After trying tarp poles on my HG Dyneema (Cuben Fiber) Tarp with doors, I still had fear of my bridge poles popping through the Dyneemaespecially on exit. I wanted to try out a design that might minimize this problem. I used RSBTR Membrane Silpoly PU4000 from their outlet as a trial. My goals where to create a tarp that was light, provided adequate coverage on the sides and ends (doors), and most importantly moved with the bridge to prevent damage (think overcover combined with a tarp). I decided on a 10 ft Square Tarp Build Finished 120” x 90”. This is simple to cut and sew. I used extra fabric to make a single tarp skin. Here is a graphic of the design as well as details on the build and project.
Bridge Tarp Plan.pdf
10 ft seems to be good coverage of about 6 inch on each end of the bridge. Width can very to your desire. I wanted enough so that I could pull the sides partially under the hammock to act as a semi undercover for my integrated underquilt. I could have made it a bit wider to get more coverage.
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There are actually 5 attachment points on each side as well as the ridgeline attachments. All use 1/2" beastie d rings (except the center ones on the sides which is just 1/2" grosgrain) and another layer of Silpoly for reinforcement using Seam Grip to attach the reinforcement patch.
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I think one of the concerns of tarps for bridges is that of puncturing the tarp with the extension poles on the head and foot ends. I utilize Grizz's Ariel design and marked out the area that the spreader bars would contact the tarp. I attached another layer of Silpoly to that area and sewed on a piece of 3" grosgrain at that contact point as well. I also sewed a 1" button hole in a 2" wide elastic that was then sewed over the reinforcement. The metal thread bobbin can then be inserted into the button hole to attach the tarp to the bridge so that the tarp moves along with the bridge. When getting into and out of the hammock you can easily remove the tarp from one of the button holes or just crawl up under the tarp. The tarp is staked down with shock cord on the tie outs so there is some give.
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The tarp can be attached using Dutch cinch buckles or Spiders on webbing or for the easiest and lightest go with a prussik using a Dutch metal quilt hook attached directly to the beastie ring.
I am overall pleased with the design. There is plenty of room inside and if staked out in porch mode you can sit up in the hammock without hitting your head. As mentioned with the addition of the end caps on my bridge it can be sealed up really well for winter camping. I live in Central Oregon and even our summers are very cool at night in the mountains so this should help with warmth if needed. There are openings at the ends so condensation should not be much of a problem. I you don't have end caps then you shouldn't need to worry about condensation at all.
I might consider a slight cat cut on the sides for the next build which I plan to try out of Dyneema. As always appreciate comments or suggestions to improve. Once question I can't figure out would be how to attach the tarp to a bridge that does not have the utilization of the sewing bobbin? I actually prefer to use just spreader bars that go through a small button hole in the hammock using grosgrain for strength as apposed to the amsteel on the Grizz. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by kitsapcowboy
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