Drilling into concrete

[Dos]

ugh!

I slept in the hammock one night and just got up from a nap.
And the lag screw is starting to come out.

The length of the concrete casing is about 2 inches.
And the lag screw is about the same.

The ones I used into (wood) studs were about 4 1/2 inches.

Do you think lack of length is the issue? T-minus: is this what you are suggesting?
Do I have to drill deeper?

Camddavid:I'm not sure if I can be that elaborate on these walls as I am renting.
Do they come out later if you want?
And what is that tool? Where do you get it?

please.... I need to indulge you guys again.

Thanks

[gargoyle]

Skip the concrete. Hang from the ceiling, if possible?

Unless you drill thru the wall completely and anchor large plates to both sides (plus waterproofing), concrete is not a good hanging surface.

Or build a stand.

[Dos]

Skip the concrete. Hang from the ceiling, if possible?

Unless you drill thru the wall completely and anchor large plates to both sides (plus waterproofing), concrete is not a good hanging surface.

.

It is a solid 8 inch wall.
You mean to tell me people can't hang things from a concrete wall?
The kitchen cabinets are hung into the concrete.
Shirley, I mean surely, there must be a solution.

[T- Minus]

Deeper just gives more surface for the wedge to expand. A inch and a half may not have enough material to keep anchored if any micro cracks are present and grow. But you don't need to drill all the way to the other side. You want to have a clean hole so blow it out with a bendy straw or ream it with a small wire brush like you would use on a shotgun to get out all the loose stuff. If you use a straw keep your eyes closed as all the dust will come out in your face. Also don't over tighten the bolts it can cause them to fail, hand tight and 1/2turn till tight and no slack. They normally take about 1 1/2 to 3 turns after it is hand tight. Instruction should be on the box of Anchors.

[Dos]

Deeper just gives more surface for the wedge to expand. A inch and a half may not have enough material to keep anchored if any micro cracks are present and grow. But you don't need to drill all the way to the other side. You want to have a clean hole so blow it out with a bendy straw or ream it with a small wire brush like you would use on a shotgun to get out all the loose stuff. If you use a straw keep your eyes closed as all the dust will come out in your face. Also don't over tighten the bolts it can cause them to fail, hand tight and 1/2turn till tight and no slack. They normally take about 1 1/2 to 3 turns after it is hand tight. Instruction should be on the box of Anchors.

Alright. I will re do this.
I also noted that there were no bubble or tiny holes in the concrete whatsoever. At least to the eye.
I didn't blow it out quite like that, but I shall. And I really tried not to over tighten.
I only got 1 separately, so no instructions. Watched a You Tube video though.

Thanks!

will report back

[Dos]

ok.
The screw came out fairly easily - not by hand though.
But I blew it out with canned air and WOW! so much material came out.
I tried it with the 2 inch screw that the guy suggested from the hardware store.
But it came out easily.
So I used one of the older screws I had. Same threads, about 2 inches longer.
Seems to be holding. But I have put some pillows and a few blankets underneath me
for the night. lol

Will report back.

[gmcttr]

Yes poured concrete is an excellent substrate to anchor to provided correct anchors correctly installed.

From your description, I assume you are using a lead shield anchor and a standard lag bolt similar to this...

0484300_L.jpg

If the anchor fit in the hole is snug, thoroughly clean out the dust as recommended and tighten the bolt FIRMLY. It has to be tight to develop enough friction to hold.

FWIW, I would have been inclined to use a properly sized expansion anchor and drill bit similar to this....

thunderstud-anchor.jpg

[Dos]

it is exactly that set up GMCTTR.
I didn't want to over tighten it.
Wondering now if I tightened enough this second go around....
at least I am feeling a little bit more optimistic about this project now.

[Campdavid]

ugh!

I slept in the hammock one night and just got up from a nap.
And the lag screw is starting to come out.

The length of the concrete casing is about 2 inches.
And the lag screw is about the same.

The ones I used into (wood) studs were about 4 1/2 inches.

Do you think lack of length is the issue? T-minus: is this what you are suggesting?
Do I have to drill deeper?

Camddavid:I'm not sure if I can be that elaborate on these walls as I am renting.
Do they come out later if you want?
And what is that tool? Where do you get it?

please.... I need to indulge you guys again.

Thanks

Okay here's the setup....the wood you see is just scraps of thick plywood. I stacked and screwed them together to make space for the nut and washer on the back side of the eye bolt. You could also counter sink it or whatever. If you need more details or suggestions PM me.

The tool is a Ramset which is about $25 at Home Depot. See here for specifics http://www.ramset.com/about/howfastenerswork Get a box of Ramset nails $5 (they come in different lengths with washers on them already) and a small package of .22 caliber Ramset charges $4. The device uses the charge to drive the nail right through the wood and into concrete. The washer stops the nail from traveling completely through the board.

You'll need a hammer (the least expensive Ramset is triggered by the tap of a hammer rather than a trigger....perfect for your application), safety glasses and ear plugs (plus some for a helper if you need one). This device is easy to use but does go "bang!" and care to follow instructions is good.

Build your eye bolt "bridge" being sure to use a washer under the nut to spread the weight. Once that is built, load the Ramset, position the "bridge" where you want it, strike the Ramset with a hammer once (read and follow instructions) and the nail will travel through the board (bridge) and into the concrete. Follow up with a couple/few more nails and you are done. No drilling into concrete, no anchors, no screws.

Be sure you position everything right where you want it....you don't really get a second chance. :-)

When you move, use a hacksaw. With the blade flush against the wall, saw down through the wood and the nails. Leave the remaining bit of nail in the wall. Somewhat less noticeable than a drilled hole.

Now you can go hang cabinets and all manner of stuff on those concrete walls!

Again, feel free to PM me....I am happy to walk you through it over the phone too if that helps.

Good luck!

[swoody126]

BACK IN THE DARK AGES... the product you seek would have been made of SOFT LEAD in 2-pcs

as you screwed the lag screw into it it would expand and conform to the concrete while holding your screw

we called them LEAD SHIELDS, don't know if that is the correct term

the above pictured device isn't all that much different though it is a bolt not a screw

some guys would just use a piece of hardwood(oak or ash ±) cut it to fill the hole w/ a undersized hole in the center to guide the screw

the wooden plug would be driven in w/ a hammer and trimmed to the surface

once done the screw would be instaled thru the eye or ring being used to hang whatever and forced/screwed into the wood swelling it out into the concrete

this process worked best in SHEAR MODE as opposed to LINEAR MODE

GOOD LUCK W/ YOUR QUEST

sw