Sewing Machine score or not???

[Roman3006]

I dont know anything about sewing machines. Nothing!!! Just watching the utube videos and looking at the material cost it seems a no brainer to make my own stuff. I read some of the threads on here and I remembered the name Pfaff. My first stop was at a Good Will today. They had a PFAFF 1222E for $29.99, I bought it.

Got home and it worked but the needle didnt move but it was bent once removed it worked. It was in a hard case with what looks like everything including the owners manual. From what I can see it is almost brand new not even dirty no scratches!! The inside the same way around the needle area very clean no use marks at all. My question is this a good deal? How much is this worth thinking maybe selling it and buying a new singer or brother. Advice?

[Roman3006]

Found a video on utube and found out how to open the cover just one small amount of lent in the bottom not even enough for me to be even concerned with. The insides look New so good, I dont think I even need to take it in to a sew shop for a once over.

[WoodlandNightHawk]

I don't see how you can go wrong if you keep forging ahead. There are hundreds of videos on YouTube. Also, a class at the local fabric store can get you kick started. If you can put together five drawstring bags, you've paid for the machine.

One of the things I realized in a former career is that behind every successful carpenter is a dumpster full of wasted lumber that was the price of success. Don't let mistakes slow you down.

[mrcheviot]

Yes, that's a very good deal. A good condition 1222e with case will easily sell for $225+. I've posted in a few different threads on here how nice the 12xx series is for DIY/MYOG projects.

Checklist of things to check is small:

• When you pop the top cover off, hopefully the belt is white to off-white. Not grey/black. If it's black, someone oiled something they shouldn't have. Not necessary indicative of a problem, but could mean the motor & belt area needs to be cleaned.
• There is a white cam gear sort of in the middle - inspect it thoroughly for cracks. It controls the utility stitches, which are the left bank of buttons on the top. If it's cracked, replacements can be found on eBay.
• Looking at the stitch selection dial, make sure the red dot above the needle position dial is centered at 12 o'clock.
• The "e" of the 1222e means it has a needle up assist when you lift the presser foot lever (so when you're done sewing the needle bar & hook automatically move to the position where you can remove your work). I think there may be "all the way down" point that lowers the needle into your work when you begin, I honestly don't recall. There's also a position (either w/ the presser foot lever or the inner knob of the hand wheel) for bobbin winding. I've briefly had a 1222e but tend to steer clear because the electronics don't do much and if they go it's expensive to fix, but before you get started at least get familiar with how the electronic assist bits work - there are manuals and videos.
• Check out the top speed of the machine. If it's too slow or too fast there's a screw that can be adjusted either way, need to remove the bottom for access. PM me and I can provide details.
• Lastly, remove the bobbin case and make sure the rotary hook is smooth and generally silent. The belts on these machines can be a little noisy, but the hook should not be. If it is PM me and I can share instructions for servicing it.

As far as using the machine, first and foremost do not oil the machine anywhere except the hook; look at the 9:00 position, and as it turns you'll eventually see two lines that are scored across the hook. That's where you put 2-3 drops of oil periodically, generally when the bobbin case starts clanking a bit.

Second, the tension disc can accommodate thread either above or below it (or both for double needle), I've always had better luck with it on top. To adjust tension, set the dial to 7, grab an old kitchen towel, and adjust bobbin case tension until it's correct (two different colored threads will help). At that point, the tension dial at 4-5 should work great with ripstop etc.

Lastly, the presser foot pressure isn't easily adjusted on the fly, but there is an adjustment. With the top off, on the left side you'll find an oblong hex-shaped washer with an off-center mounting hold. For the lowest pressure (which I recommend) you need to turn it so the distance between the spring lever and the mount hole is minimized. You'll figure it out when you try moving it.

Good luck!

[Roman3006]

Mr cheviot,

Thanks for that took a look at the belt it is white not one black mark and the cam gear is like new too. The whole inside is clean just a bit of lent in the bottom maybe 1/4 teaspoon size that is it, no rust any where. This thing is in mint condition to almost new from what I can tell. The manual looks like it has never even been opened. One thing I dont have any feet other than what is on it. Ill probably need some of those I guess.

Will this use reg needles or does it use a special pfaff needle? Got to do alot of research tonight.

[mrcheviot]

Mr cheviot,

Thanks for that took a look at the belt it is white not one black mark and the cam gear is like new too. The whole inside is clean just a bit of lent in the bottom maybe 1/4 teaspoon size that is it, no rust any where. This thing is in mint condition to almost new from what I can tell. The manual looks like it has never even been opened. One thing I dont have any feet other than what is on it. Ill probably need some of those I guess.

Will this use reg needles or does it use a special pfaff needle? Got to do alot of research tonight.

Nice, glad to hear that.

The presser feet for those can be hard to find. The machines will take just about any high-shank foot, however you really want ones that are IDT compatible (they'll have a gap in the back of them). It wasn't until about the 1217/1229 that this series started coming with snap on feet, and most of the ones those came with were IDT specific. The snap-on zipper foot in particular is _really_ good, enough to justify switching IMO.

The zipper foot I'm referring to is: https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/zi...f-snap-on.aspx (compared to the attached picture of the 1222 zipper foot, which is right side only).

Most snap on adapters will not fit that machine, you need one that has the right clearance for the IDT foot. See the second attachment for the difference.

https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/98-694581-00.php

is what comes with the 1217/1229, but the OEM part is hard to find and pricey. There does seem to be an aftermarket that will fit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pfaff-Snap-...t/282345791758

As far as the feet I'd get, the snap on IDT Zipper foot, a 1/4" IDT quilting foot (metal, clear, with or without guide - up to you), and this IDT Teflon foot (amazon link) are enough for 95% of your needs.

It uses normal domestic needles. It does not use normal class 15 or plastic bobbins, you need the metal Pfaff ones with the little indentation around the center (like these).

53694790563__3BB1A81E-6670-493B-A6C3-10645185DD8A.jpg53694807830__DEC8EAFF-49F4-41E7-B0A3-0C26AA651170.jpg

There's a Yahoo Pfaff group you can join for more info, very good resource. The back of your manual should have part numbers as well which can aid in searching, you may want to pick up a 1217 manual if you're after some of those presser foot part numbers.

LMK if you need more help.

[OlTrailDog]

I don't see how you can go wrong if you keep forging ahead. There are hundreds of videos on YouTube. Also, a class at the local fabric store can get you kick started. If you can put together five drawstring bags, you've paid for the machine.

One of the things I realized in a former career is that behind every successful carpenter is a dumpster full of wasted lumber that was the price of success. Don't let mistakes slow you down.

Looks like my secret is out!

I have a Pfaff 1199 Compact free arm, a Pfaff 230 free arm in a sewing table, and a Pfaff 130 flat bed work horse that I picked up at Goodwill or ebay (the 130). I am very much a hack compared to the gents above, but my skills have sufficed for stuff sacks, bishop bags, CDT UQ, to convert a down sleeping bag to a UQ, and etc. Right now, they are stored away while I build a home. But there is something special about those solid German workhorse machines that makes them special to use. Probably my imagination, But my wife's plastic Brother was a POA, and that is when I started down the Pfaff road.

[Roman3006]

I have decided to sale the Pfaff. I can use the profits to buy a modern sewing machine looking hard at the singer 44s at walmart or the singer 4432 or 4419.Should have enough left over to fund a complete hammock project- hammock, tarp, bug net, and a under quilt.

[mrcheviot]

Big mistake IMO, but your machine, your money. If you can take some pics I may know of a buyer, depending on your price.

[Roman3006]

Mrcheviot

I found the presser bar lifter in stock locally it was used and he let me have it for 5 dollars. Should have know, after cussing an fiddling with getting it on(not easy) for a hr the new one must have had a crack in it as it broke on the first flip of the lever. Then the guy that wanted to buy the machine started whining about the price so i just left him setting in a lowes parking lot. LOL Why people think they can negotiate a price after I have already told him no before we even meet is beyond me. He was out a hr drive each way.LOL

I will get this thing operational soon. Ordered alot of materials from rsbty to practice on. Figured i should actually practice with material i intend on using.

The dropbox you sent was alot of help thanks for that.