Thanks, I'm hoping to do something similar with masking tape. I've tried this and so far the glue in the tape has not been a problem. But it is not very sticky on the SipPoly.
I did get a great link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41Bn...ature=youtu.be that I will be trying soon. I think this solution will work for me.
Here's what I use to help me. It looks like the same stuff as in the video. It comes in different widths. It's a bit tedious to use, but I'm terrible at free handing hems and couldn't get a roller foot to work. It's recommended to use the "lite" vs. the regular stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Warm-Company-...steam+a+seam+2
I'm 4 weeks into sewing and have done several small projects.
So far I just eye ball it - once I get the first 3-6 inches done I find it pretty easy to keep the next foot rolled at my eyeball width that I started with and eye ball it from there.
That roll hem foot looks amazing! Maybe a dumb question but why do we not see small hems like that on hammocks made or tarps?
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I sew a line down the fabric at 1/4" from the edge. Light fabric will easily turn over the line of thread, giving you a neat guide for your rolled hem.
For the fabrics we sew with, you need very light presser foot pressure. What happens is you end up with differential pressure on your hem - the feed dogs are advancing the fabric at one rate, and the friction from the top foot causes the top of the seam to advance at a slightly lesser rate. A teflon foot can also help with this, and some machines have a middle setting to drop the feed dogs half-way.
On feeding the fabric, resist all temptation to pull the fabric taut either from the back or front to keep your hems in form. You want to let the feed dogs do the work, your job is really to just guide the fabric and keep it straight. Pulling will cause a gradual curve in your seam and will make it almost impossible to get a straight seam. If you find you need to pull it taut to keep the rolled hem in place, then either use wonder clips, use a basting stitch as mentioned to give it a natural folding point, or even iron it before hand against a straight edge. The cardboard form is a good solution, although I haven't personally used it.
I would avoid any tape whatsoever, as that's just going to collect sticky residue on your needle and eventually will cause issues. With silnylon, sewing down an single fold first and then rolling that can reduce frustration.
My free hand hem rolling has gotten better, but I've gotten quite good with the double rolled hem attachments that you screw to the bed and I now use them 90% of the time. Once you learn where the feeding edge of the fabric needs to be in relation to the guide you get perfectly straight and quick seams. They run about $15/ea, or you can get a set of them at a discount (check ebay, these are the ones that I use and I have a 3/8 from the same manuf).
This is a great idea! I'm going to have to try this for those one off seams that aren't worth setting up my hemming attachment. A while back bought a bunch of binding/hemming attachments from cutex sewing that screw into the machine base. These work best if I have lots of long runs as it is flawless. I still have to fold the fabric as it feeds through the hemming attachment but the attachment keeps my alignment and stitching on point as it feeds through.
The only downside to the attachment is that I rarely find it worth the setup time for those short runs here and there so I'm going to try this folding guide method. Slippery fabric is a real pain without mechanical assistance.
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Rolled hems on a curve, like the edges of a tarp, are an entirely different story. It can be quite difficult to avoid the twisting and gathering as it feeds through. The deeper the curve, the greater the challenge. I have just decided to grosgrain edge bind exposed curves with a binding attachment and while you do have to be careful to feed it properly, the end results have been far better than rolling for me at a negligible weight gain.
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