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  1. #21
    Senior Member Tacblades's Avatar
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    Well these are hammock end 8 in larks shackles and smaller sinch shackles no jam
    Last edited by Tacblades; 01-21-2017 at 13:35.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member Tacblades's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    This may or may not spur someone's one's thinking...https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...Line-End-Biner .

    I have only used it on tarps so I don't know how it would do in a hammock suspension if used to connect the hammock to the tree strap.
    Love that, very hand for tie outs and tarp stuff i think.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member mrcheviot's Avatar
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    TB if you want to play some more - in your last pic you can also put a shackle like that at the end of a whoopie sling to attach to continuous loop at the end of the hammock. Instead of fixed loop, make the loop at the end of the WS grab that. I've been using a nacrabiner in this way at the end of my whoopies for years..

    Cool thing about working with cordage is there are always new uses & functions to discover, keep it up!
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  4. #24
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    Why not replace the CL on the end of the hammock with one of these shackles?


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  5. #25
    Senior Member Tacblades's Avatar
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    So this is what i have done now. The 8in ones are in the channel replacing the CL and just the knot sticking out on a short lead. So my UCR can just larks head onto the knot. Very easy and fast to separate the suspension if its wet from the hammock.

    Also due to the larks head over the knot in the channel and the knot itself it doesnt dissapear back into the channel.
    Last edited by Tacblades; 01-22-2017 at 11:04.
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  6. #26
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    This attachment method is pretty much the same, or at least closely related to the methods we use with the mini-ucr on a crl.

    For strap users, how about instead of larks heading through the hammock channel, just leave it as a loose loop (as redoleary suggested with his sewn mule tape) and use as a toggle through an msh on 2.2 kevlar.

    I find that for me, the locked-whipping-slider-knot is far less frustrating to use than the other soft shackle methods I've tried. The one fly in the ointment is that it would be quite a handful tying an msh, hold the hammock up, feed the shackle through the msh, all while keeping the shackle from pulling out of the channel. Perhaps a piece of 1/16 shock cord tied around the shackle at both channel ends would be sufficient to prevent pullout.

    Last summer MikekiM introduced to the mini-ucr thread, both the diamond knot loop (learned from redoleary vid?) and the locked-whipping-slider from the same Grizz vid johnspenn posted earlier. Both have performed flawlessly in that application and I see no reason why it shouldn't work as well here, with appropriate size cordage of course. I could be wrong but I believe TB's shackle knot has a higher load rating than the diamond knot, AND it sure is a whole lot easier to tie!

  7. #27
    Senior Member xtrm611's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacblades View Post
    Well these are hammock end 8 in larks shackles and smaller sinch shackles no jam
    Tac, what did you use for the whipping knot?
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  8. #28
    Senior Member Tacblades's Avatar
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    Cub cord its like a 2mm version of paracord
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  9. #29
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Great post.. reminds me of the post from last yes.. Paracord Soft Shackles.. I'll link it later.

    Tons of use for soft shackles and I've grown quite fond of the locked whipping knot.

    This is about as easy as Soft Shackles come. Great job. Next time I feel the need to play around with suspensions, this will be it.


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  10. #30
    Senior Member Banjoman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacblades View Post
    Well these are hammock end 8 in larks shackles and smaller sinch shackles no jam
    Good to hear no jamming. I've had to larkshead a couple of dogbones together in the field and had significant jamming. Had to use pliers to loosen.

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