Page 115 of 122 FirstFirst ... 1565105113114115116117 ... LastLast
Results 1,141 to 1,150 of 1213
  1. #1141
    Senior Member piscator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Uk
    Hammock
    CAMO DIY
    Tarp
    Sil Poly cammo DIY
    Insulation
    DIY Underquilt
    Suspension
    Webbing
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by vkennyh View Post
    Attachment 182945
    Attachment 182944
    Got my 1 in OD aluminum poles yesterday, I added rubber feet and rubber caps to the top. I also bought 1/8 in shock cord, going to run them through each pole and tie them down with 1/8 x 1in fender washers at the ends and then cap them over with the rubber feet and caps. Next step is to drill the holes but I wasn't sure how big of a hole I should drill to run the 7/64 amsteel. I was going to peen the holes with copper but I read that copper has a higher hardness scale than aluminum? How close to the tips do I drill, what diameter should I drill, and what do I use instead to protect the holes?
    Hi vkennyh how much do all the poles weigh as a pack? Looks very neat.

  2. #1142
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    What if, instead of grommets or copper tubing to prevent the drilled hole edges from cutting the cordage, If I just put an eye bolt in each pole? Then wrap the cordage around both poles, at one point in the wrap/lashing running thru both eye bolts, which would just serve the purpose of keeping the lashing from slipping up or down? Would that work? then just put a biner around the cordage between the poles?

    Or, whatever way of connecting the poles, would it be better to wrap the hammock around just one pole? Rather than connect to the cordage that is lashed around the poles? Seems like I read that somewhere. Or will it make no difference?

    Lastly, I might not have enough Amsteel(but I suppose I could use hammock straps to connect the ends of the poles, got plenty of that). But is there some other readily available cordage that would work. maybe in multiple wraps, like 550 cord? Something else?

  3. #1143
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Hammock
    DIY 11.5' (Hexon Wide 1.6)
    Tarp
    Hex Tarp
    Insulation
    DIY CDT Underquilt
    Suspension
    Web/Marlin Spike
    Posts
    203
    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    What if, instead of grommets or copper tubing to prevent the drilled hole edges from cutting the cordage, If I just put an eye bolt in each pole? Then wrap the cordage around both poles, at one point in the wrap/lashing running thru both eye bolts, which would just serve the purpose of keeping the lashing from slipping up or down? Would that work? then just put a biner around the cordage between the poles?

    Or, whatever way of connecting the poles, would it be better to wrap the hammock around just one pole? Rather than connect to the cordage that is lashed around the poles? Seems like I read that somewhere. Or will it make no difference?

    Lastly, I might not have enough Amsteel(but I suppose I could use hammock straps to connect the ends of the poles, got plenty of that). But is there some other readily available cordage that would work. maybe in multiple wraps, like 550 cord? Something else?
    I used eye bolts for my setup- and no issues so far

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  4. #1144
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    pryor,okla.
    Posts
    610
    Quote Originally Posted by knightshade View Post
    I used eye bolts for my setup- and no issues so far

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    What size eye-bolt did you use? how much do you weigh?

  5. #1145
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Hammock
    DIY 11.5' (Hexon Wide 1.6)
    Tarp
    Hex Tarp
    Insulation
    DIY CDT Underquilt
    Suspension
    Web/Marlin Spike
    Posts
    203
    Quote Originally Posted by ylnfrt View Post
    What size eye-bolt did you use? how much do you weigh?
    I weight about 175lbs, but have tested it to 300lbs.

    I would need to dig it out to be 100% sure - but pretty sure that I went with 3/8 inch stainless steel. It is likely overkill - but thought it safer.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  6. #1146
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    I used the eye bolts on my build today. I used 5/16, but, I am not attaching the hammock to the eye bolts. I just used the eye bolts to fill the holes rather thn grommets or something else. Instead of running the ropes or straps through the holes, I am running them through the eye bolt as well as wrapping around the poles. The main purpose of the eye bolts for me is that they provide a place to anchor the lashing so that it can't slip on the poles. That's my plan at least. Seems OK so far.

  7. #1147
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    OK, I finally cobbled 1 of these together, using mostly scrap materials already in the back yard. I did buy 4 five foot sections of 3/4" EMT from HD. If I am happy with this system, I may find a bracing system, with a larger diameter pole segment around the middle, to join these 3/4" segments together. But as it is, I just took the old trampoline legs that I had salvaged, which I have been using for legs of my top bar stand for 2.5 years. I don't know what they are made of, but they sure seem strong, and it turns out the 3/4" EMT fits inside these poles pretty snugly, Yay! In fact, it was when I realized that that I decided to quit procrastinating and build this thing. And I am indeed hanging, but as Shug says, I have some tweaking to do. And I hope some tips from the pros will save me some time and effort figuring it all out by trial and error. Luckily, I cancelled my plan to start with a WBRR or HT90, and moved from the patio to the soft grass.

    First problem: when I was first trying to raise it from the ground, using a ridgeline to connect the stand's ends(the Claytor No Net does not have one), I was having trouble finding a balance point without a tether on both ends. But, I suppose I figured it out by accident sometime after I hung the Claytor and tried it out. I noticed it was staying up at least with the foot tether on. I suppose that is because the foot end was a bit higher and tethered? I guess the foot will have to be higher if both ends are not tethered?

    So, I get in, ready for a taco/mouse trap. I sat with all my weight, all is well, YAY! I lay down, and boom, down comes the foot end! So, I was thinking the foot tether required a stronger stake, but still not all that much. Is that wrong? How much force is put on that foot end stake? There was a lot of rain on Fri, and no sunshine since. So maybe the ground was still wet. I think I looked almost as good as Shug in the mouse trap. Bright side: no witnesses. I was glad I put the cushion down. The grass was soft but the hammock and I would have been wet.

    Since I was trying to figure out things like correct foot spread for this hammock and such, I didn’t want to deal with questions about the stake. I tied off to a tree. After that, all felt very solid. I was NOT tethered on the head end after the 1st try, and never came close to it closing up on me. But mighty narrow. I was fine on my back or side, just very close to those bars. I would hit the right bar when getting in from the left. But once settled I would not hit them, just real close. So I’ve got some tweaking to do.

    Do I need a special stake for that foot end, an orange or boom stake? Even if the ground is dry? ( I was using a long round stake, the kind sold at WM.) Is there a certain spread between feet that is good to start with? Any other tips or thoughts on what I might be doing wrong?





  8. #1148
    cmc4free's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    2,160
    Images
    188
    The angle/tilt of your setup looks fine to me. Yes, the stand does need to be tilted (especially when unoccupied) if the head end is not anchored or if there isn't a counterweight hanging from the head end. Adding some kind of weight there gives a lot of stability until you get more confident. However that also leads to the next point. The tension on the foot anchor depends on the angle of the foot end guy line, the tilt of the stand, and how far off the centerline your center of mass is. Less stand tilt and closer center of mass to the centerline mean less tension on the foot anchor. Adding a counterweight for stability definitely increases that tension. Indoors (garage), I only use a foot anchor and no counterweight. Outdoors, I add some form of counterweight, else wind can catch your hammock and tip the whole shebang if it isn't occupied. I only use a head anchor line when using it with my Amok. Guying out a tarp that is pitched between the stand apexes also provides enough stability to keep it from tipping in the wind when unoccupied. I like the foot anchor guyline to be roughly perpendicular to the angle of the foot end poles. If you can avoid using a stake, and instead tie off to a physical object in the yard, all the better. If you do want to anchor in the ground at home, one of those big dog tie-out corkscrews does a good job, especially if you want it to be semi permanent. The large orange screw works fine for my turf without pulling out, but the tension on it depends on those variables above. I have dared to push the limits of my balance and tied the foot anchor line to an empty Yeti cooler (not the lightest cooler for sure) and had it keep me suspended. That was just an experiment though. The baseline spread largely just determines the sit height of the hammock and clearance of your head and feet around the poles. That may come into play more as you bring out the bridge hammocks. In your 90 degree, I'd recommend a level stand and anchoring both ends. Just easier that way for that style hammock.
    Last edited by cmc4free; 10-27-2020 at 23:20.

  9. #1149
    cmc4free's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    2,160
    Images
    188
    Toward the end I mentioned sit height as a function of the baseline distance. That's true for me, but I don't use an adjustable hammock suspension with the stand. I use these short Amsteel dog bones connected to the hammock CL's with carabiners. (For the Amok, I do use the straps and cinch buckles that come with the hammock, as that hammock doesn't have CL's - more like proprietary interlocking buckles to attach the hammock to the suspension.) But if you are using adjustable suspension, that's another way to change the sit height.

    Last edited by cmc4free; 10-27-2020 at 23:39.

  10. #1150
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Tupelo, MS
    Posts
    11,108
    Images
    489
    Thanks, CMC4free!

  • + New Posts
  • Page 115 of 122 FirstFirst ... 1565105113114115116117 ... LastLast

    Similar Threads

    1. Turtledog Stand vs. Bipod Stand
      By Vanner in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 5
      Last Post: 07-14-2018, 09:06
    2. Which Stand?
      By hk2001 in forum General Hammock Talk
      Replies: 12
      Last Post: 04-28-2016, 22:13
    3. Canopy parts stand (carport tent parts) (bipod stand)
      By lxzndr in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 3
      Last Post: 08-30-2015, 19:34
    4. XLC Stand Help
      By clash01 in forum Warbonnet Hammocks
      Replies: 6
      Last Post: 03-28-2015, 10:21
    5. titanium, stand-alone, portable stand
      By rosc in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
      Replies: 15
      Last Post: 10-17-2011, 00:00

    Bookmarks

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •