticed that while you need 8 linear yards of waterproof fabric to make one (11-foot) Badlander, because of how each tarp panel can tessellate with the next (if you invert each one in sequence "Fronkey-style"), you can make a second (11-foot) Badlander with only an additional 6 yards (14 total), so theirs a bit of savings if you make more than one for friends and family. (Of course, if you stretch the ridge line or monkey with the door shape, all bets are off!)
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  7. #17
    Senior Member jcksparow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsapcowboy View Post
    Actually, I wouldn't recommend you do anything to change the shape of the half doors, since they seem to work so well; instead, just stretch the tarp out. Mark 144" to 146" between the ridge line tie-outs along the top edge and use a 7-foot (approx 84") long 7" deep cat-cut on the ground edges, making it a foot longer in the middle but keeping the half doors exactly the same on each end. Nine yards of fabric is more than enough. HTH...
    That makes sense. My follow-up question was going to be how deep to make the cat cuts on the ground edges, but you saved me the trouble!

    Incidentally, if we're merely extending the pattern by 12", it's possible to invert the one panel and still fit both on only 8 yards of fabric (by the narrowest of margins).
    "Now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." -Mark Twain

  8. #18
    Member Andymc's Avatar
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    Man, that is beautiful. Excellent job. I love my new Thunderfly, but sometimes I like the long panel of my Big Daddy tarp.
    You now have the perfect combination in my eyes! Thanks for sharing.


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  9. #19
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andymc View Post
    Man, that is beautiful. Excellent job. I love my new Thunderfly, but sometimes I like the long panel of my Big Daddy tarp.
    You now have the perfect combination in my eyes! Thanks for sharing.
    Hey, thanks, Andy. I appreciate that. So far, the Badlander is handling all the changeable spring weather we've been having really well. The half doors really do their job blocking the wind when it changes direction.
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  10. #20
    Senior Member kitsapcowboy's Avatar
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    Porch mode is pretty awesome on this tarp

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