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  1. #1
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    dynaglide-amsteel UCR suspension

    Im using dynaglide UCR suspension with prusik knot to secure tension and I like the setup very much. It is minimalist approach, probably the lightest suspension possible, and since I am lightweight as well, it holds me without any problems. However I noticed a lot of wear in the bury, at the place where rope leaves bury. While the rest of the rope is in perfect condition it seems that rope will fail at that critical point (mouth of the bury so to say) very soon.

    So am thinking about making bury part from thicker rope, say 7/64 amsteel while leaving the rest of the line in dynaglide. Since the bury part is relatively short I dont bother with gramm or two added weight.

    Anyone tried that combo, dynaglide-amsteel (bury) UCR suspension? What "law" of bury length should I apply; should I take thicker diameter (amsteel) or smaller dia when calculating bury length?

  2. #2
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    dynaglide-amsteel UCR suspension

    A fatter inside bury rope and a skinnier outside rope will grip better--may weaken overall--due to size differences, not sure.
    Say a 1/8 inside of 7/64
    A skinny rope on inside of a fat rope might not grip very well or at all--not sure.
    Some distortion of braid (is that what you call fraying?) is normal and will be ok---excessive distortion of braid at bury exit might be due to pulling free end at right angle to bury when tightening--always pull in line with bury when tightening.
    Also for insurance against slipping and dropping you to ground--it might be ok to tie a slip knot in innner rope about an inch from bury exit. I'm thinking it can only slip one inch and slip knot is too fat to enter bury and slip knot will not slip. One side of slip knot will pull slip knot apart--other side can't slip at all.
    Good luck Birdman
    Phantom, all tied up in knots...

    I would not skimp on a super short bury--a major cause of failure in UCR

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    Last edited by Phantom Grappler; 08-25-2017 at 08:42.

  3. #3
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    I am dialing in my sweet spot on a ucr SR made with Lash It and a prussic hold. Now i am curious if there is a way of modifying the ucr to a fixed SR once i have the spot set, or if i should just switch to a fixed SR?

  4. #4
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    It's your call---maybe keep it adjustable for a while or until forever? Lots switch to fixed hammock structural ridgeline when sure of length.
    I no longer use a hammock structural ridgeline (Kokomo suspension) its combined with a high tarp ridgeline that doubles as a hammock structural ridgeline.
    When I had an adjustable hammock ridgeline (a whoopie sling made of lashit or zingit) it somehow slid out of original adjustment length and I did not know it had slid. So I switched to a fixed hammock structural ridgeline.
    I ditched that when I got Kokomo Suspension.
    Have fun fiddling with your suspension.


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  5. #5
    Senior Member fallkniven's Avatar
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    I don't see that working at all. Dynaglide wore out quickly for me too, I stitched to amsteel as well, but all amsteel, not a combination. I don't see the different cord diameters working that way.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Pine Barrens Leather

  6. #6
    Senior Member GadgetUK437's Avatar
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    If you are keen to go minimal, ditch the UCR.
    Go with a single leader of dynaglide, to a double becket hitch, straight on to the CL on your hammock.
    Paired with a dyneema treestrap that will be bout as light as you could go.


    (@5:30s)

  7. #7
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    GadgetUK437, Dynaglide probably won't hold a becket hitch, and a double isn't likely to be much better; the size mismatch and lubricity are a pretty bad combination. In addition, the pressure of a single strand of Dynaglide around a Dyneema tree strap can dramatically weaken the strap; Dyneema doesn't like high compression. If you do use this method, you need to keep your tension as low as possible; if you use a structural ridgeline, make sure it's got very little tension on it when you're sitting in the hammock. That way, at least you have some way to judge how far you're pushing your system.

  8. #8
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    dynaglide-amsteel UCR suspension

    And almost as light and still very very light---
    A set of Dutch's blue dyneema straps or huggers with black racing stripes. I think Dutch has altered the name slightly. Tree straps around trees--tie becket hitch to continuous loop.
    And if you are worried it might slip
    I got the knot for you
    Form a larkshead in continuous loop and put strap through larkshead---this part can stay attached.
    Adjust strap and hammock to correct height. Finish the becket hitch (at this point all you tie is a slipped half hitch to complete your becket hitch) Set your Hitch by pulling on bunny rabbit ear and then pulling on suspension as it exits becket hitch.
    To make this a complete Carolina Becket Hitch tie a slip knot on the strap as it exits slipped halfhitch in the bunny rabbit ear on the side that does not move closest to the knot.
    Now if it slips--it can only slip one inch and slip knot can't pull through becket hitch and it certainly can't pull through larkshead.

    12 feet straps OK or you can go shorter to get extra light
    I got 15 foot straps--this stuff is very light
    I think it's 2.0--is that 2 grams a foot?
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Phantom Grappler; 09-17-2017 at 21:10.

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