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  1. #1
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Townsend big guy bridge question

    Since the big guy bridge is double layer, is it possible to flip it over and hang with the inner layer outside, outer layer inside? Would this put extra stress on the hammock? Just curious if anyone has tried this.
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  2. #2
    Slugger's Avatar
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    Never tried it....but just out of curiosity, why?

    Without looking at the hammock in my hands, the pole attachment points would be in the same place, ends would be ok, only the storage pockets would be unavailable and hanging under the hammock. If anything, I would see an issue getting the ridgeline to be on the correct side maybe. Would have to pull out my BGBH to look.

    Am I missing something Bill? How about you chiming in on this question?
    Retired US Navy, 10-year Stage IIIb colon cancer survivor. I believe my last words will be "Hold my beer..."



  3. #3

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    Bill is always really good at answering questions about his bridges so I’d have to assume he just has not seen this post. I’ll give it my best shot as to why someone may want to be able to flip one of his bridges to use “upside down” so to speak. All of bills recessed bar bridges have a series of what you could call accessory attachment points throughout the hammock body on the inside of the bridge. I’ve never used them on mine but I have thought that if you flipped the hammock over (perfectly fine to do) they could be used to strap a sleeping pad to and use without laying directly on the pad. I’ve never tried it but have always wanted to see how it would work.
    just my thoughts.
    kris

  4. #4
    Slugger's Avatar
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    I just came back from 4 days in the woods using Bill's BGBH. Easy to solve the ridgeline issue...just take the ridgeline off each 'biner and once you flip the hammock, put the ridgeline back on the 'biners at each end. That way the ridgeline doesn't get twisted around the side support lines. ( the picture is the BGBH in the "normal configuration"...not upside down!)

    IMG_6176.jpg
    Retired US Navy, 10-year Stage IIIb colon cancer survivor. I believe my last words will be "Hold my beer..."



  5. #5
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    I was trying to find out if one was to make a diy copy of a big guy bridge, do you simply put the two layers together and cut out the hammock body, or is the bottom layer slightly wider. I suspect the bottom is slightly wider. ( maybe the wbrr does the same thing?).
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  6. #6
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    Yar, Kris is right, just didn't happen to see this post.

    Bonus points to him as well on using the 'tabs'.
    But besides future options or attaching a spare pocket or stuff sack- one of the simple ones is to 'lace up' a pad. I suggest using some shock cord for it but you basically can run it shoelace style through the tabs to secure a pad.
    It works better with the tabs up to stop the pad from moving on you... you can also combine that with a pad attachment system found on some top quilts too.

    The heat transfer is best when you lay on the pad, but a partially deflated pad can be laced up and flipped if you just plain old can't stand sleeping on the pad or it's warmer than you planned.

    Steve- feel free to email me if I miss a post but to answer your direct and implied questions:

    Yar- you can flip the bridge. Some folks flip them over for fun/change of pace, but no real advantage. One customer simply hated the pockets as the way they sleep they hit their face.
    As Slugger points out- disconnecting and reconnecting the ridgeline is the only real change you need to make. From there- just smooth things out with your hands, ease in slow and verify everything is lined up right with no twists and you're good to go.

    Both layers are the same cut of fabric. They are not differentially cut.
    The reason for this is that this is a 'STRUCTURAL double layer. Not a single layer with a pad sleeve.
    No space between layers= no differential needed. It's functionally a single layer.

    Brandon has confirmed there is a slight differential cut in his double layer Ridgerunners to account for the pad thickness. From there... you do get some structural value from each layer but that varies with pad thickness (or lack of pad) so I've always emphasized between the two designations from a design perspective; Structural double layer vs single layer with a pad sleeve. Two layers of fabric, but two different designs structurally speaking.

    To get a perfect double with pad sleeve- you'd need to know the exact pad you plan to use, the user weight, height, preferred sleep position and a little luck to get the differential cut just right so that some of your weight ended up on each layer. For a one off/DIY.. it's a possible but still pretty maddening exercise as everytime you change position you're technically loading the bridge a bit differently. And even if you know what pad you're using... inflation levels vary too so really you'd have to work with a foam pad.

    For a production bridge- everyone will lay in it differently, and will likely use different pads at different inflation levels so it's basically impossible to assume any real weight distribution between the two levels. More often than not... I call them single layers with a fitted bed sheet. Most describe using a pad as 'lifting them' up a bit, which is why the shoulder squeeze issues for some are alleviated with a pad.
    What happens from a bridge building perspective: The bottom layer is supporting the pad... which is supporting you. So the lower layer is taking all the load and the top layer is (structurally) nothing more than a fitted sheet or pad cover. Functionally; it does trap the pad in place so don't let me give the impression I'm pooping on anyone's bed here. The point of the explanation is to help you understand the construction only- not indicate better or worse.
    The only 'error' is those pushing the weight limit AND using a pad who think they are increasing the weight limit.

    As noted in another discussion we had- the original Big Guy Prototype used Hex 70 single layer. Which achieved a 300lbs user rating.
    A nice bump over the 250lbs limit other faced, but ultimately I went with double 1.7 Mountain Hybrid to achieve the 350+ rating.
    This was mainly a business choice. IE stock one fabric I can double up vs stocking two fabrics to end up with two versions of the bridge that were significantly different.

    There are a few times it would be nice to have all three options for folks in the Luxury/Big Guy lineup:
    Single 1.7 hybrid for 225 lbs and under
    Single Hex 70 for 225-300lbs
    Double 1.7 for those 250-350+ lbs.

    Keeping in mind I do still build the UL versions with 1.2 hybrid for lighter folks and you can see why I wanted to trim the Hex 70 out.

    That said, I've found that some very light folks really like the Big Guy Bridge. Including many female users well under 150lbs.
    At 230 ish and a side sleeper, I found the Big Guy too firm but I have bad hips/arthritis from years of humping lumber so I'm another outlier of sorts. (Which is where the Luxury came from actually).

    Quite directly-
    I'd tell you to try a Hex 70 single layer, but if you're cutting a small batch you can absolutely stack a few layers up and cut them all the exact same to make a few DIY versions in a few different fabric combos.

    The only other thing I'd encourage you to try would be a custom Ariel like FJR pilot did.
    The Ariel is closer in size to the Happy Medium, while FJR's bigger one would be the 'big guy' alternative.

    I'd never discourage anyone from playing around... but between Grizz, myself, and VW I'd like to think nearly every combo of variables has been played with so for DIY use I don't think you can go wrong there.
    Over almost a decade of prototyping Grizz and I independently ended up within inches of each other in the Ariel vs the Happy Medium as our 'IDEAL' bridge.
    Grizz being about 6'2" vs my 5'10" and roughly 185 ish vs 220 ish I think informed the differences.
    I don't want to speak for the master... but fer my part I found it pretty reassuring that over 100+ bridges between us there really was a near perfect design that came from the prototype pile.
    Last edited by Just Bill; 03-13-2024 at 11:03.

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