Good luck,
RED
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Deep peace of the running wave to you.
Deep peace of the flowing air to you.
Deep peace of the quiet earth to you.
Deep peace of the shining stars to you.
Deep peace without end to you.
adapted from - ancient gaelic runes
No buttonhole, attached to the loop where my buckles loop attaches
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"I wonder if anyone else has an ear so tuned and sharpened as I have, to detect the music, not of the spheres, but of earth, subtleties of major and minor chord that the wind strikes upon the tree branches. Have you ever heard the earth breathe... ?"
- Kate Chopin
So... I tried this on one of my hammocks today. Melted a little hole for the ridgeline and spliced amsteel loops directly in the sewn channel. It definitely looks like it could work but I won't know until I take it out for a test hang this weekend. If it turns out to be a disaster I blame you lot
What's mildly funny to me at least....
I thought all of you did it this way. I figured that was the whole point of sewing an end channel so you could run the suspension (whoopie tail or continuous loop) through the channel.
It was only a few months ago (and a few years into it) that was not the case!
Yes, I noticed a difference immediately and unless I'm trying something extreme (like a small hammock, or an M10 (.67 ounce taffeta)) then I hardly notice the calf ridge.
I just put the Ridgeline over the CL. If you want it tucked inside- simply put it onto the standing end of the continuous loop or whoopie before you tighten it up.
GE with RL.jpg
While it's hard to do on anything higher than a 1.6 HyperD and works best with a 1.0 fabric... you can also try putting the hammock onto a Camp Nano 22 biner. If you put the gather on the short end it further spreads the channel and makes a slightly different effect. I found that useful when making say a 4'6 x 9' out of Hyper D 1.0 for a light and fast hammock.
I think Red linked it before... but if not there was a thread I recall running across where folks were sewing webbing/grosgrain into the sewn channel to further "bulk" the end up for even more relaxed gather while still loading the channel. I think folks were also simply putting tubular webbing into a channel (assuming it's big enough) with no sewing for the same effect.
Of course the point of the channel is to run the suspension through! The point of this thread is alternatives to pulling the two ends tightly after they are run through. And yes, there are threads about running pipes, etc... And Red has already provided links and I thanked him for that.
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Sorry-reread your original post a bit better.
I tried a 6", 8", and 12" CL similar to what Derek suggested- just feed through and clipped without larksheading them. Also tried a short dogbone but the burry from each loop gets in the way really of making them shorter than 10-12" so you're not saving much from a gram weenie perspective.
I didn't notice any improvement in the longer lengths without the use of a spreader of some sort... the hammock settles into about the same point regardless. I never tried the pipe method, though putting extra fabric or grosgrain to bulk up the channel does indeed prevent it from collapsing as much but I never took it to an extreme.
Partly wishful thinking perhaps, but in the small bodies- https://ripstopbytheroll.com/product...o-22-carabiner
Picture using this and putting the top side of the biner down, and the pointy part towards the side you lay on. I thought this was as good if not better but the effect was only apparent in shorter/narrow hammocks... but since I only used those for SUL stuff the 44g of biners wasn't worth sticking with it... that's a yard and a half of 1.0oz fabric I could have back to get a much better bang for my gram.
One thing I did not try as I wasn't familiar with the technique at the time was sewing the hammock to the suspension. In theory that would allow you to maintain some additional spread and should ease the center tension similar to cat cutting the ends.
I'd think a 12-14" dogbone would be ideal for this over a CL as you'd have a single line to "hit" while sewing it down. Again though without a spreader you'd end up with a bit of a V but it should emulate a cat cut in performance... but it might load the edges more than that method would so play carefully.
oh... on the ridgeline- I just attached it at the top (either to the biner or suspension piece I was using) rather than attempting to attach it at the hammock body.
Didn't have to pass it through the hammock in any way and on the shorter hammocks it sorta has a minor effect of making the hammock a bit longer in how it sags if that makes any sense.
It made no appreciable difference in the lay, and it make hooking the underquilt hangers on a little more difficult, so the larks headed loops are back
This is an 11' hammock, though. It would probably make a much bigger difference to the lay in a shorter hammock.
Pictures and norwegian text here: http://www.hengut.no/2017/01/20/nytt...a-lakrisbaten/
Last edited by Dingletrut; 01-23-2017 at 02:03. Reason: Forgot the link.
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