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  1. #1
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    Removing all hardware on ridgerunner?

    Happy Labor Day!

    I just bought a used DL ridgerunner and still dialing it in. Using MyerTech dyneema straps as suspension with jbok. Going to order ritalocura carbon spreader bars as funds become available. Going to need a tarp and hoping to go with a cuben as funds become available. Fund become available is my mantra. I'm using my sleeping pad and boy is it a cushy lay. I'm only 165 so not really putting too much weight on it. I am planning on using pacerpoles so not likely going to be able to use them for the spreaders but can use them with the tarp so no biggie there.

    My question for those in the know that have the ridgerunner, is it possible to lose all the hardware (triangles and corner pieces where the spreader bars connect) and just use knot to knot connections? Is there a way to use the spreaders without the hardware? Am I trying to cut weight too much? I'm coming from a Nemo Hornet 2P so that thing is light. Am I asking this in the right forum?

    Thanks...Dave

  2. #2
    I have removed most of the hardware from mine. Currently I have the triangle dogbone ends that I hang on Dutch beetle hooks. I have in the past had the dogbone ends connected with a continuous loop and used a beckett hitch with the straps. I have not and probably would not remove the corner pieces.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    To remove the corner buckles ( where the spreader bars attach) you'd have to unstitch the load carrying tape and then sew it back together again. Even if you had mad sewing skills I think I'd hesitate to do that just to try and save the minuscule amount of weight they are. This would compromise the engineering design and certainly void the warranty. If you wanted to go as light as possible I think Dutch has some titanium end buckles with which you could replace standard issue ones. Again you're looking at a sewing job. Warbonnet could probably switch them out, but not sure what it would cost, plus shipping. The carbon fiber bars will give you a bigger bang for your buck reducing weight.

    To paraphrase Andrew Skurka, "there's light and then there's stupid light." I think you're trying to cut weight in the wrong place trying to eliminate the corner buckles.

  4. #4
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    This is one of those instances where I trust the manufacturer to have thought out the hammock and suspension. I myself have not modified my WBRR in any way. I am, however, now following this thread to see what others have done.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Intimidator's Avatar
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    I tried the mod. The corner buckles are sewn on so tightly (stitch length) that it is borderline impossible to get undone. Way more trouble than it is worth, and if you do happen to get it off, you are going to need a high clearance presser foot and a strong machine to sew it back.
    -Carter

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  6. #6
    Senior Member TiedUp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoshooter View Post
    Is there a way to use the spreaders without the hardware?
    The beauty of the current setup is that the spreader bars fit snugly into the hardware. Without those corner pieces, it may be a pain to find a system that will work and be as reliable. I don't think those pieces weigh enough to jettison. But i'm all about ingenuity and improvising...if there is a solid way of doing it and it saves enough weight then i'm definitely interested in seeing it...don't want to be negative about it.
    I enjoy working for my heat...it seems to make my food taste better. -Richard Proenneke

    2TiedUp YouTube Channel

  7. #7
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    I haven't looked at the RR's corner pieces with the intent of removing them, so I'll only mention this blindly. I'm pretty sure the aluminum pieces could be cut with a hacksaw or whiz wheel if you're really careful. How to attach the dogbones then? I have no idea. Look up Grizz's ariel bridge for an idea of how an eye can be made in amsteel for the pole tips. Frankly, I wouldn't waste my time. If you really want an UL bridge, contact Just Bill, maybe he can help you out.

  8. #8
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sqidmark View Post
    I haven't looked at the RR's corner pieces with the intent of removing them, so I'll only mention this blindly. I'm pretty sure the aluminum pieces could be cut with a hacksaw or whiz wheel if you're really careful. How to attach the dogbones then? I have no idea. Look up Grizz's ariel bridge for an idea of how an eye can be made in amsteel for the pole tips. Frankly, I wouldn't waste my time. If you really want an UL bridge, contact Just Bill, maybe he can help you out.
    my earlier DIY hammocks used webbing on the sides like the RR. I would finish the ends by doubling back and sewing down, just as the RR does, of course not looped first into any hardware. But there's a loop 1/2" wide of webbing at each corner.

    The suspension triangle sides had a spliced loop, maybe 2" long. The sides were separate, joined together later.
    I'd thread the cord loop up through the webbing loop, then complete the lark's head by passing the working end of the
    side cord through the cord loop sticking up (or down) through the webbing, then bring the working end of the suspension side back to the apex of the suspension triangle.

    This forms a little gap where on one side you have the webbing right where it doubles back on itself, and the other sides cord that is leaving the webbing at the top and at the bottom. Perfect for putting the spreader bar notch in.

    I got fancier with the spliced loops on the Ariel because the sides of the suspension in that design are cord.

    I wouldn't tinker with the hardware on a RR myself. Better than even chance that as I'd be cutting the aluminum piece off I'd nick the webbing in the bargain....

    (LATER)
    Figured there would be some video coverage of something approximating this, found at t=251 in "GrizzBridge Revealed!"
    https://youtu.be/tGI0BbkTmCc?t=251
    Last edited by GrizzlyAdams; 09-11-2017 at 22:44.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  9. #9
    Member Sirenobie's Avatar
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    Inspired by Grizzly Adams et al., I recently built a couple of DIY Bridge Hammocks. After a bit of thinking about it, I decided to replace the aluminum connectors that we traditionally use to connect the ropes to the bridge hammock with a 'grommet' type connector system. Here are a few photos of the grommet connectors in action...

    20170907_130650.jpg
    20170907_130754.jpg
    20170907_130829.jpg

    Basically, I bought a 1/4" grommet kit (which included the gear needed to fasten the grommets) off Amazon and used the grommets as the holes to put through the 1/4 ends on the bridge poles (or in my case, hiking poles). On my bridge hammock build, I used 3/4 mule tape from Lowes for the weight bearing edges of the hammock. The thing I like about mule tape is that it is cheap, strong, light, available and easy to work with. However, with the more commonly used polyester straps, the grommets can still be used (see below for details). Here's how I worked the grommet connectors into my build ...

    1) Sew in your weight-bearing straps (either mule tape or polyester straps)

    2) For my mule tape build, I added some stitching to the tape in the loop to keep the strap weave together (that's the black stitching you see in the photos). I probably didn't need this but it made me feel more secure.

    3) Using the mule tape, I pushed the male end of the grommet through both sides the mule strap loops. Once they were through, I placed the female end on the male end of the grommet that was pushed through both side of the connector loop and, using the grommet tool that came with the kit, hammered down the the grommet so that it was tightly fastened all the way through both connector loops. Note: in the case of polyester straps for the connector loop, you would simply burn a 1/4" round hole through both both sides of the connector loops with a heated screw driver or other heated metal rod. The melted hole would be what you push your male grommet piece through.

    I have been using the grommet connector setup on this hammock build for over a month, including several night camping, and there has been no movement or issues with this setup. Obviously, making sure that your grommets are very securely fastened to the connector loops is critical.

    So, maybe something like this might work as a hardware 'free' solution...

    Thx
    Sirenobie
    Last edited by Sirenobie; 09-21-2017 at 10:42.

  10. #10
    Senior Member 1022's Avatar
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    I have been toying with a mod to loose the metal corners, cut the metal plates carefully & leave the strap and dogbone amsteel loops intact. I'm wondering in I can "larks head" the amsteel dogbone right onto the webbing loop, and have enough space to insert the spreader pole tip ( effectively making my older gen ridgerunner work like one of the newer models with no metal corner plate.)

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