Hammock Straps: Tack stitch vs. Box X stitch...and everything inbetween

[Bcarrawa]

I have been reading through some of the earlier threads about DIY suspension systems and the best stitch for shear strength and durability. I currently use a PP 1' webbing strap and have been sewing 210D Swan brand high tensile thread (which our machine can just barely handle) in a box X stitch pattern about 1' x 1' between loops. I realize now this should be spaced 2 or 3x the width, so implementing the correction now.

We have contemplated buying a bar tacking machine to handle all of our straps we sell commercially, but after reading some other threads it sounds like that may not be necessary. Im currently asking my partner which sewing machines we use exactly (a home Juki machine), and I know that will help. We believe we are trying to do an industrial stitch with industrial thread on a machine that may not be able to handle it, which is why we are considering a tack machine.

Someone recommended this pattern: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...8&d=1392267873

the science behind this "W" pattern with a box seems to run parallel with the length of the strap and increases the shear strength? Is that correct?

To be honest Im a bit more lost and confused than when I started, but if I can avoid a bar tacking machine without compromising strength then I'd be one happy camper.

Thanks in advance for the help, guys and gals!


Brian

[blackbishop351]

Brian.

How exactly will your straps be implemented?

I'm assuming you're sewing a loop in the webbing? If so, where/how will that loop feature into your suspension?

I ask because it does matter, quite a bit.

With my setup, I don't bartack, only box stitch. It's held just fine on several suspensions and a lot of hangs. However. When I hang, the load doesn't sit directly on the sewn loop. I pass the looped end around the tree, then pass the free end through the loop, basically creating a larkshead. So, the loop only holds the tension of keeping the strap around the tree, NOT the full load of the hammock. I can get away with a (potentially) much weaker stitch.

That's not to say that bartacking is stronger. There's a delicate balance in how/where bartacks are used, and a lot of debate as to whether they're necessary or even dangerous. I know they DO weaken material when overdone. It's also possible that a traditional box stitch is actually stronger without bartacking.

If you're using your sewn loop to support the full tension of the hammock, I would suggest doing some of your own testing. Set up a hanging scale and a come-along, for instance, and do break runs (tension the stitching until it breaks).

Not sure if this helps at all, but thats my .02.

[dscotthep]

bethandevans.com was a favorite resource of mine until it disappeared a few months ago. The internet archive still has a copy of it though.

"Sewn Webbing" starts about half way down the page. His research and testing is related to OCR jack line requirements for sailing, but he also discusses the sewing of climbing webbing and parachute webbing. While those requirements are much higher than what might be required of typical hammock suspension, his conclusions make for solid guidelines, and I've followed them in all my sewn webbing projects (about 32 pieces so far, for my own personal use and for the boys in my Boy Scout troop).

[Caminante]

I first did 4 box stitches of 1" a la diygearsupply instructions. Then I heard that bar tacks are better so I did that. Then I started doing 3 1" boxes with 2 bar tacks. They all held. The straps with 4 boxes are the ones that I use the most.

[Tacblades]

I used to bar tac but now this is how i do it simple quick strong and has never let me down.
I use tera 60 thread.



I hang off it no problem.

[Tacblades]

A quick vid
https://youtu.be/DhhmcyPKYGA

[jellyfish]

I have always liked a box & X stitch for strength on webbing and also like a stretch stitch on the machine, like I show here.

https://youtu.be/u1JL_e2SwkU

The zig zag bars that tacblades uses are essentially a stretch stitch in the direction that force is applied.

The XXX stretch stitch is reliable on all sorts of applications, though I think the W design would also be great.

The advantage of the X or W is that they spread more stitches per inch on the diagonal than when sewing parallel or perpendicular.

They all would work well.

[jellyfish]

What kind of loops are you planning?

[Tacblades]

I have always liked a box & X stitch for strength on webbing and also like a stretch stitch on the machine, like I show here.

https://youtu.be/u1JL_e2SwkU

The zig zag bars that tacblades uses are essentially a stretch stitch in the direction that force is applied.

The XXX stretch stitch is reliable on all sorts of applications, though I think the W design would also be great.

The advantage of the X or W is that they spread more stitches per inch on the diagonal than when sewing parallel or perpendicular.

They all would work well.

Woo hoo a new channel for me to watch, already learnt some good tips, i like the needle sizing method not seen that before

[blackbishop351]

I have always liked a box & X stitch for strength on webbing and also like a stretch stitch on the machine, like I show here.

https://youtu.be/u1JL_e2SwkU

The zig zag bars that tacblades uses are essentially a stretch stitch in the direction that force is applied.

The XXX stretch stitch is reliable on all sorts of applications, though I think the W design would also be great.

The advantage of the X or W is that they spread more stitches per inch on the diagonal than when sewing parallel or perpendicular.

They all would work well.

Wow. So hi-tech! I pretty much use one machine, one needle, one stitch length to do everything....

Just an FYI, I also box stitch, but only do one box (around 2" long) with a single pass on the edges. This has held for many, many hangs on several hammocks. That's not to say your way isn't stronger (I'm sure it is, after looking at it), but maybe that extra strength is unnecessary? In reality, there isn't a terribly high amount of tension on those loops. Almost all the force is transferred to the tree via the solid sections of webbing.

Anyway, I'm now addicted to your channel! Thanks! =P