You're Doing Underquilts All Wrong. Get A Clew ;-)

**Caminante** · 01-24-2017, 10:43

I suppose it must come down to eliminating the runs in the side and end channels, and then adding a bit to the secondary suspension but using lighter cord. I suppose. It is counterintuitive, but I'm all in if it works.

**Pra4sno** · 01-24-2017, 10:45

Originally Posted by Caminante

I suppose it must come down to eliminating the runs in the side and end channels, and then adding a bit to the secondary suspension but using lighter cord. I suppose. It is counterintuitive, but I'm all in if it works.

Agreed. I'm into building my first clew setup as we speak.

**jellyfish** · 01-24-2017, 11:07

Originally Posted by Pra4sno

Agreed. I'm into building my first clew setup as we speak.

Post pics!!! This is exciting!!!

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**Pra4sno** · 01-24-2017, 14:37

Originally Posted by jellyfish

Post pics!!! This is exciting!!!

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Here's the question for everyone! I built a 40* CDT by seam-ripping horizontal tubes and then sewing faux baffles in. I want to attach lines in 14 spots on each end in a clew setup for even tension - connected to either a soft shackle or an aluminum climbing ring. The UQ weighs 14oz, and I believe that I can get away with using 1/32nd shock cord as the faux baffles make for very narrow tubes and this would evenly disperse the hanging weight.

If this does not work, I'm going to clip the 1/32nd at around 10" and bring them together in pairs to a trunk line 1/16th".

The goal is to eliminate the need for a draft baffles by spacing the clew lines at around 3" intervals. The 1/32nd shock cord is 1/3 the weight of the 1/16th and the CDT is notorious for losing loft when over stretched. I will be sewing to the inside differentiated faux baffles to eliminate most of the excess tension reducing loft, and the lightweight makes me think that I don't need 1/16th all the way around.

I also have an ultralight UQP in the works, but as of now I have it attaching with its own suspension.

Anyone see flaws I dont before I spend a few hours measuring, cutting, sewing, realizing mistakes, and repeating the same while muttering under my breath?

**jellyfish** · 01-24-2017, 16:05

Originally Posted by Pra4sno

Here's the question for everyone! I built a 40* CDT by seam-ripping horizontal tubes and then sewing faux baffles in. I want to attach lines in 14 spots on each end in a clew setup for even tension - connected to either a soft shackle or an aluminum climbing ring. The UQ weighs 14oz, and I believe that I can get away with using 1/32nd shock cord as the faux baffles make for very narrow tubes and this would evenly disperse the hanging weight.

If this does not work, I'm going to clip the 1/32nd at around 10" and bring them together in pairs to a trunk line 1/16th".

The goal is to eliminate the need for a draft baffles by spacing the clew lines at around 3" intervals. The 1/32nd shock cord is 1/3 the weight of the 1/16th and the CDT is notorious for losing loft when over stretched. I will be sewing to the inside differentiated faux baffles to eliminate most of the excess tension reducing loft, and the lightweight makes me think that I don't need 1/16th all the way around.

I also have an ultralight UQP in the works, but as of now I have it attaching with its own suspension.

Anyone see flaws I dont before I spend a few hours measuring, cutting, sewing, realizing mistakes, and repeating the same while muttering under my breath?

I would go for it. A CDT is very light weight, and 14 nettles is a lot of nettles. I would be shocked if this gave you problems.

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**leiavoia** · 01-24-2017, 17:10

I'm working on the same issue, Pra4Sno. So i'm going to share some ideas with you now before i publish the article later. Options:

Just don't sew so many attachment points. (there is no requirement to put them on the seams.)
Keep the first width-wise seam on each end to help distribute force. (untested. just an idea.)
Keep the same number of attachment points, but reduce the number of nettles. How do you do this, you ask? Imagine 5 attachments and 3 nettles: Take the first nettle and thread it through the first, second, and third attachments (in a sort of triangle shape). Similar with the second nettle: second third and forth attachments. Finally with the last nettle: third forth and fifth attachments. In theory, this reduces overall pull-force and also helps gather the quilt in on itself to reduce puckering. If you try this before i do, i want a full report with pictures! I will work on this next week some more.

**Campdavid** · 01-24-2017, 21:06

Interesting idea. I like it.

I made a PLUQ a while back. Did not fold it, made it full size. Channels on the ends to cinch and a shock cord on each corner to suspend. It's extra wide and comes up high on the sides. Overall, works fine but still has the tight narrowed ends where it is cinched (always hate that part).

Adding just one shock cord in the middle on each end and then tying it in as part of the suspension allows me to loosen the cinched part while keeping it tight to the bottom.

My UQ has a snap in Costco down throw. This extra line in the middle brings that extra weight up closer to the hammock.

This opens a whole new world of fiddling! Thank you.

**Theguywitheyebrows** · 01-25-2017, 06:55

Originally Posted by Foxpoop

Our method of using the mini lineloks allows for individual adjustment of the nettles. This might work for those who want to use an incubator or differential cut underquilt.

Aces! That seems like itd be great for those asym uq builds. Im thinking of setting up my 1 line mini-net idea and 1 line clew assembly permanently, but i kinda wanna check out how those kam snaps work, too. Im all for the permanent solution, but only if i like it so i wanna test out how a clewed uq feels underneath me.

**Theguywitheyebrows** · 01-25-2017, 07:00

Originally Posted by Campdavid

Interesting idea. I like it.

I made a PLUQ a while back. Did not fold it, made it full size. Channels on the ends to cinch and a shock cord on each corner to suspend. It's extra wide and comes up high on the sides. Overall, works fine but still has the tight narrowed ends where it is cinched (always hate that part).

Adding just one shock cord in the middle on each end and then tying it in as part of the suspension allows me to loosen the cinched part while keeping it tight to the bottom.

My UQ has a snap in Costco down throw. This extra line in the middle brings that extra weight up closer to the hammock.

This opens a whole new world of fiddling! Thank you.

I Seriously dig the snap-in down throw for the pluq! Thats genius! I made a great pluq (my own design) when i began the hammockry journey, i can find a down throw to stuff in it! Sweet! Thanks for the idea campdavid!