dutchovenjames, my eyebrow raised when you mentioned pinning the poles together. That is fine if you mean, "for storage". But when in use, I've read and been told that the poles need to have some twisting motion. When I first considered this design, I thought it would be so clean to just bolt the poles together. While I was making inquiries, part of the wisdom told to me was that the poles need a loose binding when deployed - holding a hammock.
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
I believe the reference was to pinning the pieces of each leg together, not the ends of the poles. From the photos, DOjames connected the ends of the poles in the requisite manner with plenty of looseness.Originally Posted by cougarmeat
copper-tube grommets as in the end holes could also serve as shims for the overlaps. Hard enough to be durable and slide freely, soft enough to be peened down to the micron level to make a good slip fit.
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I have made my tensahedron stand using all information shared on the forum. using the copper swagged pass thru's for connection. the only thing that has me now stumped is how to connect the poles together using pass thru's. How is the continous loop kept from allowing the pole ends together are the ends slipped over the ends or tied off? I cannot figure this out looking at pictures. I realize I am probably overthinking this. Help Please!
Does this help? https://www.tensaoutdoor.com/wp-cont...7386496_n.jpeg
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Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/
Perfect Thanks that is what i was thinking. Just couldn't picture in my mind. looks like i need to shorten my poles by an inch or so the holes on mine are 3" from the end. I looked for the soft grommets ,just couldn't find in my area. didn't want to drill a 3/4 inch hole in a 3/4 inch conduit. Thanks so much for the picture!
A hairpin works to thread the loops through small holes.
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Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/
Hi all, long-time-listener-first-time-caller. Spent the last couple of days reading through this thread. I'm convinced to build one of these for my tree-less back yard, collapsible for easy stowage in a vehicle. Strongly leaning toward EMT, although verdict is still out on 3/4 or 1". Thoughts are to cut 10' into 3x 3' sections (dispose of the extra 1' piece), and use 6"-8" pieces of dowel to sleeve over and connect sections (I believe 5/8" dowel will fit snugly in 3/4") with maybe some epoxy or a small thru-bolt to secure one side of each connection, on the lower side. For connectors at head and foot, I'm considering some short pieces (5-6 links) of appropriately-sized chain, again fixed to the end via some through-pins (aesthetically having the connection at the very end of each pipe seems appealing). For head and foot apexes, I'm thinking a tennis ball would protect against any tarp-related chafing and allow for the required wiggle room. I'm still thinking about the base apex connections, but I'm considering base apex will get a dowel plug for strength, perhaps the rubber foot cover and d-rings with a quick link to connect. If it'll work, maybe a 15" piece of mountainbike tire zapstrapped over the base joint for traction, cushion and protection.
Also,for those of you enamoured of the tensegrity philosophy, check this guy's blog page out. His structure would be amenable to a multi-hang.
https://serriedmultitude.tumblr.com/...ade-structures
I'm in the process of making a DIY version of this for car camping. It's going to be very heavy, so saving a few ounces is not that big a deal. I'd rather go for cost savings and strength.
I'm not sure what to use for the ridgeline / Footline and lines to the anchors.
How much stress is on those lines? I have some extra tiedown rachet straps I can use for prototyping, but when I replace those, what kind of strength do I need to build to? Would Paracord work, or would I need Amsteel? (And if Amsteel, what would be the best way to make that adjustible? (UCR? Whoopie Sling? ) I've made a continuous loop from amsteel, but nothing more complex than that.)
If straps are easier, thats great, but I have no idea where to start with those.
Highest stress is on connectors, so amsteel a good choice if those are loop style. Baseline tension can be high on hard surfaces, but paracord probably sufficient. Other line tensions are low. Ridgeline is unnecessary if your hammock has one. Webbing is suitable for all lines. Adjustable length is convenient but inessential if you don’t mind tying knots. Generally you adjust once for a given hammock and seldom again.
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Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/
Latherdome, If there is a formula that determines base width and end height above ground for a given pole length and ridge line length and desired hammock above ground height, I might be able to write a program that calculates what those dimensions/angles. Something like the hammock calculator for Tensa Stands.
Or, perhaps because there are mostly 3 basic hammock lengths; 10, 10.5, 11 ft hammocks and can apply a compromise (between 83 and 86% of physical length) ridge line length to those physical hammock lengths, then a simple table of stand dimensions for those common hammock lengths could be presented.
I will end up with a Tensa4, but before that, I may try one like wienerman (in the DIY forum) who made his out of 8 ft 2 x 2's. I know the 8 ft is a little shorter than the usual 10 ft metal poles that people cut back. But it seemed to work for him. No drilling - just 4 2x2's lashed together with cord.
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
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