Just got my new BGB from Bill a couple of days before Xmas. The Quilt Help 1 video mentioned a loop on the ridge line being for a 'chair trick.' What sorcery is this?
Just got my new BGB from Bill a couple of days before Xmas. The Quilt Help 1 video mentioned a loop on the ridge line being for a 'chair trick.' What sorcery is this?
I'll admit I've strayed a time or two to test out other bridge hammocks. Nope. I always return to Bill's BGBH. Still and probably will always remain #1 on my list. I just purchased a hammock hot tent and wood stove for winter hammock camping. So, I guess once I get that in my hands, I'll head out somewhere and test that system out with the BGBH. The true test will be the first week of February when I make my annual winter trip to my aunt's log cabin in the deep woods of northern NH.
Retired US Navy, 9-year colon cancer survivor. I believe my last words will be "Hold my beer..."
Bill's Big Guy Bridge Hammock in use this past weekend at Yates Place in NC inside a OneTigris hot tent (no stove).
IMG_4795.jpg
Has anyone swapped from the original carabiners/whoopie suspension to amsteel loops/Dutch beetle suspension?
Looks like you didn't need the stove on that hang, but great to see it worked out for you. Definitely an option I'll keep in mind when folks are asking for this type of fully enclosed tarp/shelter. I like things nice and wide open myself, but I know there are many who sorta miss the 'four walls and a roof' feel who will like this.Originally Posted by Slugger
Is this the model you went with? The 12'6" ridgeline looks sufficient to me but good to know the exact model so I can pass it along.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/F...d&ref_=ast_bln
Yar- pretty popular suspension swap. I ordered some buckles not too long ago and will at some point add some pictures to the website.
In the meantime:
The carabiners are standard with all my bridges now, but I do offer the option to swap them for Soft Shackles (dynaglide) on the lighter models.
For those under 250lbs I think that's your best option. You can still 'open' the soft shackle if you want to attach the chair trick or have a similar ease of use a carabiner offers while saving the weight and being compatable with the beetle buckles.
To the best of my knowledge: an amsteel soft shackle doesn't fit on there. (Maybe someone can chime in if they disagree, but I don't think the beetle horns are deep enough to hold the two loops of amsteel in the soft shackle and load them evenly)
So if you want to use amsteel:
One option is to direct splice a loop on, if you know how to splice this is pretty easy to do, and gives you a single point attachment you can't lose in the field.
The only downside: you lose the ability to use the chair trick since you can't detach the dogbones.
A second option is to use a FOLDED continuous loop. It's a little fiddly but you don't need to splice and don't lose the chair trick option.
Simply take a loop- feed it through the dogbone-ridgeline-dogbone like your carabiner, then fold the loop and attach each end to the Beetle buckle.
A rubber band can be used to keep the folded loop secure for transport so you don't have to rethread it each setup.
BONUS TIP- Either of these methods are the best way to use a becket hitch for those who prefer that system.
What you shouldn't do:
1-Girth hitch a loop on.
The girth hitch will compress the dogbones over time and potentially wear them out. It will also compress the adjustable end of the ridgeline so you lose that adjustment point unless you break the tension on the loop which can be hard after hanging on it for awhile. A soft shackle or carabiner also allows the end of the dogbone and ARL to move freely... which is by design and part of what adds a little more flexibility and stability to the bridge when you move inside it.. its subtle but that slight movement and rotation of these cords as you move alters the way the bridge responds and self corrects.
2-I also wouldn't suggest direct attachment. All hardware has the potential to wear out the cordage you attach. So while you could in a pinch attach the ARL loops, then attach one dogbone to each 'horn' of the buckle... you're setting yourself up for early wear.
Now it's a free country and I don't give my bridges away for free- so feel free to wear out your bridge and buy a new one if you choose. 'merica!
However unlike other end bar bridges my recessed bar models have an internal continuous suspension on each side that cannot be easily removed or replaced.
It's possible to do a splicing repair if you some how trash the ends, but it's not easy and if you know enough about splicing to attempt it... you know enough about splicing to just direct splice a loop or make a soft shackle and avoid the problem in the first place.
So long story short:
Hardware can and will wear out cordage.
Use an easily replaced, removable piece (soft shackle or loop) to protect your investment and you can work with any hardware or suspension you want.
Suspensions are highly personal and most of my customers have a system they prefer.
My basic suspension is to get folks started and is more of a UL minded one- IE not the easiest or most convenient perhaps but reasonably light, simple and affordable.
Last edited by Just Bill; 04-24-2023 at 10:28.
Ah... I knew I remembered someone had a better explanation.
Beginning shows the fray issue (though to be fair you can just have an annual loop swap to solve this if needed)
Middle- an excellent solution for hanging side by side that doesn't apply.
But at the end... (about 8:25 in the video) Jeff picks up an orange hand tied piece that would do the job. If you can't splice this is a very simple option and it seems to bear better on the beetle buckle than just a simple loop would with the bonus that it's an easy way to add that 'disposable' wear piece to the system for those who don't splice.
Yes - that is the one I purchased. And while I do prefer the open tarps for warm weather, the ends on this one open & tie back to allow enough airflow through the tent if it ends up being warmer than normal like this hang ended up being.
I did find a big issue. If using a gathered end hammock, there is enough room between where the stove has to sit and where the hammock lays where there is no damage to the hammock from the heat of the stove. Bridge? I think it would be too close to the stove because how it spreads out. I need to take a good look at it soon as the last hang was too warm to even break the stove out to test it. It was just an eyeball calculation.
Last edited by Slugger; 04-30-2023 at 15:34.
Hmm... no input from me on that issue.
That said- most folks looking for this type of tarp (asking me at least) are more looking at non-stove use.
Full coverage from bugs or prying eyes at the local state park type stuff. So still fits that bill.
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